just picked up a 95 4dr SE 5 spd. coming from a s2k i wanna make the suspension tighter. i would appreciate all help, opinions, PICTURES,from all you 4 dr owners. i wanna lower the car with springs for now. also was wondering if changing the swaybars would make a difference. and changing the bushings also. i don't wanna slam the car just a decent drop. if folks have pictures please post em. now i know all the parts are compatable with the 2 dr cars but i wanna really hear from the 4 dr owners and hear how much of a difference the changes made..

thanks

karan

 

c'mon now i know there a lot of 4 dr owners around here who have done suspension mods

 

I am running sportlines, and Kyb's...Soon to have H&R's and tokico.

I also need to change out my bushings, when I do the upgrades.
I have a trunk bar, lower tie bar, and front strut bar..the car feels the same to me..

 

u have ne pics? what is the drop with sportlines like? y r u switching? did u have an alignment after the drop?

 

Here is a kind of a old picture, but i'm not riding springs right now. I use to ride on H&R Sport springs with tokico blues, that was a good set up for a close to stock ride and with a good drop. Right now i'm riding ong Tein SS, they're alot more stiffer then the H&R for sure, but it's not too stiff to the point where you have to turn back to springs, i like them alot. I also got an 22mm ITR sway bar for the back, it help alot..

 

hey im in springfield area lemme know if u need any help i have a DB8. I am currently running Ground controls/KYB AGX shocks, Typer R rear sway, Generic rear strut bar, generic rear lower tie bar, generic front lower tie, oem and skunk2 front tower bar, and Nar spec lower control arms. I just upgraded the wheels to 17s and the bounce i used to get with my oem wheels became a lot less.

 

check out the DB squad link to find gobs of pictures, my cars on there also

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1203330

 

Here are the mods I have made... It has made a significant difference in the car's handling characteristics. If I were to start off with any mod, it would be with the ZEAL B6 or S6 coilovers... they are absolutely phenomenal.








Hope it helps.

 

pics no workee

[QUOTE=Liquidgsr]check out the DB squad link to find gobs of pictures, my cars on there also

thanks for the offer...i just may hit u up sometimes...

need more responses...

 

bump

 

On my first DB8, I have H&R Coilovers and I cant be happier with thissuspension setup. The shock system has a preload, helping absorb differences in the road you travel on. It's the only setup that feels close to stock in terms of comfort.

On my other DB8, I have Tein Basic Coilvers. Its decent for the price and adjustments to ride height are easier than the H&R's. These are a tad bit stiffer in spring rate with no preload. More of a liner rate set up.

For the cost of springs and shocks, jumping into a full coilover is not a huge difference for a general setup. If interested, I'd be willing to let go of my Teins for a price relatively near the cost of new shocks and springs. They've been on the car for about 9,000 miles and not a leak or problem with them. LMK.

 

Hmmm k here it goes.

Setups- in order
1. Matrix coilover sleeves on stock shocks - i didnt know any better...but it wasnt that bad actually. I also added an Ingalls front camber kit in this stage.

2. Added KYB AGX 4-way shocks to the Matrix coilovers. I had this setup for almost 2 years. In those 2 years I added assorted tie/strut bars, as well as the biggest improvement in stock suspension, the ITR 22mm rear sway bar. I also had my car corner weighted in this setup and it resulted in the best aggressive handling I've had in the car. That may have a large reasoning because of the great Bridgestone S-03 tires I had at the time.

3. Koni Yellows with H&R sport springs (ITR Spec). As far as adjustability in ride quality and stiffness, this was awesome. Main problem was that even with the multiple perch settings of the koni's (5 for sp3 model), front being lowest, rear being highest, the rear springs still sat looower than the front, by maybe 3/4". ugly in my opinion.

4. Same Koni shocks but with neuspeed race springs in the front only. The rear still sat lower than i wanted it to.

5. Same Koni shocks but with neuspeed race springs all around. pretty level drop, but after 10 months or so, the koni sprang an adjuster leak (i got the shocks used from a friend, so they were pretty seasoned).

6. Sold the Koni's to a friend who put them on his racecar. So I went back to bone-stock springs/shocks. It was awesome to run stuff over and actually park over the parking blocks/curbs. Given that I got those matrix coilovers only TEN days after I got my car I never really drove on stock height. I did this time for about a month. Then I came up on the ITR parts. Next setup.

7. Now I'm on stock GSR front shocks, ITR rear shocks, LCA's, and ITR Springs all around. I'm damn happy with this setup, as it looks, feels, and handles awesome. I wonder why i didnt do this from the beginning. I kind of miss the adjustability of everything, but its not even a big deal to me anymore.

I've also had numerous different wheel/tire setups over the years, as well as getting my car aligned after EVERY suspension change (i highly recommend getting a lifetime deal. just in the last 6 months i've had my car aligned 4 times).

[EDIT] for setup 7.


Modified by Spec R at 8:46 AM 8/13/2005

 

Yeah, Spec R sure is a Spring *****... j/k

 

hey spec r , have any pics of ur current set up? what is LCA? i have read numerous posts where ppl have done the rear itr swap. what do you folks think?

 

Here's Spec R's recent post on the DB Squad thread...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are some pictures of the recent changes in my suspension...

Neuspeed Race with Koni SP3 Yellows





Stock Springs Stock Shocks





Stock ITR Springs, Rear Shocks, LCA's








ENJOY

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vvtli78k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey spec r , have any pics of ur current set up? what is LCA? i have read numerous posts where ppl have done the rear itr swap. what do you folks think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LCA = lower control arm. the rear itr design is lighter AND stronger than the LCA design in stock GSR/LS, and has higher durometer (hardness) ratings for the bushings.

enjoytheride posted up my pictures...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LCA = lower control arm. the rear itr design is lighter AND stronger than the LCA design in stock GSR/LS, and has higher durometer (hardness) ratings for the bushings.
enjoytheride posted up my pictures...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spec R: Maybe you can answer this one - What advantage(s) would a lighter LCA give to the driver?

I personally think if you rock a DB, you need to go down as low as functionally possible. Then again, its all preference.

Oh well, off to the Xterra ( <U>Spec R</U> - Finished that **** CLEAN. I'll show you pics of the install. hhahah)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Spec R: Maybe you can answer this one - What advantage(s) would a lighter LCA give to the driver?

I personally think if you rock a DB, you need to go down as low as functionally possible. Then again, its all preference.

Oh well, off to the Xterra ( <U>Spec R</U> - Finished that **** CLEAN. I'll show you pics of the install. hhahah) </TD></TR></TABLE>


Its basically unsprung weight, but the difference isnt as big as getting a set of super light volks or something. To Honda i suppose, its one of those things where if you save 2 pounds in 50 places, thats 100 pounds, on top of the whole unsprung weight deal.

Scraping driveway apexes and speedbumps doesnt count as functional to me anymore.