I am hoping to flare my fuel inlet and return hard lines in order to eliminate the rubber hose in the engine bay. I'm planning on picking up a flaring tool from harbor frieght and practicing on a spare hard line, but I'd like to hear some good "Know-How" before I jump in.

I did some searching and I seems like I, along with many others on H-T don't really know exactly how it works. The question has been asked often, but never really answered (atleast not well). I'd love to hear some good pointers, as well as any good links anyone has , especially learning just the basics. Right now, flaring seems like some sort of vodoo to me.

 

Every kit I know of usually comes with instructions and pictures on how to create he perfect double flare everytime...???

Really isn't any secret to it...just remember when cutting the lines to take your time...this prevents you from 'mushing' the line, and makes it easier to slide onto the tool's attachment

 

Thats great that the tools typically come with instructions, I think I'm going to get a line bender/flaring tool.

Anyone have a link to a step-by-step of the flaring process?

Also, fuel lines....what type of flare to use?

 

You definetly want double flares on fuel lines, i know i would. If brake lines need them, well, i'd do it for fuel too.

Out of necessity i had to buy a double flaring kit to redo the hardlines for my brakes, this is the kit i bought, http://www.otctools.com/newcat...d=253, cost me about $70 USD.

It comes with step by step instructions how to do single and double flares, very easy to use.

 

OTC is a fantastic tool company...

Our Trucking Company/Repair shop uses OTC tools for a variety of things, and they've never failed to dissapoint...

Step by step can't be any easier than in the directions...

You cut the line
Insert the appropriate size nipple into the line to ensure the cutter didn't 'bend' the line over...

Set the tool up for the size of line

Flip the metal plate on it's side (the one with nipples) and stickit in the tool...

Adjust the line to the proper height in the tool, and then clamp the tool..

Swing the top over, and crank her down...

Back it off, stick the nipple back into the line...

Crank it down until the nipple plate is flush with the tool....

Back off, and 'unclamp' the tool and TADA...line is perfect EVERY time


Just buy spare line and practice....

Fuel lines should always be double flared unless specifically stated otherwise...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AceAltima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Fuel lines should always be double flared unless specifically stated otherwise...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are running an aluminum line typically you will use a 37* single flare to adapt it to AN style fittings. This is generally the easiest and is easy to do on hard lines. Double flares are typically used on brake lines and OEM fuel and transmission lines. (Some models, not always Honda)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicross &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are running an aluminum line typically you will use a 37* single flare to adapt it to AN style fittings. This is generally the easiest and is easy to do on hard lines. Double flares are typically used on brake lines and OEM fuel and transmission lines. (Some models, not always Honda)</TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly is the stock hard fuel line on the car, aluminum? I assume I can by the hard line fittings (-an in my case) at any performance auto place that sells earls and those type fittings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly is the stock hard fuel line on the car, aluminum? I assume I can by the hard line fittings (-an in my case) at any performance auto place that sells earls and those type fittings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the car maker but Domestic cars use steel for their hardlines.

We sell an huge amount of stainless tubing for hardlines for racers, builders, and restorers. (John Force Racing, TRD, Saleen, etc..these are a few companies who buy from us). *This is not a sales pitch..just conversation*

 

Yea stainless and aluminum make great fuel lines, aluminum is cheaper generally. Most OEM lines are plain steel.

 

i've found that using a tool that takes the flashing off the inside and out makes the flares success rate, much greater...im not sure of the name of the tool off hand.

 

Here is a link to a page I wrote quite some time ago;

http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl4.html

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a link to a page I wrote quite some time ago;

http://www.chevelles.com/tools/ftl4.html

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're page is the first one I came upon when I started my searching. I was really hoping to find a graphic step-by-step of how the process works, but I think once I start its should be pretty simple.

 

I just installed a fuel line kit that a customer brought to me and it used a feral fitting to adapt the feed line to AN-6 end

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by airshifter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just installed a fuel line kit that a customer brought to me and it used a feral fitting to adapt the feed line to AN-6 end</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is exactly what I need to do, care to elaborate on what a feral fitting is, I'd be interested to see if it would work in my situation.

 

if u have put a manual boost gauge in then u have used one
The brass feral piece that goes around the plastic line to connect it to the gauge
They make an AN fitting that does the same and u can put a male or female end on a hard line
Look in a summit or jegs for around the aluminum tubing
Russell calls them "Hard Tube Adapters"
It says for AL tubing but I just used one a steal line haven't started the car yet but it seamed to work

 

another thing

Russell part # 641120 is a braided line that replaces the stock feed line from the filter to the fuel rail for Civics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by airshifter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u have put a manual boost gauge in then u have used one
The brass feral piece that goes around the plastic line to connect it to the gauge
They make an AN fitting that does the same and u can put a male or female end on a hard line
Look in a summit or jegs for around the aluminum tubing
Russell calls them "Hard Tube Adapters"
It says for AL tubing but I just used one a steal line haven't started the car yet but it seamed to work
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Perfect, I will look more into this. I've I can avoid using a flaring tool and simply use this feral tubing, I don't see a downside to doing that....sounds simpler to me.