i just put my built gsr motor in my civic last week and still cant get the thing to idle right, tried almost everything, put new sensors in, new tps, map, iat, and even tested the iacv, still gettin a 11.5 a/f (i have a wideband) or less air fuel at an idle then the car dies out, it seems like there is no air gettin into the motor it can only idle when i keep the throttle open a lil, my motor is a 83mm gsr sleeved forged bottom end about 9:1 compression, ls spark plugs for the compression, and a croweer built head, with everything else stock

 

Your getting too much fuel. Do you have an adjustable FPR? Anything for fuel at all?

 

yea i have the aem fpr and gauge fp is set at 40 psi

 

WHAT ECU R U RUNNING?

 

get that motor tuned.

 

idle air fuel controller?

 

stock gsr ecu, im thinkin its either the o2 sensor, idle screw or clogged fuel filter (has 4000 miles on it though )

 

ur goin to end up ****** your **** up, tune your car correctly, you should not be runnin a stock ecu

 

it says in the post right above u, STOCk GSR Computer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hockey27925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it says in the post right above u, STOCk GSR Computer</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he was saying is that you have to get your ECU tuned to give your motor the correct amount of fuel. You're not running a Stock GSR motor anymore, you're going to have to get a program that is setup specifically for that compression/head or get an ECU program like Hondata and have it tuned to make your car run correctly.

edit: Is this going to be a boosted car? If you're going NA why such low compression?

 

yea i also have the aem ems, but ur not supposed to put in the ems until the car is running correctly

 

o yea this will be boosted i am just breaking in the motor

 

Silly kids....you put in the EMS so it CAN get it running smoothly....lol thats what base maps are for until you can get it tuned properly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hockey27925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o yea this will be boosted i am just breaking in the motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Break that thing in with the boost on it. Read up on breaking in myths on importbuilders.com
Jeff's building my motor for me right now and I plan on breaking it in the way he says to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hockey27925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i also have the aem ems, but ur not supposed to put in the ems until the car is running correctly</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not going to run right n you may end up doing ALOT of damage by running your STOCK ecu. Obviously its not going to be running seamless untill you get it dyno tuned but you have to run a half way decent program if you dont want to blow your **** up

 

if your goin to run turbo, what injectors are you running right now??? if your not running stock injectors that is your problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your goin to run turbo, what injectors are you running right now??? if your not running stock injectors that is your problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

Word.

Run the stock injectors or get that damned AEM EMS tuned to run that motor. I'm pretty sure it cost you a pretty penny for that head alone, you don't want to mess that thing up.

 

yes i do have the stock injectors in there set to 40psi and i am going to mess around with that idle screw, now should i do it the way they say to do with the idle screw in the book, or just do it until it idles right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hockey27925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i do have the stock injectors in there set to 40psi and i am going to mess around with that idle screw, now should i do it the way they say to do with the idle screw in the book, or just do it until it idles right</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depending on what "The Book" is, I would probably go by "The Book".

 

check the manifold wires n the idle sensor,,if not then get a bigget ecu...good luck

 

the haynes manual says to get it up to operating temp, shut off car unplug iacv, start car keep on throttle so it doesnt stall at about 1000rpm then let it slowly die down to around 450-500 rpm by adjusting the idle screw and releaseing the gas pedal, then shut car off, plug iacv back in then reset ecu then see how it works, or ive talked to a bunch of people and they just mess with the screw until its idles straight

 

tried both ways but nothing worked out i can get it to idle at like 800 and steady but it still reads 12.3 a/f ratio,??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hockey27925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tried both ways but nothing worked out i can get it to idle at like 800 and steady but it still reads 12.3 a/f ratio,??</TD></TR></TABLE>

12.3.......Boost it!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nota-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on what "The Book" is, I would probably go by "The Book".</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol