I was testing my car for rod knock, pulling one spark plug wire at a time and my car just died on me. My first distributor (the one that cut-off on me) was replaced with one pulled from a running car and yet I still have no spark. What could be the cause of this? All components in the distributor have tested positive and work the way they should.

 

Any help please?

 

Confused.
Waht happened?
You were testing for rod knock by pulling spark plug wires and you pulled them off and the engined died?

Hmm... did you pull any wires off that did NOT effect the idle?
IF you pulled a wire off and the engine did NOT start to run poorly, then you have a problem in that cylinder and you need to inspect from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> have no spark. What could be the cause of this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Fuses? Broken t-belt?

 

Ok, let me be more clear. Sorry I wasn't my normal super explanative self but I was out at work. Let me explain what happened.

I was experiencing an odd flapping sound documented a little bit here - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1331738. After I determined my old distributor was shot and on its way to hell, I purchased a newer one in great condition for a great price from HT member smokey2.0. His distributor was pulled from a running motor and I have verified that the ignitor, coil, and all the sensors are within spec.

When I decided to run the check for rod knock by pulling the spark plug wires, I started with number one and worked my way with number four. I still had the odd flapping sound from the area of the fourth cylinder which included the cylinder, flywheel, transmission, and the distributor. I pulled plug four and of course the idle stumbled; as I went to put the spark plug wire back into the car the car turned off as if the key was being turned off. From this point on, I can't get the car to fire up through the result of no spark from the distributor. What is it that could be wrong?


Could the ignition switch have some sort of short as the starter engages, but the distributor isn't firing.

 

cam sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTECJay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cam sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE> Cylinder Position Sensor or Crank Position sensor? And if the numbers are coming back clean on both distributors what about them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I can't get the car to fire up through the result of no spark from the distributor. What is it that could be wrong?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
May have killed the coil. When you pull a plug wire off the spark goes to the path of least resistance. Sometimes it will short the coil out.

 

So, if both coils come up clean on the ohms test, replace it with another one all together?

So Ideas so far
1) Replace Ignition Coil - Ok, I will remove this from a D15B7 Distributor

I like educated ideas Anything else ladies and gents as I continue to watch Season 6 of Top Gear.

 

Yup!
I would think your coil is shot as well.
Work your way back from the spark plugs to the ECU to see what's failing.

 

Ok, well I will tackle the coil issue tomorrow in the morning. Right now I have gotten so tired that I will probably electrocute myself in the mean time. Just for reference sake, the fuses between the battery and the ignition switch are fine.

 

I changed the ignition coil, and I still am not getting a spark. Any more ideas?

 

ignition module/ignitor module, if you've replaced the coil, i would do this next.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by headhunter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ignition module/ignitor module, if you've replaced the coil, i would do this next. </TD></TR></TABLE> Ok, this poor B7 distributor is going to be naked by the time I am done. So for the tally I am on my second housing and working my way through a third set of internals.

 

After a full rebuild of the Z6 distributor internally, I was able to get the car fired up; now, back to the knocking sound I mentioned in the other thread.