Is there any trick to getting the compressor to kick on? This is the first time screwing with it after getting the swap done. I was going to put freon in the system and can't do it if the compressor doesn't kick on. Ideas?

 

not to cut in on your thread........BUT,

i've searched with nothing. Now I'm noticing the past couple days my compressor has been "clicking" and not sounding too good. It's been sounding like it was gonna go sooner or later. The compressor still works I believe but now blows warm air. How hard is it to replace and how much would it be? ( I would put it in)

 

Check too see if you need a refresh on freon. You might have a small leak or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudeman85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I'm noticing the past couple days my compressor has been "clicking" and not sounding too good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my compressor has always made an audible click when it cycles on and off. as mentioned, i would check to see if you're just low on freon before trying to replace the compressor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any trick to getting the compressor to kick on? This is the first time screwing with it after getting the swap done. I was going to put freon in the system and can't do it if the compressor doesn't kick on. Ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was under the impression that the compressor won't cycle on unless there was at least a certain amount of pressure in the system. i could be wrong though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my compressor has always made an audible click when it cycles on and off. as mentioned, i would check to see if you're just low on freon before trying to replace the compressor.

i was under the impression that the compressor won't cycle on unless there was at least a certain amount of pressure in the system. i could be wrong though... </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what i thought too. BUT if the compressor doesn't kick on then it won't suck the freon in.

 

I was about to post the same thing about my compressor til i saw this thread. i gotta 92civic and 91accord and both a/c's installed correctly but i get nothing. Freon 134 was put in and still nothing. i hear the audible click, but isnt the front plate to the compressor (clutch?) supposed to turn as well?Fuses are fine too, help anyone?

 

ok... i just read this:

"if the clutch cycles off, you can put the air conditioning switch on High and leave the car doors open to keep the clutch on and compressor working"

it was also noted that:
"The compressor can be kept on during the charging by removing the connector from the low-pressure switch (combination high-limit and low-limit switch on some models) and bridging it with a paper clip or jumper wire during the procedure."

the switch mentioned is located on top of the receiver-drier...

 

[Quote philadd]

"ok... i just read this:
"if the clutch cycles off, you can put the air conditioning switch on High and leave the car doors open to keep the clutch on and compressor working"

A topic for an upcoming "MythBusters" episode

"it was also noted that:
"The compressor can be kept on during the charging by removing the connector from the low-pressure switch (combination high-limit and low-limit switch on some models) and bridging it with a paper clip or jumper wire during the procedure."

the switch mentioned is located on top of the receiver-drier...

this (however) is true. Follow this suggestion.

P

 

yeah, i was questioning the 1st part. but i've noticed before in my car that the compressor stays on for longer intervals when the fan is set to high. i figure this is only useful for recharging a system that already has at least some pressure.

the door part... well... blame it on the hayne's manual that i read it in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[Quote philadd]

"ok... i just read this:
"if the clutch cycles off, you can put the air conditioning switch on High and leave the car doors open to keep the clutch on and compressor working"

A topic for an upcoming "MythBusters" episode

"it was also noted that:
"The compressor can be kept on during the charging by removing the connector from the low-pressure switch (combination high-limit and low-limit switch on some models) and bridging it with a paper clip or jumper wire during the procedure."

the switch mentioned is located on top of the receiver-drier...

this (however) is true. Follow this suggestion.

P

</TD></TR></TABLE>


receiver-drier is located where?

 

philadd

Fan speed on high will force more air thru the Evaporator Core (warming it up, causing the expansion valve to compensate by dropping the pressure on the high side) causing the Compressor to cycle longer.

The door trick has no effect on bypassing the low limit (compressor failsafe) switch. If Hayes had used several more words, they would have mentioned that the door trick was used to force the a/c to work harder by not allowing the passenger compartment to cool down

 

Freaker:

Here are links to details for your a/c set-up. Thank Majestic Honda, they're the only ones I know who publish an online illustrated catalog.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29

P

 

I'm 100% sure my freon is ok b/c I had it recharged last year with leak detector in it. Plus, last week when it was working the outlet pipe was freezing cold. So i'm pretty sure my compressor is shot. What do I have to disconnect/drain to take out and re-install?

 

Traditionally, evacuating an A/C system is done with a charging station. Not only because most stations can recycle refrigerant, but it's also illegal to vent refrigerant to the atmosphere and refrigerant also displaces oxygen (and if you do it in a closed garage (or you've got a buddy working under the car) and you vent, you could have some unconsious people on your hands!!!
Once you've no pressure you can take the compressor out (refer to either a Chiltons or Hayes Repair manual for proceedure) and install a new one.
I would suggest taping the open hose ends shut if the system has to stay apart for awhile. You don't want moisture and dirt getting into the system.
If the compressor hasn't been funky for long, you may luck out. Sometimes they circulate metal particles as they fail, crudding up either the reciever dtyer or the expansion valve.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any trick to getting the compressor to kick on? This is the first time screwing with it after getting the swap done. I was going to put freon in the system and can't do it if the compressor doesn't kick on. Ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>


yo freaker if u got no freon in system compressor will not kick on and u cannot put freon in it,,,,,,,,,,,,,like P-Adams said u need u need an a/c station or a set of gauges and a vaccum pump .,,,,,,,u need to evacuate system, put it under a vaccum then u can put freon in ..put at least 1 lb in it will cool good with that amount.

now if it does not work after that than it could be a lot of things ,,

 

"yo freaker if u got no freon in system compressor will not kick on and u cannot put freon in it,,,,,,,,,,,,,like P-Adams said u need u need an a/c station or a set of gauges and a vaccum pump .,,,,,,,u need to evacuate system, put it under a vaccum then u can put freon in ..put at least 1 lb in it will cool good with that amount."

- putting it under a vacuum pump is the only way to load freon and get the clutch to engage ? i dont wanna second guess, but does this apply to all year models or just later ones??

 

Either an A/C charge station or a stand alone vacume pump is required for installing the refrigerant initial charge, but they do more than that.
A very important part of any successful A/C repair is drawing the system down to 16" of vacume for at least a half hour. this removes any water (moisture) that could freeze while circulating and causing all manner of problems.
This applies to all year cars that have air conditioning.
Without that initial vacume, you'll only get about 1/2 pound of refigerant in the system (insufficient to safely ingage the compressor)

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


yo freaker if u got no freon in system compressor will not kick on and u cannot put freon in it,,,,,,,,,,,,,like P-Adams said u need u need an a/c station or a set of gauges and a vaccum pump .,,,,,,,u need to evacuate system, put it under a vaccum then u can put freon in ..put at least 1 lb in it will cool good with that amount.

now if it does not work after that than it could be a lot of things ,,</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not doing it myself. It is being doen with a evac system. It has the vacuum pump and the gauges. They have one at the bodyshop where i used to work. I'm not an a/c genious. But all this info helps alot. Thanks to everyone.