Window won't go up!
Hey guys...
We have a 94 Accord LX with power windows...The driver's side window has always been VERY slow. It generally woudn't go up unless the car was turned on. Sometimes it wouldn't make it all the way up and you would have to start it down low again.
Now it is stuck about 2 inches from the top. It will go down, but will not go any farther up than that...
Is this just simply a bad motor?
We have a 94 Accord LX with power windows...The driver's side window has always been VERY slow. It generally woudn't go up unless the car was turned on. Sometimes it wouldn't make it all the way up and you would have to start it down low again.
Now it is stuck about 2 inches from the top. It will go down, but will not go any farther up than that...
Is this just simply a bad motor?
it is not the motor cause window still goes down and up but not al the way most likely u got a bad window regulator........i cannot recall if u can get those separate or it comes as an assembly with the motor
It is possible for an electric motor to slowly degrade like this one has? I always thought they just died off...
I'll check into a regulator...Any other opinions?
Thanks for the reply!
I'll check into a regulator...Any other opinions?
Thanks for the reply!
$20 says its the swtich. happend to my car twice. honda charges around $100 (you get a whole new arm rest instruement panel), so start looking for cars being parted out
I'll say you should pull the door panel and check it out; My money says you need a regulator.
BTW in the future prevent these problems by spraying the window run channels with silicone, spray your other run channels before they wear out the regulators
BTW in the future prevent these problems by spraying the window run channels with silicone, spray your other run channels before they wear out the regulators
I'll say you should pull the door panel and check it out; My money says you need a regulator.
BTW in the future prevent these problems by spraying the window run channels with silicone, then run the windows up and down; spray your other run channels before they wear out the regulators
BTW in the future prevent these problems by spraying the window run channels with silicone, then run the windows up and down; spray your other run channels before they wear out the regulators
I think you can buy the regulator separate from honda but its cheaper if you go with a whole unit from like advance autoparts or something. But it sounds like your window regulator most likely.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$20 says its the swtich. happend to my car twice. honda charges around $100 (you get a whole new arm rest instruement panel), so start looking for cars being parted out</TD></TR></TABLE>
mmmm that could have been an easy 20
yo FW it is not the switch window goes down and up but will stop about 1-2 inches from top so the switch works what it is ,,,,,,,is that stupid little plastic piece at the top left corner of regulator that brakes off and keeps window from going all the way up and for that u got to get the complete regulator
mmmm that could have been an easy 20
yo FW it is not the switch window goes down and up but will stop about 1-2 inches from top so the switch works what it is ,,,,,,,is that stupid little plastic piece at the top left corner of regulator that brakes off and keeps window from going all the way up and for that u got to get the complete regulator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Botle Rocket War »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...The driver's side window has always been VERY slow. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Could be the window sticking in the run channel too. Quite common.
Could be the window sticking in the run channel too. Quite common.
I may be no expert...but,
On my '88 CRX I retrofitted the power window assembly from a CRX SiR.
Was a pain in the *** because I had to switch motors on each assembly and retrofit the switches ( that are attached the the door handles) (turned the Japanese driver side switch upside down on the USDM driver side and make it look all nice and work).
Besides the point,
Before I did the install I tested the motors...One was kinda slow, I took it apart and greesed up all moving parts (including inside the electric motor) with a Teflon impregnated greese that me and my pops use on the thermal plastic injection molds we work on. After i did that it works like a champ.
On my '88 CRX I retrofitted the power window assembly from a CRX SiR.
Was a pain in the *** because I had to switch motors on each assembly and retrofit the switches ( that are attached the the door handles) (turned the Japanese driver side switch upside down on the USDM driver side and make it look all nice and work).
Besides the point,
Before I did the install I tested the motors...One was kinda slow, I took it apart and greesed up all moving parts (including inside the electric motor) with a Teflon impregnated greese that me and my pops use on the thermal plastic injection molds we work on. After i did that it works like a champ.
Teawins21,
I tried that. When pressing up on the switch and pulling the window up fairly hard, it still wouldn't go...
We are going to search out a cheap switch today, if possible. From what you guys are all saying it doesn't sound like that is the problem though...Right?
Thanks a lot!
I tried that. When pressing up on the switch and pulling the window up fairly hard, it still wouldn't go...
We are going to search out a cheap switch today, if possible. From what you guys are all saying it doesn't sound like that is the problem though...Right?
Thanks a lot!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Botle Rocket War »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Teawins21,
I tried that. When pressing up on the switch and pulling the window up fairly hard, it still wouldn't go...
We are going to search out a cheap switch today, if possible. From what you guys are all saying it doesn't sound like that is the problem though...Right?
Thanks a lot!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know wether u take our opinions and advises but correct me if i am wrong why are u looking for a switch and then write down that from what we are saying it does not sound that the switch is the problem???
I tried that. When pressing up on the switch and pulling the window up fairly hard, it still wouldn't go...
We are going to search out a cheap switch today, if possible. From what you guys are all saying it doesn't sound like that is the problem though...Right?
Thanks a lot!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know wether u take our opinions and advises but correct me if i am wrong why are u looking for a switch and then write down that from what we are saying it does not sound that the switch is the problem???
It happened to my 92 accord the little plastic piece on the regulator that the cable reels in on breaks leaving slack in the cable. What I did was drilled holes higher up for moving the regulator up the same distance as the gap at the top of the window. The window wouldn't go all the way down anymore but I didn't have to pay for anything. Honda wanted $210 for motor and regulator. Like deserthonda says its the regulator. Might work for you too?
The cheapest switch in the city is $172 from the dealer. A window and regulator from a local store is $47.
The problem is totally intermittent. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. No matter what, it is slow. At the moment, it is stuck all the way down.
The window, while moving, is definitely not "tight" on it's track. Without help from our hands, when it finally get's all the way up, it is not straight. There is a small gap in certain areas around the window frame, because the window seems to be off the track.
When the window is down and not going up with the switch, even with tons of pressure from me or a screw driver for leverage, it will not go up. There is a quiet "click" from the motor or something.
I have no idea at this point how to narrow it down to something. I really respect the advice from all of you and all the responses, but few people agree.
It seems there may be more than one problem going on. Maybe my better explanation helps. I really appreciate all the help!
The problem is totally intermittent. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. No matter what, it is slow. At the moment, it is stuck all the way down.
The window, while moving, is definitely not "tight" on it's track. Without help from our hands, when it finally get's all the way up, it is not straight. There is a small gap in certain areas around the window frame, because the window seems to be off the track.
When the window is down and not going up with the switch, even with tons of pressure from me or a screw driver for leverage, it will not go up. There is a quiet "click" from the motor or something.
I have no idea at this point how to narrow it down to something. I really respect the advice from all of you and all the responses, but few people agree.
It seems there may be more than one problem going on. Maybe my better explanation helps. I really appreciate all the help!
Along with this topic, I have a 95 accord and the passenger side window will go down when I use the drivers controls, but when I try to roll the window back up with them the window wont go up. The only way that it will go up is if I use the passenger side window button... Should I check my regulator too?
Does a 94 have dirty contacts or this an updated model with a P.C.B. and all electronics to deal with, the days of disassembly and cleaning contacts are coming to an end????????
Arent these switches designed with child safety in mind, get your head caught in the closeing window and the over current shuts it off automatically, how does it know when to shut off when it is closed, there are no limit switches on the regulator. Pushing the switch and pulling as hard as you can wont make it go up.
Pull the door panel and hot wire the motor, if it works then get a new switch. If it is slow, lube the tracks and weather stipping or inspect for loose regulator fittings or warn track molding. The up and down uses the same wiring, it just gets reversed depending on what you want. They usually go down easier than come up. Gravity has nothing to do with it, but physics does.
Pull the door panel and hot wire the motor, if it works then get a new switch. If it is slow, lube the tracks and weather stipping or inspect for loose regulator fittings or warn track molding. The up and down uses the same wiring, it just gets reversed depending on what you want. They usually go down easier than come up. Gravity has nothing to do with it, but physics does.
Duane,
Your reply really helped me. I had overlooked that first thing... I should know better. I am a mechanical engineering major, I shouldn't be so stupid. Anyway, I really apprecate your help.
I really apprecate everyones help. The problem has been solved.
The motor has been "hotwired" (a local mechanic was involved). It does nothing at this point...A new motor, regulator, and gear is going in tomorrow. Hopefully we got this right and it will solve the problem.
How might I go about putting the silicon on the tracks of my own Accord? Is it mostly the outside molding that surrounds it as it goes up into the frame that slows it down? I really want to prevent anything from failing on my car.
It seems this is a very common problem on Accords and it's cousins. We had a motor die on a 98 CL as well, then this older Accord, and even as far back as my 89 Prelude I had before my 95 Accord. Is this all coincidence or is this a real problem?
Thanks again guys!
Your reply really helped me. I had overlooked that first thing... I should know better. I am a mechanical engineering major, I shouldn't be so stupid. Anyway, I really apprecate your help.
I really apprecate everyones help. The problem has been solved.
The motor has been "hotwired" (a local mechanic was involved). It does nothing at this point...A new motor, regulator, and gear is going in tomorrow. Hopefully we got this right and it will solve the problem.
How might I go about putting the silicon on the tracks of my own Accord? Is it mostly the outside molding that surrounds it as it goes up into the frame that slows it down? I really want to prevent anything from failing on my car.
It seems this is a very common problem on Accords and it's cousins. We had a motor die on a 98 CL as well, then this older Accord, and even as far back as my 89 Prelude I had before my 95 Accord. Is this all coincidence or is this a real problem?
Thanks again guys!
my 93 pass front door is doing the same well sometimes it is fine to go up and down but other times the damn window needs manuel help going up or down.....regulator for that too or does it sound like the motor??
round 2
lol sorry guys seems a lil different with mine
round 2
lol sorry guys seems a lil different with mine
If it moves both ways the motor is fine but it is possible that the motor is weak. Ask your parts store if they are available seperetly, change your regulator first and lube the rubber stripping tracks, if it is still hard to go up, be sure there is no binding, the regulator can be cocked a little bit, sometimes the mount holes are not round, they may be elongated to allow for adjutments.
For those looking in the archives one more thing that i forgot about the motor making noise, it is possible that the motor can be heard from outside the door before disassemble, it uses a worm gear in some instances, it will make a grinding sound, gears slipping. Sometimes it will be needed for complete disassembly to be sure of what is actually broke.
To clear your mind of thses problems what I do to be sure is simply dig into the job full force and diagnose it properly and completely. Take it apart and DO NOT put it back together. Take it apart, diagnose it, use rolled up cardboard to hold the window up in place, buy the new needed part ONLY and put it back together later today or tomorrow or when ever you can afford it. I know its hard to pick up fat chicks with your door panel laying in the back seat so just ask if it ok if she puts her extra luggage in the trunk.
For those looking in the archives one more thing that i forgot about the motor making noise, it is possible that the motor can be heard from outside the door before disassemble, it uses a worm gear in some instances, it will make a grinding sound, gears slipping. Sometimes it will be needed for complete disassembly to be sure of what is actually broke.
To clear your mind of thses problems what I do to be sure is simply dig into the job full force and diagnose it properly and completely. Take it apart and DO NOT put it back together. Take it apart, diagnose it, use rolled up cardboard to hold the window up in place, buy the new needed part ONLY and put it back together later today or tomorrow or when ever you can afford it. I know its hard to pick up fat chicks with your door panel laying in the back seat so just ask if it ok if she puts her extra luggage in the trunk.
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