I recently swapped in a d16y7 which is obd2 in my 95 4dr civic. I switched IM, alt., and dizzy to keep it obd1. Problem is car starts but when you put in gear and take off it'll go for a little then stall out. I checked to see if I switched and sensors into the wrong spot but they only reach to certain places so they are fine. I'm thinking maybe my old d15b7 ecu can't run the d16y7 motor, or it seems like it idles too low, but I didn't touch anything that would cause that. I adjusted the TB cable back to normal. What can I do? I need to fix motor fast before school starts.

thanks

 

bump for some help. My friend told me that for the d15b7 to work you have to switch the TPS wires that go into the IM. It does sound like a TPS problem though.

bump for some help

 

5 spd or auto?

 

try swithching the two outside wires on the TPS sensor

 

i doubt its the TPS, if you switched the intake manifold AND throttle body off your d15b7, then why in the world would you have to switch wires around? I've ran a D16y7 in one of my cars twice when switching in-between motors, and its not your ECU either, i ran the p06 (d15b7) with the motor both times. ALL i had to do was ditch the intake manifold, and i didnt plug in the crank angle or knock sensor, and change to odb1 fuel injectors, and switched alternators. THAT should be the only thing you need to switch over, besides the Distributor unless you re-wired the ODB2 distributor to ODB1, which also would be pointless.

I would reccomend checking the:

Distributor:
(entire thing, including the cap/rotor/ignitor/coil, if you notice any brown dust looking buildup, on the ignitor or coil thats bad, that means that the circut isnt strong enough, so its just shorting out to whats closest) only check the distributor IF you switched to the odb2 distributor. and make sure you've got a good cap and rotor, if its the d15b7 and ran fine with your other engine, then rule out the dist.

Plug wires:
The d16y7 plug wires are slightly longer than the d15b7. Altho i have ran a d15b7 with y7 plug wires, i doubt you could do the reverse of that

Plugs:
Does the d16y7 have good plugs? or are they all fouled up?

Fuel injectors:
Make sure you're using ODB1 fuel injectors, if you re-wired to run the odb2 injectors, check and make sure they are not fouled

Fuel Filter:
Plugged filter?

Sensors & wiring:
make sure you have ALL the sensors pluged in, this could be causeing your trouble, also make sure you have the harness back into the stock location, and resting structure, bent/pinched wires could cause faulty signals to your ECU....
Also, if you messed with the MAP sensor, make sure that you put the tiny rubber O-ring back under it when you put it on, i made that mistake, and the car ran like ****, and never threw a check engine code... it just bogged and bogged, and then TOOK OFF

Damaged o2 sensor:
Make sure you didnt mash any of those wires or the sensor its-self

BTW, how did you swap trannies? maybe you got some grease on your clutch disc, flywheel or PP... this would probably only cause slipping tho....


IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, you're fuct. get someone with some HANDS on trouble shooting experiance, but i doubt its something very complicated.

good luck

 

It's a 5spd<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i doubt its the TPS, if you switched the intake manifold AND throttle body off your d15b7, then why in the world would you have to switch wires around? I've ran a D16y7 in one of my cars twice when switching in-between motors, and its not your ECU either, i ran the p06 (d15b7) with the motor both times. ALL i had to do was ditch the intake manifold, and i didnt plug in the crank angle or knock sensor, and change to odb1 fuel injectors, and switched alternators. THAT should be the only thing you need to switch over, besides the Distributor unless you re-wired the ODB2 distributor to ODB1, which also would be pointless.

I would reccomend checking the:

Distributor:
(entire thing, including the cap/rotor/ignitor/coil, if you notice any brown dust looking buildup, on the ignitor or coil thats bad, that means that the circut isnt strong enough, so its just shorting out to whats closest) only check the distributor IF you switched to the odb2 distributor. and make sure you've got a good cap and rotor, if its the d15b7 and ran fine with your other engine, then rule out the dist.

Plug wires:
The d16y7 plug wires are slightly longer than the d15b7. Altho i have ran a d15b7 with y7 plug wires, i doubt you could do the reverse of that

Plugs:
Does the d16y7 have good plugs? or are they all fouled up?

Fuel injectors:
Make sure you're using ODB1 fuel injectors, if you re-wired to run the odb2 injectors, check and make sure they are not fouled

Fuel Filter:
Plugged filter?

Sensors & wiring:
make sure you have ALL the sensors pluged in, this could be causeing your trouble, also make sure you have the harness back into the stock location, and resting structure, bent/pinched wires could cause faulty signals to your ECU....
Also, if you messed with the MAP sensor, make sure that you put the tiny rubber O-ring back under it when you put it on, i made that mistake, and the car ran like ****, and never threw a check engine code... it just bogged and bogged, and then TOOK OFF

Damaged o2 sensor:
Make sure you didnt mash any of those wires or the sensor its-self

BTW, how did you swap trannies? maybe you got some grease on your clutch disc, flywheel or PP... this would probably only cause slipping tho....


IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, you're fuct. get someone with some HANDS on trouble shooting experiance, but i doubt its something very complicated.

good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

My old dizzy blew the same time the motor blew, bad ignitor. So I bought a fresh obd1 non vtec dizzy, I'll change the cap and rotor to see if that's the problem.

I'm running the old ignition wires from d15b7

Using injectors and rail from d15b7 cause I switched manifolds and reused the old one.

I doubt if its the filter we loosened the banjo bolt to make sure I was getting fuel and everything seemed ok.

I may have switched the sensors around but if it is switched one of them won't even reach but I'll try it anyway. And I don't recall seeing any O-ring when putting map sensor in.

O2 sensor is fine, just disconnected it and layed it to the side.

Trannies were swapped and clutch was bled.

Only thing I could think of is when I was testing out dizzys I forgot to put all 3 bolts on head and now when you plug in the dizzy to head though the O-ring it kinda sits a little tilted and not straight, maybe that would cause the cam to be bent and not open up valves.

thanks for help

bump

 

It starts up fine, but when you go rev it wants to die after the rpms drop. Then when put into gear and try to go it'll want to die and it'll only go a couple of feet before bogging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cKoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try swithching the two outside wires on the TPS sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Has this happen to you and did that fix the problem?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lil Corb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Has this happen to you and did that fix the problem?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

It has, but come to think of it, it was an obd2 integra harness in a eg civic with a b16, it is worth trying but since your using an obd1 harness and IM im not sure that thats the problem.

The car in question had similar symptoms and yeah that was the problem. Try it out though, who knows what TPS could have been put on the manifold previously. GL

 

aight thanks for the info