I am almost done with my B20vtec project. I used a type R head and a stock B20B block. We have checked the bearing and it is still ok. We will still be using this. I have also replaced my pistons w/ new rings.
I would just like to get your opinion if I still do need to "break-in" my engine before the dyno and if so how many miles would you guys suggest?
Thanks in advance!

 

Bump, and sucbscribing. But check out this link I found it interesting.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I'm running a very similar setup however I'm using alot more stuff and new clevite bearings and basically new everything.

 

Great info! Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampWht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have also replaced my pistons w/ new rings.
I would just like to get your opinion if I still do need to "break-in" my engine before the dyno and if so how many miles would you guys suggest?
Thanks in advance!</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes you do. You should seat your new rings. "How" is all up to you...various ways to break-in the motor and the theory seems to differ amongst builders. Breaking in a new build on the dyno is also common practice. Search the archive, there is probably hundreds of topics on break-in procedures..

 

I was at a machine shop in ky once that builds big dollar motors for drag, oval, road, ect. They had a 30k dollar ford 4 banger on the dyno when I was there that they were breaking in. The motor was started, checked for A/F, noise, and sensor check, all took about 30 sec. then they took the motor to 4000 RPM and held it there for 3 min. until the motor was completely heated and went threw a water cycle. That was it. They nailed it a few times after that, dynoed it, and shut it down.


Could be a good way or it might not be. Thats how they did it.

 

I forgot where I heard this, but it makes the most sense to me..

"If you break her in soft, she'll only like it when your easy on her. If you brake her in hard,she'll scream everytime you get on it".

The same applies for engines.
You want to force those fresh rings against the crosshatch and get a good seal.

 

To break my motor in on my Comp.4 car, We started the car with a base map we knew worked on the setup, added a little fuel for safety, backed the car out of one bay, and onto the dyno in another. I started doing small pulls in third gear from 3k-8k (full throttle) then letting off and allowing the dyno to slow the car back to 3k. We did this about 10 times, checked A/F, and started full pulls.

For our street cars, we do 3rd gear pulls on the highway or deserted street to get A/F's straight, then do a few burnouts. At the 25 mile mark, change oil and filter and she's ready to go! Haven't had any troubles with hard break-ins.

500-1000miles break-ins are not needed.

 

Guy that built my engine knows his **** 15yrs of CART and IRL experience building engines plus numerous other engnies, He built Joe Demmery's drag motors and some other pretty serious friends of mine that have yet to be really well known. But I asked him how to break in my engine and he just told me start it.

 

just started my break in, deciding to run some 3rd gear pulls on the highway or take it easy..anyway who built their motor recently which way did you do it and how does it run now?

 

any1? how did yall break in your motor

 

i built my motor about 3 months ago. as soon as i finished building it, i took it up the street at took it to 7K (B18B LS motor) I was tuning the car with my Wideband O2 and uberdata. best way to break in a motor is to beat on it as soon as u checked that everything is working properly: good a/f, no leaks, good oil pressure, no noise from engine.

we just broke in my friends LS/VTEC motor yesturday. as soon as we started it up, we checked for any leaks and went on the dyno and tuned it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampWht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a type R head and a stock B20B block</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will that piston to valve clearance be OK with the ITR cams?

 

I will be using Crower 403's. We have already checked valve to piston clearance through clay-ing.
You also have to deepen the grooves on your pistons because vtec valves are bigger than the b20 valves. Well, that's what we did...
Thanks for all your help.
Car will be out this week and will post my dyno soon!


Modified by ChampWht at 3:29 AM 8/15/2005