Charge piping-most effective coupler locations
I'm working on my charge pipe and I can't decide what the most effective location for couplers would be.

Of course couplers would be required at the TB (position A) and at the intercooler and turbo, but I would like to eliminate other connectors, hopefully down to 2 bellows to allow engine movement. Which positions would allow the most movement with the least binding? The lower charge pipe will be bolted to the chassis.
-Dustin

Of course couplers would be required at the TB (position A) and at the intercooler and turbo, but I would like to eliminate other connectors, hopefully down to 2 bellows to allow engine movement. Which positions would allow the most movement with the least binding? The lower charge pipe will be bolted to the chassis.
-Dustin
i would say less sleeve less guess of them blowing off...but the main thing is stress point avoid those spots...i remember back when i had my pipes made for an itr intake manifold swapped to a JG which sits lower i had to modifyand cut it and put a sleeve there temporary and that shti blew off almost everytime i boosted after i tuned it
ah, maybe my diagram wasn't clear enough. None of them are at bends.
a-throttle body
b-upper pipe, horizontal
c-where the charge pipe goes through the fender well
d-hot pipe, horizontal
e-where the charge pipe goes through the fender well
-Dustin
a-throttle body
b-upper pipe, horizontal
c-where the charge pipe goes through the fender well
d-hot pipe, horizontal
e-where the charge pipe goes through the fender well
-Dustin
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Remove coupling "B" weld instead.
Remove coupling "D" weld instead.
The rest you pretty much gotta use.
Remove coupling "D" weld instead.
The rest you pretty much gotta use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove coupling "B" weld instead.
Remove coupling "D" weld instead.
The rest you pretty much gotta use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he needs a coupler on D
if his signature is right he has a EF chassis, wich he will need one there anyways
Remove coupling "D" weld instead.
The rest you pretty much gotta use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he needs a coupler on D
if his signature is right he has a EF chassis, wich he will need one there anyways
Thanks for the input!
I was planning on welding E & C if i used B & D and visa versa.
I think I can get by with D welded, it may be tough to get in, but it should fit.
We'll see how it turns out i guess.
I was planning on welding E & C if i used B & D and visa versa.
I think I can get by with D welded, it may be tough to get in, but it should fit.
We'll see how it turns out i guess.
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