Well, I'll have my turbo installed soon. But what can I do to increase its performance even more on my 96' GS-R? I'm planning to run 8 - 10 PSI for now, so I don't want to rebuild my engine in terms of pistons, rods, blockguard, etc.
Do you think I should work on the fuel system? If so, what do I need? Better fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, hondata? Thanks for all the comments!

Here's a list of mods:
-------------------------------------------
Garret 54mm T3/4 T04E @ 8 PSI
HKS SSQV Blow-Off Valve
Tial 35mm Wastegate
Spearco FM Intercooler (3.5 x 6.5 x 17.5)
Missing Link
Manual Boost Controller

Airtex Inline Fuel Pump
Vortech Boost Dependent FMU fuel regulator

2.5" Dowpipe
2.5" CarSound hi-flow cat
2.5" Cat-back exhaust

MSD 6BTM Ignition Amplifier w/ boost retard
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Magnecor 8.5mm Wires
NGK 7 Plugs

Autometer A/F Gauge
Autometer Boost Gauge
Blitz FATT DC Turbo Timer

ClutchNet Stage2 Clutch


that's all folks.....




[Modified by Sh4rky, 3:39 AM 2/20/2002]

 

When and where did you get a drag 4?

art

 

Can´t see where he say Drag 4...he only has a DRAG 4 into 1 manifold.

Get a standalone and some bigger injectors


[Modified by austrian type-R, 9:44 AM 2/20/2002]

 

art, thats the same thing i thought too. but if you read closely... he meant "DRAG 4 into 1.... not just DRAG 4. he was referring to the manifold design, kinda like the way they describe a header.

 

What? You haven't heard? It's a brand new kit, just released today by Drag Inc.! The new Drag Gen4 Turbo Kit!!
The kit is the same besides the number change, and 6" increase in the piping but they needed to increase the model numbering to push sales higher and fight the competition - I heard Greddy 3 Series kits are giving them a hard break j/k

art is just in a sarcastic mood today I guess... hehe


[Modified by Sh4rky, 3:08 AM 2/20/2002]

 

Ahh, I see now a drag 3 into 1 cast iron manifold. Shows you how much I read.

The set up looks good, but i would get rid of:
-missing link
-Vortech FMU
-inline pump(replace it with walbro if only you are going stand alone)
-MSD 6 BTM(not needed at moderate boost levels)
-external coil
-magnacore wires.(Use OEM)

I would get some sort of stand alone like AEM, hondata, or some user friendly software.

 

dude...you have the wrong intercooler according to your description...

 

Well, I dont have to retard the timing w/ the MSD 6BTM if I don't want to. I can just leave the dial on 0. But, why would you get rid of the missing link? Wont the CEL light up without it? And, how would I manage my fuel if I take out the Vortech FMU?

 

When you have a standalone, the missing link and FMU is not needed. Beside a standalone you need only bigger injectors. Go with 440cc

 

Thanks for clearing that out, austrian type-R! So, I understand that until I get the standalone I do need the FMU and the Missing Link.

And what's wrong with the Blaster 2 coil and some aftermarket wires? Having them would help out ignition a little bit, right?

 

Arturbo means "keep it simple stupid"

The stock ignition system on Hondas is pretty good and not necessary above 350whp.

But I would keep it, cause you already have it installed. Until you go the standalone route you MUST use the FMU and missing link.

 

OK, thanks. So, without a standalone there's no way I'd be able to brnrfit from bigger injectors (like 440cc), fuel rail and FPR?

FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) is not the same as FMU (Fuel Management Unit), right?

 

The FMU is the Vortech or Cartech that rise the fuel press per pound of boost. Some of them are adjustable and some not.

The FPR is after the 4 injectors in the fuel return line and it is not adjustable. I have the AEM unit and it is possible to adjust the fuel press. The best solution is to have always the same fuel press. To have in all driving conditions the same fuel press level a standalone and 440cc or bigger injectors are necessary.

You can do FMU + FPR + 310cc + missing link + some electronic for fine tune (Apexi VAFC) + one stronger fuel pump on high boost aplication....or you simply do standalone + 440cc + FPR. You just have to pay a little more for a good standalone, but you have not to worry about future plans and your car is prepared for the best of the best in tuning. IMO FMU & stuff is prehistoric tuning and it was used in the 80`s. + the car reacts like a stock turbo car with a standalone ECU.

I think it is necessary to have an adjustable FPR to get the best tuning and hp#, either with standalone or piggyback s#it..

With stock ECU it is very hard to control bigger injectors than 370cc, because the engine is way too rich in the lower rpm. + you need an Apexi VAFC when you go with bigger inj than stock IMO. The stock fuel rail can deliver enough fuel.


[Modified by austrian type-R, 3:17 PM 2/20/2002]

 

Try the 70's..

art

 

I know it's a silly question to ask, but how much HP/Torque would I approximately gain if I got Hondata and RC 440cc injectors in addition to all my other components?

 

depends on how much more boost you would run..but theoretically you could safely run the amounts of boost you are talking about when combined w/ 440s and hondata.