Okay, i was trying to install my new coilovers lastnight, the front went well, but hte back is a whole different story. theres a bolt that goes thru the bottum on the strut to hold it onto the car, hah, well i took the nut off but the screw wont come ou,t i tryied screwing it out iwth a socket wrench, but it broke my craftsman wrench in half, so i then took a hammer to it, beat the living hell out of it, and it still wont come out, any ideas guys?

 

It's frozen to **** in there. Drill it out, or buy a new lca.

 

Yep, either frozen, bent or both. I'd at least have new bolts ready and potentially be ready to replace the lca.
Soak it in PB Blaster and hit it with a hammer a few times then see if it'll turn. That doesn't work then heat it up and see if it'll turn. Once you get it out inspect the bushing for damage.
throw some antiseize on all that once you're putting it back together to avoid future issues.

 

if you're going to replace the LCA's than just heat the bushings up and the bolts should come loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saxqtzk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going to replace the LCA's than just heat the bushings up and the bolts should come loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>He won't need to since he's replacing his old struts/springs with coilovers.

 

if you talking about the nut on the strut where the bolt go thru then, it welded on to the strut (shock).

 

if you look closely (once you get the bolt out) you'll see a hole where Honda injects some kind of loctite/pastic junk. you'll see that on a few suspension bolts. heat will certainly help.

 

WD 40 MY FRIEND, WD 40

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eternaljihad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WD 40 MY FRIEND, WD 40</TD></TR></TABLE>

...has got nothing on PB Blaster.

 

^amen brotha!

 

WD40 ****** sucks. Just makes everything a greasy mess. PB Blaster = the ****.

Either way, you will probably wind up breaking those bolts. Go buy new ones first.

 

I'm in the same boat, except my section of the boat says "Section For Dummies Who Sheered The Damn Bolt Head Off". Damn Honda and their stupid LCA bolts.
::EDIT::
For all you praising Liquid Wrench, WD40, PB BLASTER, yada yada, I found something that murders all those: KROIL. It's not even sold in reatail, but my dad's business used this **** on some power plant reactor core and he said it worked on bolts bigger than your hand that hadn't moved in decades. So BOO YAH!!!

 

u can also take the whole LCA out and have a shop a replace the bushings. new bushing+new bolts=problem solved

 

take out the bolt on the inner part of the LCA that holds it to the subframe.. might loosen up the tension on the other bolt

 

Try and get those lower bolts out with air tools first. That worked for mine. I actually managed to shear the head off one of the bolts when I was tightening them back on. Don't overtighten them when you're putting them all back together... luckily I had a spare kicking around.

 

I had a CX a while ago and I changed my struts, same thing happend. I ended up having to use a torch and cut the entire LCA in half to get it off. I then went to the junk yard and picked up some LCAs and installed it with that lol.

 

Their is too much pressure on the bolt you need to put jack underneath it and then hammer it out with a fat screwdriver from the threaded end.

 

This pretty much happens to everyone.

 

Take a moment and look at the geometry. Sometimes people loosen or not loosen a bolt that causes the arm to rotate enough to bind the bolt you are trying to get out into the metal sleeve. They also rust to the sleeve so spray it and use a jack if needed to straighten the arm and bolt so that it slides out.

 

an oxy/acetlyene torch is the only thing that will get it out. heat that bitch up till it glows and the rubber on the bushing starts to burn. wait for it to cool a bit, then start to turn it. loosen it a quarter turn, then re-tighten it. heat it up again, turning it a little more each time until it comes out. that "nut" you removed was actually tack welded to the shock.

if you use this process, you must replace the bushing and bolt. use anti-sieze compound on the bolt when you reassemble it.