Here's the setup:
SiRII B16A converted to OBDII using a P72 ECU
The shell is a 96 Civic LX Sedan

The problem:
P453 code gets thrown because the P72 ECU wants to see a fuel tank pressure sensor, but the 96/97 Civics with a D16Y7 motor don't have one.

The other problem:
In order to use a P2E ECU which ignores the FTPS, you need a 3 wire IACV instead of the 2 wire IACV found on most DOHC VTEC motors.

The other other problem:
You can't clear the ECU before getting it inspected because it won't pass unless it completes all it's checks.

The solution:
If your setup is like mine, you won't get the error code until after about 3 cold starts. So fill up your gas tank all the way, and then reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5amp radio/backup fuse. Take the car for about 3 short trips, shutting down the engine in between. When you have about 30 miles of driving in since the ECU was reset, take it in for emissions inspection (Assuming you don't have a check engine light)

At this point you should pass because you'll have all but the evap check completed (And possibly the catalyst check). For a 1996 vehicle you should be passable while missing two or less system checks.

Legal issues:
This should be perfectly legal because you are required to meet the emissions standards for what came with your car, but NOT REQUIRED to exceed them. However, I wouldn't mention it to anyone unless you have to.

Other fixes:
I spoke to a guy that claims he can get a P2E to control a 2 wire IACV, but I haven't verified this. (Also said it required wiring up the 3 wire IACV at the same time) If someone knows how to make this work please let us know.

Turning the car to accessory II, and counting to 10 before starting the engine. As far as I can tell this does NOT work.

Using a potentiometer to fool the ECU also does NOT work. (Pins D15, D10, D11)

 

Update:

The potentiometer works for awhile, but you end up with a 1457 error code indicating an evap system leak.

 

I have a 97 dx coupe with a 99-00 si usdm using a p2p ecu and stock wiring harness. it also has a po453,po450,and po505 codes coming up its a nightmare with a drag clutch in town with eradic idling. if u figure out how to fix this PLEASE POST i love my car it has factory manual steering u can feel the road so well hope u or me one figures this out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondapwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Update:

The potentiometer works for awhile, but you end up with a 1457 error code indicating an evap system leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

*Insert smart-*** comment*

I tried to warn you....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*Insert smart-*** comment*
I tried to warn you.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but now we know exactly what happens don't we?

 

glad we dont have in in sc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97dxSi motor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 97 dx coupe with a 99-00 si usdm using a p2p ecu and stock wiring harness. it also has a po453,po450,and po505 codes coming up its a nightmare with a drag clutch in town with eradic idling. if u figure out how to fix this PLEASE POST i love my car it has factory manual steering u can feel the road so well hope u or me one figures this out!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure what the P505 means, but the code book says ICS malfunction. (Ignition Control System)

The erratic idling may be caused by an incorrectly wired IACV. You need to repin your ECU harness to correctly control the 2 wire IACV on the B16.

As for the 450/453 codes, they are for the evap system. Unless you have emissions inspection in your state I wouldn't worry about these codes at all. If you need to pass emissions. Try resetting the ECU by pulling the power, and see if the code comes back immediately. If you can put about 30 miles on the ECU after resetting then you probably cleared enough readiness checks to pass emissions in PA where you may have a max of two checks incomplete. If it comes back immediately, you can try to potentiometer approach to fool the ECU for awhile.

 

does this condition make the car run rich? the evap problem i mean

 

If you're trying to troubleshoot your fuel mixture, go ahead and disconnect the purge solonoids entirely so the vapors in your gas tank never get purged into your intake manifold. Although typically the evap system richens the mixture.

 

its already rich dude, really rich at idle on crank up thinking about buying full msd system and hotter plugs (platnium) and maybe combustion will be better but right now gotta figure out how to lose the speed limter at 120 mph without buying anything else real expensive im aready over buget and cant outrun a ls integra on interstate! its just too sad any ideas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97dxSi motor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its already rich dude, really rich at idle on crank up thinking about buying full msd system and hotter plugs (platnium) and maybe combustion will be better but right now gotta figure out how to lose the speed limter at 120 mph without buying anything else real expensive im aready over buget and cant outrun a ls integra on interstate! its just too sad any ideas</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't waste your money on the MSD ignition!

Troubleshoot the 505 code with a Honda manual, and troubleshoot your idle problem.

If you fix those problems and still have a rich mixture:

Disconnected the purge solonoid, and get the following:
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Autometer Air/Fuel gauge

After everything is installed, take the car out and adjust the fuel pressure. At wide open throttle you should have yellow and green LEDs lit up at the same time on the Autometer gauge. You may need a new O2 sensor depending on how much rich mixture driving you've been doing. I'd just replace the sensor BEFORE the catalytic converter. This is also the sensor you should be hooking the A/F gauge up to.

 

I'd worry about getting the car running right before worrying about the 120mph limit.

I have an OBD-II P72 ECU which doesn't seem to have a limit. (I've had it over 140mph)

You may be able to disconnect your VSS so the ECU doesn't know how fast you're going. (This might throw a code)