my buddy works at the parts dept at honda...and i need new brake pads
i can get a discount if i buy it through honda..45 bucks...instead of buying it for retail at acura..65-70

for the front, i know the

1990 honda accord wagon ex shares the same front brake pads as the itr

but what about the rear..any info would be greatly appreciated..thanks

 

no one?

 

Just get some Axxis Ultimates.

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I think 00accord v-6 coupe shares the same rear pad, I got some last year. I have the part # at home, I can post it up tomorrow....

Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hollywoood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not 100% sure, but I think 00accord v-6 coupe shares the same rear pad, I got some last year. I have the part # at home, I can post it up tomorrow....

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE> ive heard the same..thx for the confirmation..im going to pick it up and confirm 100% tonight..thx again for the great response guys...i love this place

 

In Honda land, there are basically two rear brake pads. The small one is for civics, integras, etc. The ITR, Legend, CL, TL, RSX, EP3, and Accord all take the same rear brake pad. Yeah, that many. Check like AEM, theyll tell ya the same part for all of em.

 

IIRC the S2000 has the same shaped 'rear' pad.

I gave a used set to a fella at Watkins Glen a few years back.

 

Be very careful when using pads designed for a different vehicle. There are many cases in which Honda/Acura brake pads are the same size and shape, but their composition is different from one model to another. For example, they make more aggressive pads for sports cars, where performance is the primary objective, than for family or luxury cars, where noise and longevity are more important.

You also need to be careful when choosing aftermarket pads. You can get house-brand aftermarket pads at your local auto parts store, but they are likely to be the kinds of lower-performance compounds for the family cars, not the performance appropriate for the ITR. OTOH you can also get aftermarket pads that are designed specifically for varying performance needs, from brands such as Cobalt Friction, Carbotech, Hawk, etc, and use them on the ITR and sports cars as well as to upgrade the performance of your family or luxury car if you so choose.

Brake pads usually have a specific designation that refers to their size and shape, with a variety of compounds available on the market. The front pads for the ITR have the AP503 designation in many catalogs, and that designation is shared with the following models:

1997-1999 Acura CL Coupe 3.0L V6
1991-1995 Acura Legend Coupe
1991-1995 Acura Legend Sedan
1991-2005 Acura NSX
1998-2002 Honda Accord 6cyl
1997-2001 Honda Prelude Base
1997-2001 Honda Prelude SH

The rear pads for the ITR have the AP365 designation, which is shared with the following models:

1997-1999 Acura CL Coupe 3.0L V6
1997-1999 Acura CL Coupe 2.2L 4cyl
2001-2003 Acura CL Coupe 3.2L V6
1987-1995 Acura Legend Coupe
1989-1995 Acura Legend Sedan
1998-2002 Honda Accord 4cyl
2003-2005 Honda Accord 4cyl EX
1998-2002 Honda Accord 6cyl
1992-1997 Honda Accord Coupe EX
1994-1997 Honda Accord Coupe LX w/ABS
1993-1997 Honda Accord Coupe SE
1997-2001 Honda Prelude Base
1992-1996 Honda Prelude S w/o ABS
1992-1996 Honda Prelude SE
1997-2001 Honda Prelude SH
1992-1996 Honda Prelude Si w/ABS
2000-2005 Honda S2000

Again, these models may use a variety of different Honda/Acura part numbers, because the composition differs from one model to another. But the size and shape are the same, which means that they will fit in the ITR brake calipers.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In Honda land, there are basically two rear brake pads. The small one is for civics, integras, etc. The ITR, Legend, CL, TL, RSX, EP3, and Accord all take the same rear brake pad. Yeah, that many. Check like AEM, theyll tell ya the same part for all of em. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not exactly true. ONLY the models indicated above share the same rear brake pad size and shape (AP365). Other designations of rear brake pads used on Honda and Acura models include:

AP277 (Prelude)
AP374 (Integra, Accord, Civic, del Sol, CRX, Prelude)
AP342 (Legend Sedan)
AP504 (NSX)
AP537 (RSX, TSX, Accord, Civic)

And, of course, some Honda models have rear drums with separate part numbers for the shoes.

 

sorry to bring this back up from the dead and i've read everything in here, but i wanted to see if there was any other insight.

pretty much, i need a set for the rear driver's side, but i'll probably just replace both sides and keep whatever's left over as spare parts. if not, i may just get a cheap set to run on the street from the parts store.

more importantly and on a side note, how do you know when you would need to rebuild a caliper? when it "sticks?" when the pistons don't got back in? when the boots are torn?

what's going on for my ITR is this: 3 days ago, i starting hearing this really high pitched grinding sound from the rear driver side. it happened kind of an and off... but more on and it got worse 2 nights ago (louder), then it's died down since. it happens when i'm accelerating/decelerating and regardless if i'm on the brakes or not. yesterday, i jacked up the rear and when i tried to move the driver side wheel, it took a LOT to move it while the passenger side spun rather easily. i took off the driver side wheel and i noticed the inside pad seemed way more worn down than the outside pad. on top of that, about 5-6 days ago, when i'd put the car in reverse, i started hearing a slight sort of clunking sound and i hope it's related to the same thing. any ideas? need to rebuild the caliper? bad wheel bearing?

batoutahell suggested i take off the caliper completely and see if the disc spins freely or not and go from there. i'll try that tonight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to bring this back up from the dead and i've read everything in here, but i wanted to see if there was any other insight.

pretty much, i need a set for the rear driver's side, but i'll probably just replace both sides and keep whatever's left over as spare parts. if not, i may just get a cheap set to run on the street from the parts store.

more importantly and on a side note, how do you know when you would need to rebuild a caliper? when it "sticks?" when the pistons don't got back in? when the boots are torn?

what's going on for my ITR is this: 3 days ago, i starting hearing this really high pitched grinding sound from the rear driver side. it happened kind of an and off... but more on and it got worse 2 nights ago (louder), then it's died down since. it happens when i'm accelerating/decelerating and regardless if i'm on the brakes or not. yesterday, i jacked up the rear and when i tried to move the driver side wheel, it took a LOT to move it while the passenger side spun rather easily. i took off the driver side wheel and i noticed the inside pad seemed way more worn down than the outside pad. on top of that, about 5-6 days ago, when i'd put the car in reverse, i started hearing a slight sort of clunking sound and i hope it's related to the same thing. any ideas? need to rebuild the caliper? bad wheel bearing?

batoutahell suggested i take off the caliper completely and see if the disc spins freely or not and go from there. i'll try that tonight.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

my rear pads on the left side started dragging after my 3rd session at Expo on the second day. it was super LOUD even when I wasnt on the brakes, and I could feel it dragging while rolling the car slowly in the paddock. I didnt notice the noise until after I had my ebrake up like 2 clicks for a min or two after my session while I was speaking with my instructor. when I released the ebrake I noticed the noise. I dunno if its something with my ebrake or the rear pads. I took the wheel off while at expo and the pads still seemed to have some meat on them, but I didnt feel like taking apart the caliper and whatnot. it was too damn hot outside to be rolling around in the sandy paddock. the sound seems to have went away on the drive home but I havent driven the car since I pulled into the garage after Expo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you know when you would need to rebuild a caliper? when it "sticks?" when the pistons don't got back in? when the boots are torn?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are various reasons why it may stick. The most common is that the slider pins (the ones you loosen/remove to open up the caliper) may be sticking and need lubrication.

I've never had the pistons not go back in, I'm not sure why that happens.

I have my calipers rebuilt whenever the piston boots are torn or lose their flexibility and get "crispy".

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jomama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i starting hearing this really high pitched grinding sound from the rear driver side.
.
.
.
i took off the driver side wheel and i noticed the inside pad seemed way more worn down than the outside pad.
.
.
.
batoutahell suggested i take off the caliper completely and see if the disc spins freely or not and go from there. i'll try that tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The grinding sound could be that the inside pad is worn enough for the squeaker tab to come into contact with the rotor (or if it's really worn, down to the metal backing plate, that could be coming into contact with the rotor).

Ryan's suggestion that the parking brake may be partially engaged is worth checking too.

I don't know about the clunking.

 

sounds like Jim sent you down the right path.. see how things look with the caliper off.. if everything looks fine, I would try to re-grease the slider pins and also see if the piston will rotate back into the caliper like it should.. the parking brake could be a culprit as well..

the rear piston can seize just like the front.. I have rebuilt a set and it isn't too bad.. there are some good instructions on here..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also see if the piston will rotate back into the caliper like it should.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. Don't forget, you need to turn the rear pistons to push them back in. (And remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir so you're not fighting the hydraulic pressure.)

If you don't already have one, it helps to have a brake piston cube tool that fits on the end of a socket wrench, and whose pins fit in the slots in the edge of the piston. You can buy one at your local auto parts store. It looks like this:

 

your pads could be at the wear indicators... sliders may have seized or stopped moving as well if they are not completely seized... the piston may need some new seals/boots... could be a lot of things.

Quick story.

Recently on the lude, a rear slider pin seized.. to the caliper bracket. I obviously could not get it loose myself so I took it over to the friendly local acura guys who helped me out, the I went and bought new sliders, etc. The cause was the dust boot had broken long ago, grease got out, and then it just froze.

This caused a lot of noise as the caliper caused the pads to just dig in.. lovely looking rear rotors when I took them off (which was another fiasco.. hello sledge hammer!). Everything was VERY loud and obnoxious, sometimes punching the brakes would help the noise go away, sometimes not. Might be something similar on your end.

The fronts did not look much better, but nothing had actually seized.

"pushing" that rear piston back in (teg or lude, same basic idea) is a pain in the ***... omg.

 

good advice in here, thanks guys. i'll take a look at the pads, pins, pistons, etc. and see what i figure out.


Modified by jomama at 12:18 PM 7/1/2008

 

yea im guessing my rear passenger side caliper has siezed up, bummed out i cant use a GSR cali on an ITR setup....while driving slower, then to use the brakes it sounds horrible and embarrasing. lol....one small question i have is my rotor is only 3 months old...has no grinded lip on the edge of the rotor...though it lost all its metallic shine...it looks oxydized, maybe from heating up too much?....should i trash em or re-grind them or just get a new rotor along with the rear caliber?

and more importanly...were can i buy a rear 98 ITR caliper from? please help.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/places-buy-oem-parts-1433240/

 

With all this doubt you should just spend the extra $20-$25 at Acura to make sure you have the right pads on your car.

 

i ended up going to honda for a 1 rear ITR caliper and 1 rotor which Advance auto, Auto zone and pepboys didnt carry...i paid over 300$ and have to wait 4 days. sick, Dailying a car with a seized caliper, worn out rotor/pad...FTL

 

or you can just buy them at any Honda dealer: 43022-S84-A50

same rear pads for all Accords like 90-07. fronts are a Acura only number.

 

ok so after 4 days of waiting my local honda parts only recieved the caliper...guy mentioned the rotor wont be in till tuesday....

sometimes i feel five lug ITR isnt all thats hyped up to be when you gotta deal with these part hassles specially for your daily....i find it super unpracticle. idk how you ITR guys do it.
im so bummed out, i wish i had an EM1 right now : (