I am torn between the two. I live in Ca and I know I can get the typ r legally smogged but I would love the k20. Has anybody put in the k20 and able to smog. and about the power between the two. is the k20 worth the extra $$$. I am sure there is a lot of you debating this too. Anybody that converted from r to k please put your input. was it worth it to you. Lastly when it comes to maintenance is it a bitch to do in the R or K (changing belts, clutches. etc....) Thanks

 

http://www.k20a.org/forum/sear...27535

There are several posts discussing the ways to pass emissions in Cali with a K-swapped car.

As far as Maintenance goes, it is a little more of a hassle than a B-series motor because you have smaller space confinements to work in. The advantages are that you don't have a timing belt to change (K's use a chain), there is only one serpentine belt running your accessories as opposed to 3, and you don't have to worry about sparkplug wires or a distributor.

For the B18 vs. K20 debate: All I can say is that with a K-series you can be running high 12's, get 40 miles per gallon, and obtain OEM reliability because all this is coming from a completely stock motor.

 

get the k20 man in the new way to go well the best way to go now i know is going to be a little more expensive but is going to be worth it

 

I'm definately down with the K20(check sig), but I wouldn't exactly say it'll get 40mpg, maybe more around 32-34mpg realistically, and still that depends on how much you get on it. But all the rest of what Goatsterrman said was true.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueZen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm definately down with the K20(check sig), but I wouldn't exactly say it'll get 40mpg, maybe more around 32-34mpg realistically, and still that depends on how much you get on it. But all the rest of what Goatsterrman said was true.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A K20a2 in a 96 EK hatch got in between 38-40 miles per gallon traveling on the interstate to LSU for school. This was noted over a period of about 3 months.

This is the car the info was gathered from:










Modified by Goatsterrman at 12:43 PM 7/28/2005

 

Finally got the pics up. ^

 

**** TIGHT EK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goatsterrman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> For the B18 vs. K20 debate: All I can say is that with a K-series you can be running high 12's, get 40 miles per gallon, and obtain OEM reliability because all this is coming from a completely stock motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkknight619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** TIGHT EK </TD></TR></TABLE>

basically what I was thinking...

but I have no clue for the smog onda K20 in cali.. so BUMP for this.. good luck!

 

Nice EK!!

 

i think the two motors are similar only in power and reliability. aside from that, its apple and oranges. be prepared to fork over serious cash to PROPERLY dump a k series motor into that car whereas the b18 drops in perfectly and cheaply. tranny on the k is on the other side...there are a few things that make the install complicated but if you ahve the cash and the patience, go for K. only a matter of time b4 K takes over anyhow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by savageevo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and about the power between the two. is the k20 worth the extra $$$. I am sure there is a lot of you debating this too. Anybody that converted from r to k please put your input. was it worth it to you. Lastly when it comes to maintenance is it a bitch to do in the R or K (changing belts, clutches. etc....) Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've personally owned both a JDM B18C(R) and now a JDM K20A and have to say that there is a world of difference in power! True, the K is more money, but you don't have to go overboard with it. I'm personally just utilizing the stock JDM ecu and a cheapy header at the moment. K-pro and a nice header will add $2000 to your swap price, but those items are not a necessity to experience the power of the K and pull on an STI or EVO.

Maintenance can be considered identical if not easier with the K motors. One thing you don't have to worry about is a timing belt, as the K uses a chain. The Helms manual shows the maintenance schedule up to 160,000 miles, yet nowhere does it recommend replacing the chain during that span. Oil changes are less frequent; and as stated by Goatsterrman, fuel economy is increadible.

Don't get me wrong, if you've never owned a B18 swap, then I know you will be very happy with it, but if you are debating on spending at least 5K on the B18C(R), then why not spend the extra 2-3K for pure insanity and loads of potential with additional bolt-ons later down the road.

Just my $.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Karcepts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't get me wrong, if you've never owned a B18 swap, then I know you will be very happy with it, but if you are debating on spending at least 5K on the B18C(R), then why not spend the extra 2-3K for pure insanity and loads of potential with additional bolt-ons later down the road.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Totally agreed
I've owned both fully built B series motor.. One N/A the other F/I...
Main reason I chose the K-series is the starting point.
Header/Intake/K-pro and your nearly at 200hp....and not to forget the torque

I think its mostly your preference . I say go B series if you wanna go F/I ..
get the K if you wanna go N/A...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoon Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Totally agreed
I've owned both fully built B series motor.. One N/A the other F/I...
Main reason I chose the K-series is the starting point.
Header/Intake/K-pro and your nearly at 200hp....and not to forget the torque

</TD></TR></TABLE>

*cough* sounds like an h22 to me *cough*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*cough* sounds like an h22 to me *cough*</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, the H22 swap is close, but I don't believe close enough. Just searching for H22 dynos, you will see that people w/ 200whp H22's have had to go w/ cams and/or ITB's with lots of tuning.

Here's your typical H22 swap w/ I/H/E:


Here's the K20A w/ I/H/E (cheap header and only 2.25" exhaust) w/ stock ecu:

And like Spoon Si stated, this is only the "starting point".

If you at all care about handling as well, it is also important to note that not only does the K weigh the same as a B-series swap, the engine mounts produced by the K swap manufacturers out there all position the motor further towards the firewall than the stock B-series position (i.e. better weight bias for your Civic).

 

nice hatch what is ur personall best with the k20, which trak was it done at state capital or noproblem.

 

The pics above are from state capital.

 

dope hatch!

 

What was ur best time there, thats the track i go to when im home and was interested in a kswap and wanted to know about what to expect as far as times on that track.