according to the helms manual, when reinstalling the spring/shock assembly, to loosely put in the bolts that were undone, jack up the suspension corner until the car is off the jack stands, then tighten the bolts.

I was just wondering what the purpose of this is, because no one i have seen that has changed springs has done this.

 

So that your bushings don't bind after all the bolts are torqued. It simulates the attitude of your car under normal load.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TPB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So that your bushings don't bind after all the bolts are torqued. It simulates the attitude of your car under normal load.</TD></TR></TABLE>



also, the prevention of binding prevents the bushings from being tweaked, which causes them to squeak. this is especially important in the front control arm nuts/bolts.

 

the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.

if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.

if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So is this necessary if you are using all poly bushings?

 

aftermarket urethane bushings dont have this problem since the inner sleeve can rotate freely inside (which also causes the squeaks). but they have other issues of their own i dont need to go into now.

 

Good thread. I will do this next time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aftermarket urethane bushings dont have this problem since the inner sleeve can rotate freely inside (which also causes the squeaks). but they have other issues of their own i dont need to go into now.</TD></TR></TABLE>I know some tuners say "stick to stock". Yet everyone seems to be hawking the poly bushings. Are you a 'stock' man?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know some tuners say "stick to stock". Yet everyone seems to be hawking the poly bushings. Are you a 'stock' man?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He might just be a "screw polyurethane... it's all about heim-joint/pillowball connection on every single joint on chassis" man .. lol

jk. that's how a buddy at work who also has a race shop is .. lol.


and holy crap.... no wonder i notice my front right side transverse link bushing isn't sitting the same as my front left...

just wondering, would it be okay to loosen completely, and then re-tighten after jacking up the arm after already installing without the correct method?


Modified by The HamsterBall at 10:55 PM 7/27/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The HamsterBall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just wondering, would it be okay to loosen completely, and then re-tighten after jacking up the arm after already installing without the correct method?


Modified by The HamsterBall at 10:55 PM 7/27/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

it hasnt caused any problems for me...

 

yeah. im a stock man. stock springs even. ive been through all types of spring rates from eibach prokits and competition road race rates (450/900) (i was actually racing at the time) my mugen rear swaybar and stock springs are enough for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah. im a stock man. stock springs even. ive been through all types of spring rates from eibach prokits and competition road race rates (450/900) (i was actually racing at the time) my mugen rear swaybar and stock springs are enough for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i recently went back to stock springs and shocks too, and was pleasantly surpised how my itr sway bars and various other tie bars greatly improved the handling (over stock sway bars and no tie bars).