for example, I have the Venom manifold. More then likely, the air intake temp sensor will just be mounted in a runner, and the EGR blocked off. Question being, what does everyone do about the Idle air control valve? Where did you mount it? Also, how messed up will the car idle without it, or is their any alternative ideas? Thanks

 

i dont use one IACV but most people who drive on the street would need one. After the car warms up it runs fine so its not a really big deal. In colder weather though it becomes a pain to idle the car.

 

You could make a small manifold where the fast idle valve normally goes and hook up the IAC there..... The air-port would go to one side of the IAC and the other to the other side of the IAC. Then, you could hide the IAC somewhere and use hoses to connect them up.... I saw it on a friend's car....

 

i dont really understand what your saying, if you have any pics, that would be great.

 

i'd put the iat on the ic pipe just before the tb... as for the iac.... im not gonna use one... once u get the car warm... u dont really need it imo

 

if you are using air conditioning, you will need a AIC

 

ys that john

 

if you are not using IAC, first you will have idle problem. That can be fixed alittle by adjusting the idle screw because what will happen is you will not idle at 2k rpm anymore during warm up without IAC so you will always idle low. Then another problem is you idle won't be stable anymore either during warm up or after warm up since there is no more sensor constantly adjusting idle. You might have the hurmp hurmp hurmp problem or will not idle at all( car just die after you release gas pedal) since you stock ECU is still sending however much fuel it's programmed but air at idle will no longer be adjusted. Don't get confused what i'm saying against close loop operation. I am only talking about idling which is total different map then let say close loop map which is controlled by your O2 sensor or open loop map which is preprogrammed by the manufactory. A professional standalone unit can however control warmup and solve some of the idling problems but will not be completely fixed. That is why there is race car and street car which do not care how it function besides full throttle open loop map. Like mugen ECU, it don't even have close loop map anymore.


[Modified by [Evo]Hybrid, 5:35 AM 2/19/2002]


[Modified by [Evo]Hybrid, 5:36 AM 2/19/2002]

 

so say if i run open loop on the hondata, this will help some?

 

It will help some...but it will still suck until your car is totally warmed up. What I would do is drill and tap the holes for the IACV and then find some way to get outside air to the correct port of the iacv. The str manifold that I have has a small tunnel built into the back of the manifold that goes from the hole on the iacv to a small vaccum port at the bottom of the manifold so it can suck in fresh air for the valve to let into the manifold during warmup.

 

i just dont want a constant CEL

 

I have some customers that dont use an IACV but leave it plugged into the harness
so that the hondata ecu doesnt throw a light.

 

Ok, so I just want to confirm this: The only thing that will happen If I would take out the IACV (above) is it would take my car longer to warm up, and thats it? Right?

Also what needs to be done with those 3 vacum lines and can I take off the components that are hooked up to the vacum lines, like that the stuff on the left side of the pic....?

Thanks,
Adi

 

solution that would be drawn:
mount the IACV on the fire wall, weld 1 barb fitting to each hole, then 2 more barb fittings, 1 in the IC pipe by the TB and 1 in the back of the manifold and run the lines, problem solved

 

Well I guess I will just have to bare with my crapy Ideling car then, If the 440's don't already do it than running no IACV will.....

 

That's one way of doing it.
Basically, if you don't IAC, there will be alittle more problem then just longer warm up. Idles really weird and low.