New to turbo, car is over heating.....
Well I'm new to the turbo thing and just got a gsr hatch turboed. the problem i'm having is that the car is overheating too fast. When most of you guys turbo your hatches do you change/upgrade your radiators? Obviously the intercooler is blocking the radiator so it is not cooling like it should. Should i put an integra radiator on or is there something else i am missing.
ANY help is appreciated.
ANY help is appreciated.
fans are working, it's really weird it seems to only overheat when at higher speeds. Highway speeds, etc. Around town it has no problem.
i'm having the same problem in my 91 hatch, i converted to a half size and it was overheating today after a while on the highway.
if u have an aftermaket fan, make sure that it is turning the right direction... when the fan turns on , it should blow air towards the motor or maybe u have air in the system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXACCORD95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fans are working, it's really weird it seems to only overheat when at higher speeds. Highway speeds, etc. Around town it has no problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here! bump for info
same here! bump for info
How are your guys tune.Couple things to point out besides the cooling system.Running lean will create more heat.Too much retard in your timing creates more heat.Just something to think about.
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my car would use to overheat when my fan doesnt turn on. So I bypassed it to turn on at all times (expect when off). Then it wouldnt ever overheat anymore. Just a suggestion for you to do
I had a similar problem a while back. It turned out to be my radiator wasn't holding pressure. Under normal driving conditions, for example, driving around town...it was fine. However, when I used to get on it while cruising on the highway, the temp needle would slowly climb.
First, ensure that your cooling system is proper bled.(this has been mentioned above). Secondly, check the rad for any signs of minut signs of leaks. Mine was sweating around the crimped area of the rad(seam). If the rad is ok, then you may want to try a newer rad cap. Good luck.
First, ensure that your cooling system is proper bled.(this has been mentioned above). Secondly, check the rad for any signs of minut signs of leaks. Mine was sweating around the crimped area of the rad(seam). If the rad is ok, then you may want to try a newer rad cap. Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's up with the thread resurrection, I hope he's solved his problem in the two plus years it's been since he posted this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Resurrection??? This thread was started 2 days ago???
OK it looks like it will make sure the system was bled right then check the radiotaor and cap. Thanks for all the answers guys.
Resurrection??? This thread was started 2 days ago???
OK it looks like it will make sure the system was bled right then check the radiotaor and cap. Thanks for all the answers guys.
Im having the same issue with my boosted B20 in my CRX. Freeway water and oil temps are hot, water-225 (65mph 80 degrees out) oil-215-220 (same conditions). And thats with the fan overidden so its running all the time. Im also running the EG half rad. its a copper unit, which is supposed to have a better cooling properties then aluminum according to a plumber that Im working with. But everyone here is telling me to switch to the 99-00 Si aluminum unit, but nobody seems to have actual water temps to prove that it cools any different.
same thing happened to me, i bought a fluidyne and it hasnt overheated since, and its been even hotter now. the stock 1/2 size radiator is a POS and with my big *** intercooler block it, its worthless. might also wanna check the lines for air, thats happened to me before, run the car for about 15 min with the radiator cap off, on a hill where the radiator is the highest point, and it'll clear all air out of the lines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B00STED Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same thing happened to me, i bought a fluidyne and it hasnt overheated since, and its been even hotter now. the stock 1/2 size radiator is a POS and with my big *** intercooler block it, its worthless. might also wanna check the lines for air, thats happened to me before, run the car for about 15 min with the radiator cap off, on a hill where the radiator is the highest point, and it'll clear all air out of the lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right. Id be willing to bet that your stock radiator is the problem. Sometimes the stocker works just fine but a lot of times it is a little clogged,...you wouldnt notice any overheating w/the stock motor bc the stock radiator is more than enough to cool down the sohc motor that came in your car. When you start building up heat (turbo especially) you start running into temp problems. Myself personally,....Id go with a Koyo radiator but Fluidines are just as good (I guess). I would suggest that you save up for a big radiator. Some of the turbo guys on here say that you can use a del sol radiator bc they are dual core (twice as much cooling). That makes sense to me but Ive never had any experience with one.
As far as "bleeding" your coolant system,.... theres a little bleeder valve on your water neck (piece that water goes through to go into the head) that you can use to bleed all of the air out of your system. Honda's are notorious for air pockets. Let me know if you dont know how to bleed the air,.... I just done mine a few months ago.
Good luck
He's right. Id be willing to bet that your stock radiator is the problem. Sometimes the stocker works just fine but a lot of times it is a little clogged,...you wouldnt notice any overheating w/the stock motor bc the stock radiator is more than enough to cool down the sohc motor that came in your car. When you start building up heat (turbo especially) you start running into temp problems. Myself personally,....Id go with a Koyo radiator but Fluidines are just as good (I guess). I would suggest that you save up for a big radiator. Some of the turbo guys on here say that you can use a del sol radiator bc they are dual core (twice as much cooling). That makes sense to me but Ive never had any experience with one.
As far as "bleeding" your coolant system,.... theres a little bleeder valve on your water neck (piece that water goes through to go into the head) that you can use to bleed all of the air out of your system. Honda's are notorious for air pockets. Let me know if you dont know how to bleed the air,.... I just done mine a few months ago.
Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXACCORD95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Resurrection??? This thread was started 2 days ago???</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh, could have sworn, guess I was smoking some good crack that day. sorry.
heh, could have sworn, guess I was smoking some good crack that day. sorry.
How do you bypass the fan relay to make it run all the time? I've got both a pusher and puller fan on my Integra and it still manages to overheat only in stop-n-go traffic with the A/C on (which isn't that cold).
Other solutions to the thread starter: get a higher pressure radiator cap (spoon, mugen, etc.) try switching coolant mix from 50/50 to like 75/25 of distilled water:coolant. Use a quality coolant, one which doesn't contain silicates. Honda fluid is probably your best bet.
Other solutions to the thread starter: get a higher pressure radiator cap (spoon, mugen, etc.) try switching coolant mix from 50/50 to like 75/25 of distilled water:coolant. Use a quality coolant, one which doesn't contain silicates. Honda fluid is probably your best bet.
pour 1 bottle of wetter, halg gallon of 50 / 50 and the rest distilled water.... and a dual care radiator, and a 1400 CFM fan always on and a thermostat with a drilled hole in it will leave your car as cool as it needs to be. I live in MIAMI.. believe me yesterday it was almost 95 degree's int the afternoon.. that is torture... and it did no overheat.
fully built GSR on boost with A\C.
fully built GSR on boost with A\C.
I put a PWR half size dual core radiator on my 94 integra no-tec. It hasnt gone up to half temp yet, and the fan switch is bad because my fan never came on that I remember. I live in Cali and we have had 2 weeks of mostly 100+ degree days
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