switching from vtec to non vtec
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From: longisland, ny, u.s.a.
switching from vtec to non vtec
this may be a redundant question so sorry in advance but how complicated is it to put a non vtec motor in a vtec car I know i would be losing power and all but the non vtec motors are a dime a lot cheaper and I want to make my civic into a reliable work car any help would be greatly appreciated
Economic Upturn, WUT
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From: Alittle Placed Called None of Your Damn Business.
Re: switching from vtec to non vtec (timdog5984)
vtec is for economical reasons. When you hit mad tyte vtack it doesn't raise your horsepower. It just helps your valves and cam and ****.
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From: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
Re: switching from vtec to non vtec (ahrpr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahrpr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec is for economical reasons. When you hit mad tyte vtack it doesn't raise your horsepower. It just helps your valves and cam and ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you know how the "regular" type of VTEC works? What it does to air and fuel consumption?
Do you know how the "regular" type of VTEC works? What it does to air and fuel consumption?
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From: DFW, TX, USA
if you are wanting a reliable work car, then why not buy another one with nonvtec for cheap... less work, and can pic one up for $500 easy. at least around here... and not hatches by the way... i'm talking an EF body style.
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From: Malt in yor moulth, boston
Re: switching from vtec to non vtec (ahrpr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahrpr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec is for economical reasons. When you hit mad tyte vtack it doesn't raise your horsepower. It just helps your valves and cam and ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
end yourself.
end yourself.
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From: Netherlands
vtec is a little about economical driving... it's just nobody thinks of it that way...
why would you want to think of it that way?
and why slap a non vtec engine in there? My b16 crx is almost as economical as my 1.5 vtec-e EK... just depends on how you drive.... taking it to redline kills any attempt at economical driving...
but if you want economical driving, go vtec-e... cheap
(and slow, I hate it... allready working up to getting the car ready for going back to a real engine... you'll miss it!)
why would you want to think of it that way?
and why slap a non vtec engine in there? My b16 crx is almost as economical as my 1.5 vtec-e EK... just depends on how you drive.... taking it to redline kills any attempt at economical driving...
but if you want economical driving, go vtec-e... cheap
(and slow, I hate it... allready working up to getting the car ready for going back to a real engine... you'll miss it!)
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It all depends on how you drive it. If you hit vtec all the time, you will be needing gas all the time. As long as you dont engage vtec, your motor will be just like the non-vtec and therefore your gas mileage will not decrease
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From: longisland, ny, u.s.a.
no not at all i loved having vtec but i blew my motor up and im looking for the cheapest way to get the car running i know a guy selling a nonvetc motor and trans for $150 the car is a 97 in decent shape so i dont want to scrap it are there alot of wiring issues goring from vtec to no vtec?
and it has economical vtec like the accords 
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From: Staten Island, New York, USA
Re: (red-eg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ahrpr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vtec is for economical reasons. When you hit mad tyte vtack it doesn't raise your horsepower. It just helps your valves and cam and ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no idea what this guy is talking about, though, a vtec is actually a very economical and thought out engine design. When vtec is not engaged (usually below 4500, plus or minus depending on the engine) your engine is running on a lower cam profile. Once your engine switches over to vtec, then you cam profile changes due to a mechanical shift in a few components in the valve train. This "performance" profile allows more air to be sucked into your engine, thus requiring more gas. In essence, it would be wiser to stick with the vtec engine because you have the high MPG that haondas are great for, though you always have that little reserve power if you ever were to need it. That's my two cents at least.
Although, $150 is quite a deal...
no idea what this guy is talking about, though, a vtec is actually a very economical and thought out engine design. When vtec is not engaged (usually below 4500, plus or minus depending on the engine) your engine is running on a lower cam profile. Once your engine switches over to vtec, then you cam profile changes due to a mechanical shift in a few components in the valve train. This "performance" profile allows more air to be sucked into your engine, thus requiring more gas. In essence, it would be wiser to stick with the vtec engine because you have the high MPG that haondas are great for, though you always have that little reserve power if you ever were to need it. That's my two cents at least.
Although, $150 is quite a deal...
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From: CO
Re: (timdog5984)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timdog5984 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not at all i loved having vtec but i blew my motor up and im looking for the cheapest way to get the car running i know a guy selling a nonvetc motor and trans for $150 the car is a 97 in decent shape so i dont want to scrap it are there alot of wiring issues goring from vtec to no vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your car is obd2 then it will slap right in. You should get his ECU as well, but im not sure if it is necessary.
If your car is obd2 then it will slap right in. You should get his ECU as well, but im not sure if it is necessary.
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