ok so am i doing something wrong here?
OK so i have a ZC like afew of the other people here, and like alot of them have, i have the issue of the "bouncing"idle.
So far i have read this comes from the EACV most of the time, but i have two that are really cleaned and have installed both on numerous occasions. That did nothing.
Then i read about how it could be some air in the coolant. So i did what i heard was one way to bleed it and ran it off with the cap off for about 3-4 minutes. No bubbles, no nothing.
THEN i read on here that a poor connection to the battery could cause it, so i replace the battery terminals, and clean up everything i can find (i'll be replacing all the grounds next weekend) still nothing, but it did fix the sound from my stereo
So finally someone says to replace my O2 sensor, it had been throwing a code for some time and thought nothing of it. So i bought a replacment, the universal one and sodered the stock clip on, and did all the steps, reset the ecu and drove it yesterday with no code. then today out of the blue i get the freakin O2 code (code 1)
Is this normal????????
So far i have read this comes from the EACV most of the time, but i have two that are really cleaned and have installed both on numerous occasions. That did nothing.
Then i read about how it could be some air in the coolant. So i did what i heard was one way to bleed it and ran it off with the cap off for about 3-4 minutes. No bubbles, no nothing.
THEN i read on here that a poor connection to the battery could cause it, so i replace the battery terminals, and clean up everything i can find (i'll be replacing all the grounds next weekend) still nothing, but it did fix the sound from my stereo
So finally someone says to replace my O2 sensor, it had been throwing a code for some time and thought nothing of it. So i bought a replacment, the universal one and sodered the stock clip on, and did all the steps, reset the ecu and drove it yesterday with no code. then today out of the blue i get the freakin O2 code (code 1)
Is this normal????????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then i read about how it could be some air in the coolant. So i did what i heard was one way to bleed it and ran it off with the cap off for about 3-4 minutes. No bubbles, no nothing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 to 4 mins only ? When my car is idling it takes about 5 minutes just to get heated up, you might not of let the thermostat open up.
When you installed the 02 sensor did you use anti-seize, if so are you sure you did not get any on the tip of the sensor ?
Then i read about how it could be some air in the coolant. So i did what i heard was one way to bleed it and ran it off with the cap off for about 3-4 minutes. No bubbles, no nothing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 to 4 mins only ? When my car is idling it takes about 5 minutes just to get heated up, you might not of let the thermostat open up.
When you installed the 02 sensor did you use anti-seize, if so are you sure you did not get any on the tip of the sensor ?
ok so go longer with the radiator cap off? should i see the fluid flowing? i mean it looks pretty still.
An no i didn't apply anything to the O2 sensor, it came with some stuff on the thread already, maybe some of the WD-40 i sprayed on the old one (14 year old rusted on one..that bitch) got on it, but its kinda unlikely id think
An no i didn't apply anything to the O2 sensor, it came with some stuff on the thread already, maybe some of the WD-40 i sprayed on the old one (14 year old rusted on one..that bitch) got on it, but its kinda unlikely id think
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so go longer with the radiator cap off? should i see the fluid flowing? i mean it looks pretty still.
An no i didn't apply anything to the O2 sensor, it came with some stuff on the thread already, maybe some of the WD-40 i sprayed on the old one (14 year old rusted on one..that bitch) got on it, but its kinda unlikely id think</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah leave the cap off more, when the thermostat opens, you should see the fluid drop down.
Also did you wire the 02 sensor or did it come with a clip ?
An no i didn't apply anything to the O2 sensor, it came with some stuff on the thread already, maybe some of the WD-40 i sprayed on the old one (14 year old rusted on one..that bitch) got on it, but its kinda unlikely id think</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah leave the cap off more, when the thermostat opens, you should see the fluid drop down.
Also did you wire the 02 sensor or did it come with a clip ?
What can you clean the o2 sensor with it if there is stuff on it?
I had a bouncing idle for sometime with my mpfi swap. I had a bad (fram) pcv and my eacv was coated in black crap. So I removed it, sprayed it with engine degreaser and the flushed it. Now my idle does not bounce, its just low...
I had a bouncing idle for sometime with my mpfi swap. I had a bad (fram) pcv and my eacv was coated in black crap. So I removed it, sprayed it with engine degreaser and the flushed it. Now my idle does not bounce, its just low...
Try replacing your TPS sensor. I know when they go bad, it causes the bouncing idle. Is this a problem that just started, or has been there since the ZC swap?
ok, i'll try the TPS, but my old one was broken when i put it in so i just switched over the whole throttle body from my d16a6 intake.
And i did replace my pcv also. i am gonna try and make an independent vacuum for venting the crank case. I heard that its really good for your engine, especially under boost.
Either way, i think it might be a vac line. So i have a quick question, i bought about 3'of 3/16" line (at least i think thats the size) Would there be a problem if the lines are too skinny?
And i did replace my pcv also. i am gonna try and make an independent vacuum for venting the crank case. I heard that its really good for your engine, especially under boost.
Either way, i think it might be a vac line. So i have a quick question, i bought about 3'of 3/16" line (at least i think thats the size) Would there be a problem if the lines are too skinny?
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ive found adjusting the idle way down (close the adjustment screw) and slowly backing it out to the proper idle fixed things for me.
i replaced the IACV, bled the coolant, reset the idle according to helms (pulling the hazard fuse) and none of it worked until i set the idle the way i described.
i never touched the o2 sensor, nor the TPS.
Modified by Tyson at 4:54 PM 7/20/2005
i replaced the IACV, bled the coolant, reset the idle according to helms (pulling the hazard fuse) and none of it worked until i set the idle the way i described.
i never touched the o2 sensor, nor the TPS.
Modified by Tyson at 4:54 PM 7/20/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't reall yhave a problem with a high idle, but the jumping idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know. im talking about when the idle goes really high then really low and really high and really low..... but thats what fixed it for me.
i know. im talking about when the idle goes really high then really low and really high and really low..... but thats what fixed it for me.
i think there could be a leak in the intake somewhere, but from what i understand that would just cause a high idle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think there could be a leak in the intake somewhere, but from what i understand that would just cause a high idle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now we are making some ground
Basically if there is a leak in the system, the ecu will try to fix the leak and lower the idle, but the leak will cause the idle to jump back up.
Causing a surging idle.
Now we are making some ground
Basically if there is a leak in the system, the ecu will try to fix the leak and lower the idle, but the leak will cause the idle to jump back up.
Causing a surging idle.
^ what he said.
I disconnected my pcv once while the engine was running and it bounced perfectly from 3k to 500 rpm ever 3 seconds or so.
I disconnected my pcv once while the engine was running and it bounced perfectly from 3k to 500 rpm ever 3 seconds or so.
ok i'm having a problem kinda like that.
Ok now onto second question...
i bought some hose i think i can use for vac lines. But it looks to be thinner than the stock ones. Will this hurt anything? Can i use the thinner new ones without any problems?
Ok now onto second question...
i bought some hose i think i can use for vac lines. But it looks to be thinner than the stock ones. Will this hurt anything? Can i use the thinner new ones without any problems?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i'm having a problem kinda like that.
Ok now onto second question...
i bought some hose i think i can use for vac lines. But it looks to be thinner than the stock ones. Will this hurt anything? Can i use the thinner new ones without any problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only problem I can see you having is, the hose would not slip onto the nipples. Besides that you should be fine.
Fix the leak and you should be fine.
Ok now onto second question...
i bought some hose i think i can use for vac lines. But it looks to be thinner than the stock ones. Will this hurt anything? Can i use the thinner new ones without any problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only problem I can see you having is, the hose would not slip onto the nipples. Besides that you should be fine.
Fix the leak and you should be fine.
awesome, and the hoses fit on the nipples just fine, maybe it just because they are 14 year old rubber hoses from japan
So i'll do that this weekend. Wish me luck
So i'll do that this weekend. Wish me luck
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