Battery kill switch Question...
well everyone has seen the above, but I was wondering if the way i currently have everythign wired up is ok, it works perfectly, but wanted to ensure a tech isn't going to kill me.
I had it wired up worng, so i ran another wire, i understand teh above setup would require less wiring.
I currently have Alternator running to starter. then a 0gauge wire from Starter to kill switch post, from that same post, it goes to the positive battery.
From the other post, I have a wire running directly to the underhood fuse box. So when you turn the switch off, it instantly kills power to the factory fuse box and all accessories in the car.
I'm wondering about the althernator to battery wire attached to the starter, and the two wires on the posts on the kill switch.
Let me know.
one reason i do mildly like this setup, is I don't have to run all those amps through the factory box for the starter, as the above graph does.
Pictures are worth everythign:
Modified by seen4ever at 5:07 AM 7/17/2005
Here is one way of doing it (minus the pics):
1. Run 1 wire from one side of the kill switch (0 or 4 gauge) to the battery.
2. Run 1 wire from the other side of the kill switch (0 or 4 gauge) to the starter.
3. Run 1 wire (4 or 8 gauge) to a distrobution block (similar to those used for car stereo installations).
4. Chop of the end of the wire that was from the fuse box to the positive side of the battery. Strip the end, and insert to one of the outputs of the distrobution block.
5. Turn the switch to the on position, and start the car.
6. With the car running, throw the kill switch to the off position, and wala car turns off.
Like I said this is one way that you can do it. You can always take step number 4, and run a new 8 gauge from the fuse box to the starter and be okay as well. I just use the distro box for an output for a 30 amp fuse for the fuel pump.
Good luck,
Jason
1. Run 1 wire from one side of the kill switch (0 or 4 gauge) to the battery.
2. Run 1 wire from the other side of the kill switch (0 or 4 gauge) to the starter.
3. Run 1 wire (4 or 8 gauge) to a distrobution block (similar to those used for car stereo installations).
4. Chop of the end of the wire that was from the fuse box to the positive side of the battery. Strip the end, and insert to one of the outputs of the distrobution block.
5. Turn the switch to the on position, and start the car.
6. With the car running, throw the kill switch to the off position, and wala car turns off.
Like I said this is one way that you can do it. You can always take step number 4, and run a new 8 gauge from the fuse box to the starter and be okay as well. I just use the distro box for an output for a 30 amp fuse for the fuel pump.
Good luck,
Jason
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboChrgd_Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jason we need to wire up a kill switch on my car...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well get that pig. I will give you the part number for the Flaming River one. It is the nicest.
Jason
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well get that pig. I will give you the part number for the Flaming River one. It is the nicest.
Jason
Relocation of battery or 135 MPH. If it is for 135 MPH, then battery switch must be a pull on, push off style. And also be marked with a sticker that says "push off." If you do a search, there is a thread on here with pictures.
Jason
Jason
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrchris1979
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
5
Sep 3, 2006 01:30 AM



we're in the process of doing a kill switch on my hatch, this post help a lot 
