so if i take a wire, run it from the alternator to the + battery, then to the one of the kill switch posts... then run another wire from the other kill switch post to the where i unhooked the alternator wire from the engine bay fuse box?

what do i do about the wire that runs from the engine bay fuse box to the + battery to the starter? because there are two outlets places on the engine fuse box, one goes to the alternator, one goes to the + battery then to the starter...

but if i hook it up like this, i will have two things connected to the + battery, the alternator wire going from the alternator to the + battery to the kill switch and the starter wire going from the starter to the + battery to the engine fuse box


on the starter wire, do i just run it directly to the engine bay fuse box?

 

Here you go, I will try to add a step by step for the pictures:

1. Install switch in desired location. Run at least 4 ga. wire from both sides of the switch. One of the wires will go straight to the battery (see illustration A). The other wire will go straight to the starter (see illustration B).

Switch installed in my desired location, yours may vary.




Illustration A



Illustration B



2. Next install the distrobution block (that is what I wanted to use) in your desired location.



3. From that distrobution block run at least an 8 ga. wire from the block to the starter where the 4 ga. from the switch should be waiting.

4. Now go back to the distrobution block and that wire that used to run form the battery to the fuse box, cut the terminal off if it, and install it into the distrobution block.

5. The last step is to make a small jumper that will connect the two screw terminals inside the stock fuse box together.

6. Now you should be able to pull the switch on to power the car up. Once you have it running, push the switch off, and there you go car will die.

Jason

 

Travis, you're just working like a mad man on your car, huh?!?

Wanna know a good way to make things a lot more complicated than need be and also "secure"? Here's a diagram I made a while back (you may have seen it), but it's really only necessary if you're driving your car around on the street a lot and you don't want people ******* with your ****! This version shuts down your alternator instead of just breaking the circuit.

 

^^^ thanks

 

jason question:

doesn't the switch have to be inline of the alternator?

from the describtion you have, you from alternator to fuse box, fuse box to distribution box, which goes to the starter. So that's the same as going alternator to fuse box, fuse box to starter.

if the car was running, it seems that it would still run as the alternator would charge it, since its circuit is never broken? what does the jumper on the fuse box do, seems it wouldn't be needed.

I may be missing something, I know you've been in the game alot longer than me, but I would have swore that's how i orignally had my car setup except without hte distribution box, just a wire going from fuse box to starter and my car would still run with the switch set to 'off'. although i dind't have the jump there.

 

ive been working on this car like crazy, pretty much as far as i can go right now though.

when you say a jumper piece for inside the fuse box, you mean just some little bracket that can connect both bolts since only one wire is going to be connected, right? thank you everybody

 

Put that jumper wire there and she will shut down.

Jason

 

aaaahhh, so that jumper wire is the key feature when not connecting it through the alternator itself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put that jumper wire there and she will shut down.

Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

well holy ****, considering my setup now, where i had to run alternator to starter and then a wire from my switch to the fuse box, that little jump trick would have saved me a bit of time. I may re-convert it back to ditch the weight of the extra 4gauge wire and be able to have the alternator going directly to the ecu power source.

 

just read this and was wondering why you wouldnt put the kill switch inline with the ground wire because once thats cut the car will shut down will it not?

 

Rules require it to be on the hot (12V+) side... (NHRA General Regulations - 8.4)