Alright guys. Here is the car:

1993 Honda Civic CX
JDM Sir-II B16 swap
94 Civic EX harness

When we started the car with the chipped P28 ECU the ecu started smoking like a ****. We didn't know what was going on so we swapped in the stock CX ecu. Once again it also smoked.

We opened both the ECU's and the R135 was burnt on both of them.

What they hell do we do wrong? I really need help ASAP.

 

find out what solder r135 does and let me know/ not sure not at home and dont have my books

 

Yea, just so you know, the magic smoke that came out of the ECU can't be replaced. ECU = fucked.

There is too much amperage somewhere. Possibly a short to ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">find out what solder r135 does and let me know/ not sure not at home and dont have my books</TD></TR></TABLE>

what can i use to find out?

 

My engine is also throwing an IAT code and VTEC solenoid code (VTEC isn't wired yet).

I read if you accidently have the IAS and PCS wires reversed it can fry some USDM ECUs.

 

you need an ecu diagram, might be able to find one on the net,

 

sounds like you got something wired up wrong....and i guess you will possibly need a new ecu too.

 

Too much amperage. You'll need to use a DVOM (digital voltage/ohm meter) to find it. Look around on line for wirign diagrams, but IMHO I think you've got your work cut out for you.

 

Wow welcome to a electrician nightmare.

I suggest going through every plug with an volt meter and check whos shooting out the most amperage and find out what it is then go from there.

Here is a picture so you know what has power and what doesnt to get you started.

 

Well I got VTEC wired up and working. The problem is I still don't know about this R135 resistor, and apparently no one else in the world knows either.

The only code my car is throwing is IAT now, and I really don't know why, probably because of this fried resistor.

 

So you sourced a 3rd ECU, gave that a try and it didn't burn up which allowed you to verify VTEC operation and also that you have an IAT code?

Or did you just stick one of the now-burned ECUs back in, go for a spin, VTEC is now working and you also have an IAT code?

What are the IAS and PCS wires? Why would you be concerned about them being switched around? Was the harness hacked or something? Did you do some harness hacking?

 

No, we didn't use the 3rd ECU (p30) beause we didn't want to fry all 3 ECU's in one day.

We wired up VTEC, put in the p28 and went out for a spin, it was only throwing code 10 (IAT) and VTEC worked after the engine warmed up all the way.

We used a 94 EX harness on the swap, we didn't modify it at all, nor did we depin A20 (PCS).

I didn't switch any wires around at all, I said that I read that that can happen if they are switched, but mine aren't.

HTH

 

PCS is the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid. What is IAS? Even though yours aren't switched around, why would anyone have moved these wires at the ECU connector? Or are you talking about the EVAP connector being plugged into some other sensor while that sensors connector was plugged into the EVAP solenoid?

 

i bet purge control and intake air temp plugs were mixed up or something like that

 

R135 ties to pin D18. It's for the auto tranny lockup circuit and upshift indicator. Find out why you are having shorting issues on the pink/green or white/red wire coming from pin D18. In a manual trans car you will probably be fine with this circuit damaged. Check the IAT and EVAP purge solenoid plugs and make sure they are connected correctly. If they have been connected wrong at any time, your IAT is now smoked and needs replaced.

 

Milan,

From what you have told me the EVAP purge solenoid plug is hooked up to the IAT. Find the IAT plug and plug it up.

R135 is a jumper that ties into pin D18 (as mentioned above). Replace R135 with a wire and you will be fine.

-kenji

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kenji &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Milan,

From what you have told me the EVAP purge solenoid plug is hooked up to the IAT. Find the IAT plug and plug it up.

R135 is a jumper that ties into pin D18 (as mentioned above). Replace R135 with a wire and you will be fine.

-kenji</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks again Kenji. I really appreciate it.

 

also if you want to know the vtec will only engage properly once the car has warmed