Hi guys,

I was just wondering out of curiousity if anybody out there has a EF with a B series swap and a large turbo setup running a full sized aluminum radiator. I'm not looking for the smaller T3/HMT type setups. I'm looking for large turbo like a T3/T04B or E, or an SC61 or GT30R or 35R.

I would like to know what kind of manifold and turbo orientation would give the most room for a full sized rad. Right now I have a Revhard manifold with a T3/T04E with the compressor to the driver side. If I turn the compressor to the passenger side and notch the block it *looks* like it might give me more room, but I wont know for sure until I try it.

TIA

 

I had an Inlinepro 4bolt manifold and a t3/t04e. HCP mounts, b16. It didn't fit. Not even close.

 

dang you got my hopes up until I read that last part. I saw that Newman had a full sized radaitor, but he had a funky looking IC setup.

I wonder if those ramhorn or topmount manifolds would work. I'm sure a sidewinder type manifold would work but I dont like those kinds of manifolds. One other thing I was thinking about doing was getting a PWR barrel liquid intercooler and running it on the street. Then I could maybe get a custom radiator that is a little shorter but covers the full width of the bumper opening and move it forward closer to where the FMIC used to sit. Too much custom work though..

 

Oh yah, do you guys thinkg a GT28R, RS or a GT2871R will fit with a full sized rad? those were some turbos I was looking at but not cause I needed them to fit with my radiator. I was looking at them cause I was looking for a turbo with better response.

 

hmmmm...... im sure you can get it TO fit, but it MIGHT have to take the space of the AC compressor. and use a custom Manifold.


but think of a HF manifold, an HF manifold, it fits in a Fullsize Rad car. with a normel size turbo it COULD possibly fit, but your probly going to use slim fans, and might even have to mount them on the front of the rad.

Personaly, ide use a HF manifold with adapterplate. and maybe use a 14b or a t25, found in the Eclipses\talons.

 

Forgot to mention that I dont have AC. And like the topic title says this is for a B series swap, to be more specific a fully built B18C. I could probably pull it off with a straight T3, but there's a reason the block is built up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forgot to mention that I dont have AC. And like the topic title says this is for a B series swap, to be more specific a fully built B18C. I could probably pull it off with a straight T3, but there's a reason the block is built up. </TD></TR></TABLE>


oh ****, B-series. opps. Didnt read that.

 

that's going to an extremely tight fit, you also have to put into consideration engine movement when your racing. Solid mounts might stop the travel but there is still going to be some. If your worried about overheating issues I would get a 12" slim pusher up front and 10-12" puller in the engine bay. You may also think about upgrading your Thermostat and getting a different fan switch,

 

I've seen the inlinepro 5-bolt manifold fit with a full size. I would go with the custom radiator. Why are you so hung up on radiator size? Half size radiators usually have enough capacity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keith P &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen the inlinepro 5-bolt manifold fit with a full size. I would go with the custom radiator. Why are you so hung up on radiator size? Half size radiators usually have enough capacity.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I concur. and a 2 row half size at that.

 

I'm just worried that my Full Race PWR shorty wont be able to take the abuse. I'm going to do a few things like run water wetter, maybe have my fan on all the time, upgraded thermostat. But even then I'm still worried about high temps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just worried that my Full Race PWR shorty wont be able to take the abuse. I'm going to do a few things like run water wetter, maybe have my fan on all the time, upgraded thermostat. But even then I'm still worried about high temps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I work for a guy with a 1000whp street driven supra on a TOTALLY stock cooling system, if he can do that, you should be fine. He also joked around about putting a spare skyline radiator in my ef sedan... how shweet would that be?

 

...And then again we aren't talking about a Supra

You cant say that just because a factory turbo car like a Supra is fine that a non factory turbo B18C EF will be fine too. Supras have their manifolds and turbos on the sides so the radiator space isn't affected unlike turbo Hondas.

From what I read in the FI forum average temps for turbo Hondas get to around 190-220*. I believe that for aluminum head/block engines 230-250* is the point where stuff starts to warp from the heat. I want to be able to run the best and biggest cooling system possible.

I think the best thing to do is to do a liquid intercooler setup. That way there is no FMIC blocking the radiator. It would be expensive, but probably slightly better. The only problem is I have to get a good liquid IC setup so that it wont heatsoak too easily.

 

If its not gonna see long periods of track use it'll be fine considering the rad./fluid/fan are in good shape... flushing the system and adding some higher quality stuff will help too.

 

The thing is it is probably gonna see a lot of track time. I might also take my car to track days at some of the local road courses. But mostly I'll be doing drag racing.

 

The PWR shorty is more then efficient and this is why.

Here in Utah this summer we have temps in the high 90's for the past 2 months and I know TONS of ppl that run around on a stocker 1 core civic radiator and have over 400WHP daily driven. They don't get hot and stay mostly about normal operating temp unless they don't have a fan.

In my CRX with a B16 have a full stack flluidyne and my fan never turns on, even after hard driving I stay normal temps unless I'm stopped for a while

 

What water temps are you guys seeing?

 

Try adding an oil cooler. Helped alot on my car.