me and a friend of mine have been trying to get his h22 to run correctly in his ek. he bought it for a good price but had some issues. the problem is it sounds like its running of 2 cylinders and when i hit the gas it stumbles very bad, we tried distributor, map sensor, grounds, compression is perfect along the board. i think weve tried about everything. had anyone had this problem? please help, no idiots please

 

Are you sure you have the wires in the correct order? What ecu are you using? Do you have a resistor hooked up to the injectors? Is he running a check engine light?

 

no cel, using stock obd2 ecu. if u mean firing order it is definately correct. i dont know on resistor box, but it would still run wont it? and the ecu still spits out codes if there is something disconnected. might be on to something tho

 

Ok, what year engine is it?
and is his Injectors OBD1?

I don't know if a cel comes on or not if you don't have a resistor box. Maybe someone else can answer this?

 

well a cel would go off but no resistor box will fry your ecu and i dont believe a ecu will throw a code if its burnt, correct me if im wrong.

 

I dono,
What year h22 is it?

 

check your fuel delivery sys...even fuel pump...might not be getting good fuel pressure on throttle...what model chassis? obd2 injectors are saturated i believe, so you wouldn't need a resistor box...

i also agree, check firing order, timing, tdc?

 

there is a fpr gauge in the engine bay and its fine, checked tdc, timing, there is a bosch fuel pump too but ill check that out. its weird cause it idles fine and when i hit the gas it stumbles real bad and then i let off and the rpms go up a couple thousand for a second then come back down. this is weird, i even tried a valve adjustment. o yah its a 1997 maybe 98 dx hatch, and its a obd2 motor i forgot what year. ill get back to u on that my next day off which is tuesday

 

Ok, get all this info on here that is for sure because it matters. Well, its what I would do.

Did you use the dx harness? If so, did you run vtec wires?

Look on the front of the head, there should be the year of the motor, it should look like this: #|# Mine says 9|7, that means it is a 1997 motor. And for the car, look under the hood, there should be a sticker with the year vehicle.

Do you know how to check for codes?

Look on the ecu, what does it say on the top, and sides, Is it a 4 plug, or 3 plug?

Also, pull out one of the injectors and tell us what color ring is on it.

For now, this should put you at a good start, if you aren't having any luck.

Hope this will help.

 

its a 98 chassis , its a 98 motor, obd2 injectors, civic ex wiring harnes. my tuner checks the codes. and its obd2. and i know a lil more than you think i do,come on, how do u check the year of the car? cmon man gimme a break


Modified by turbosnatch at 3:50 AM 7/19/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosnatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 98 chassis , its a 98 motor, obd2 injectors, civic ex wiring harnes. my tuner checks the codes. and its obd2. and i know a lil more than you think i do,come on, how do u check the year of the car? cmon man gimme a break


Modified by turbosnatch at 3:50 AM 7/19/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't take it to heart, I am not insulting you. I was explaining just incase. There are alot of people that come on here that ask questions about why there car isn't running and you tell them what to do, and then they turn around and come back asking you how to do it. I was just covering everything that I could think of at the time. And I apoligize for not asking you how much knowledge you have with this setup.

If your using the stock ecu, how did you get the engine to start? Reason I ask is, all 97+ lude ecus came with a immobilizer which should have prevented you from starting the engine.

I

 

its prolly a chipped ecu, will that matter

 

Depends on what it was setup for. It could be making it run really rich? I thought someone else would have posted by now with something.

 

check the ecu code...p13? sixgundone is correct, 97+ obd2 ecus have an immobilizer...so if your gonna run a p13....try n find a 96 p13, still obd2 w/o immobilizer...should fix your bogging...that ecu you are running isn't chipped for that motor IMO...go an get a vafc, and head to the dyno so the tuner can correct your a/f ratio...good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpdImge415 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the ecu code...p13? sixgundone is correct, 97+ obd2 ecus have an immobilizer...so if your gonna run a p13....try n find a 96 p13, still obd2 w/o immobilizer...should fix your bogging...that ecu you are running isn't chipped for that motor IMO...go an get a vafc, and head to the dyno so the tuner can correct your a/f ratio...good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree

 

sorry guys its actually a obd1 ecu with a 96 distributor. any other ideas?

 

Well, once you convert your car to OBD1 with a conversion harness, the rest of the parts on the car don't need to be converted cause they allready are. (You might know that allready) And I think you need to check for codes your self cause if your car is running this bad, there should be a check engine.

When I swapped my h22 in my EK, I had the same problem, except mine wasn't as bad as yours sounds. And my motor had bad compression. What I ended up doing was going to a junkyard and getting all the parts so I could set up the EGR.

I feel really confident that you are running a CEL 12, because putting a h22 in a ek while using a p13 will give you this cel because it is sensing that the EGR isn't running correctly. Some people say it will put your car in limp mode. It may, It may not? I suggest you clean the EGR valve out too. There is a thread on here that shows you with pics. Let me know if you want it. I will search for it later.

Also, some people with this similar setup say that there cel 12 doesn't come on till 20 minutes after driving around.


I really can't think of anything else this could be. Hope were getting somewere.

 

yah i dont know whats wrong, it was throwing check codes not too long ago and we saw that the egr valve had a bad gasket so we fixed that and it ran better, a lot better. maybe it does need to be cleaned, you can send those illustrations over on how to do that if youd like. i pray this fixes it, if it wasnt for him getting such a good deal i would say it isnt worth it. it will be a monster, its sleeved and everything.

 

Yea, no prob. After your done, let us know how it runs.

I am still searching for the thread on cleaning the ports. Here is a thread that has a pic about what I am talking about.( getting the EGR setup).

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=897273

Read the whole post, but make sure you read the last post, by "V4lu3s" Knows what hes talking about

I will keep searching and look for the other thread on cleaning the egr valve.