I am gonna have to rebuild my engine since i got a nasty case of rod knock. I am picking up another y8 for free with a similar case of the knockage. I dont have a lot of money so dont go suggesting crazy **** i just want to drive my car again. I was just wondering what I could look at spending on various gaskets and such? Is there any thing that i should pull out while have the engine tore apart? Are zc pistons worth the money? Would it be ok to use good pistons from enine a to replace bad piston in engine b? Any good cleaning tips?

 

<FONT COLOR="red">[Please do not direct people to off world sites.]</FONT>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scottie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a real motor d series sucks *****</TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone else impressed that this was his first post?

 

the only thing off the top of my head that i can think of is if your planning on going turbo down the line.. suzuki vitara pistons work really good

 

Yes, I was very impressed.

 

no turbo just a daily driver for now. but thanks for the suggestion.

 

don't listen to idiot like above, d-series could make decent power. And yes ZC pistons are worth the upgrade, Good luck with your build and hopefully you could get a lot of useful info and not worthless crap like li_hatch gave you

 

espect tp pay about 250 for all your gaskets and bearing, get a set of arp head studs while you are at it. if you ever go turbo or n20, you will have a much less chance of popping head gaskets
good luck
burke

 

well are u just trying to get it running again ??!!?? well u might wantt to find out WHY it started to knock in the first place..... and is this just a STOCK rebuild or u want to go turbo downthe line????? if just stock rebuild....... new gasket set and bearings will set u back approx 225-250...... new water pump and timing belt another 100...... and if u get your head redone that is abnohter like 2-300 IF YOU EVEN HTING YOU MIGHT GO TURBO........ start building now !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> get a set of arp head studs while you are at it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, I think thats gonna have to happen since the head studs stretch if i am not mistaken.

Question: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cueballsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well are u just trying to get it running again ??!!?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Answer: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importdreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I dont have a lot of money so dont go suggesting crazy **** i just want to drive my car again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Still wondering about the piston swapping from engine a to engine b or are piston made especially for the crank it was born with? Also, It was suggested that i get the crank micro-polished rather than replace it. does anyone have any thoughts on that?

 

oh any li_hatch just suggested a sight that was off honda-tech for help. He didnt bash anyone. scottie's post was deleted all together.

 

anyone heard of the micro-polish thing?

 

I just built a high compression na d15b7 w/ d16y8 head swap. after all was said and done i spent over 2k including machine work. my suggestion if your not going to go all out (bearings, pistons, rods, clean up bore, mill deck surface, etc.) just find an engine shop that sells rebuilds w/ a warranty. it shouldnt cost much more than 500 bucks.
If u do want to go all out talk to a performance machine shop to get all your parts because the usually get u the best prices especially if the do any machining for u. Sealed power teflon coated pistons .020" oversized for my block were $27 a piece. honda dealer wanted $61 for the cast aluminum .020" pistons.