I have never relocated a battery before, what is neccesary for this task. Can someone give instructions and possibly pictures? This would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

btw: 91 Si hatch... battery to trunk.

 

Just do a serach there is a lot of good threads on this topic

here is one of the many topics i found searching
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=714504

 

Odyssey P680, custom battery box, 0 gauge power and ground.
I made my own battery box, mounted it in the rear. I grounded the battery in the rear and also ran the alternator ground to the front w/ the power and grounded it under the hood.

 

Don't use home depot wire...that's just ghetto to the nth degree.

Go to either a decent auto supply (not vatozone) Like Napa or Car Craft and ask for battery or welding cable. Or an audio shop for some decent power cable(they charge a grip tho). Or go to your local welding supply house and ask for cable. It's a little more expensive but well worth it.

Here's a nice write up on one

http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html

 

i know that this frees up space under the hood and makes for a cleaner engine bay but is there anything else it helps out with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RegatoneSucks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know that this frees up space under the hood and makes for a cleaner engine bay but is there anything else it helps out with? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Weight distribution

 

Thanks everyone, I alread did it, i just got to go get the distribution box tomorrow and everything will be good. I'll post pics if anyones intrested in seeing them.

 

yeah post some please.

 

Here is how i did it. halfway trough the page, AND i used all the original wires just mved them around a little.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1269209&page=2

 

I have a complete LS motor swap ready to install in a crx. The Ls motor has no internal work, It just has a stage 3 clutch, headers and a intake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean *** rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a complete LS motor swap ready to install in a crx. The Ls motor has no internal work, It just has a stage 3 clutch, headers and a intake </TD></TR></TABLE>

AND?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n-c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use home depot wire...that's just ghetto to the nth degree.

Go to either a decent auto supply (not vatozone) Like Napa or Car Craft and ask for battery or welding cable. Or an audio shop for some decent power cable(they charge a grip tho). Or go to your local welding supply house and ask for cable. It's a little more expensive but well worth it.[/url]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Worth it how? I'm in the process of doing mine now and I used some HD wire, I see no problems with it. Plus none of the wealding stores in my area carried wire.

 

Parts List:
-14 Feet of 4 gauge wire ( no smaller ) Audio Shops carry TONS of it.
-Distribution Box.... Audio Shops also carry tons of these.
-Marine Battery Box...Walmarts got them for 7bucks
-Misc Connectors. or old ones if you want.

1. Mount your battery box in your desired location. Mine was located right in the middle of the back where the spare tire is supposed to go. Attatch it however you desire, I used 4 self drilling screws.



2. Now take your wire and run to the front by the ecu. If you want to make it look clean like I did then run it under the seat and under tha carpet all the way up to the back of the ecu. Make sure you have enought wire in the back for your battery.
Get everything how you like it.





3. Now if you look in picture you'll see where there is a hole in firewall where a bunch of wires come from inside the car out to by the fusebox. Take that an pull the rubber seal ( do this from the engine bay side ) Now feed the wire through the hole AND the rubber peice and seal the rubber peice back.



4. Now take the wires ( one from the fuse box, one from the starter, and the one you just pulled from the battery to the front ) and connect them in to the distribution box. I mounted my distribution box first and then installed the wires.



5. Go to the back and make your ground. I made mine to the strut tower, make sure you have a clean bare metal surface to ground. And hook up your postitive and your set. Enjoy!!





This was my first one, as you can tell. It turned out excellent! If you have any questions ask, or if you want more pics.

Bonus: honda kart coming soon....




Don't pay any attention to the strut bar. I made it as a welding project on my first EF. Never got around to painting it.

 

I wish I found that hole in the firewall before I finished mine... took me an assload of time to get that grommet to seat with the wire on there.

I took the guy from Homemadeturbo.com's advice and used the right rear of the car (CRX), if you want to keep your spare.

 

well my car (EF hatch) doesnt have enough room in the corner for the battery. so i had no other choice. But yeah homemade turbo was a good resource to me.

 

ive found that doing this makes creating your own charge pipes for a hmt setup 100 times easyer especially because with a BOV in there somewehres things get tight with that batt sitting right there

 

with relocated batteries, what do some of you guys have for kill switches, for at the track

 

what happens to the hydrogen gas generated by the battery during charging cycle?

 

I wish it was that easy, but the track wont let me run just that easy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9Si-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an extra tray I made If anyone is interested. Its not done yet, It needs to be filed down from the edges and drilled for mounting holes and maybe paint unless you want no paint.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It fits perfect for hawker batteries, its actually measured around the pc680 but is slighty bigger to accept a bigger battery if need be.

 

il be a getting a ddry cell battery here soon. but this one works for now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shevlin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with relocated batteries, what do some of you guys have for kill switches, for at the track</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want one. But I have no clue, and I did a search and didnt see much on the topic. Anyone else have any tips?