Okay guys im trying to keep cost low but I am going for big HP (500hp range)

I Currently have (sitting in my room):
stock GSR motor
JG VictorX intake manifold
One-Fab T3 Top Mount mani
Tial 44mm
Holset H1C turbo
1000cc injectors
3 bar map
walbro 255 HP
Chipped p28

before I go any further I am actually going for 275-300whp, but I want my setup to be capable of making 500whp after sleeves/pistons/rods

I am 95% sure I am going to get a different turbo, this is my street car so I need a turbo that will also make power on the street not just track, I'm thinking SC61? T3/T04S? any turbos that would fit my needs better? .63 seems like my best bet although it may hurt my top end

Anyways this week I am buying some other junk before I order my turbo (If I order the turbo first this stuff wont get done for a while)
1 Fluidampr Race Balancer (since I only have an altenator, and my stock pully is banged up)
2 Aeromotive A1000 FPR, is this a good choice? should I get the 6AN or 10 AN unit?
3 NGK plugs 8 heat range
4 Tial 50mm BOV

That is what is on my list for this weeks shopping list
please give me advice as to what would be the best fuel rail (i know stock is good to 400whp but I dont want to upgrade stuff again if possible)
Plug wires My Accel ones fell apart
Cap, Rotor, Coil Should I get a MSD box?


As for suspention it seems like people are having good luck with Omni-Power? I would rather have like Neuspeed or H&R's since this is a street car but I'm sick of tire hoop.

Where is the best place to get pre-made SS AN lines for honda fuel lines?

What would best suit me 2.5, 2.75 or 3" I/C piping?

After reading the catchcan thread it seems like I should go the catchcan route?

Yes I know I still need alot of other stuff such as traction bars, better internals, IC piping, FMIC, bigger exhaust (going 4"), turning, more money... But like I said I want to make sure I get all the right parts so I keep the money wasting to a minimum. My last turbo setup was just tossed together and my motor didnt last to long (20,000 miles on B18b1 that has 80,000) but I didnt do much research and ran 11lbs on a FMU and missing link... yeah never again, please help me make the right moves

Any parts you guys would reccomend let me know, or tell me what you would buy.

Thanks
Kyle


Modified by N20civicB18 at 10:57 PM 7/5/2005

 

going fast and cheap don't belong together in the same sentence

 

I would agree, big hp range costs $$.

But to help you:

Charge pipes:
2.5" will be plenty/sufficient.

Fuel:
-10 feed and -8 would be the <U>biggest</U> you would ever need. People have tons of different opinions, but for the most part people seem to like -8 feed and -6 return lines (going from tank to rail). Don't forget about your fuel filter...look at an aeromotive or something to go in line with the lines you run from the tank.

Oh and people will say you'll be fine with stock lines too....thats your call and only your call man. "Better safe than sorry" though right?

SS Lines:
Don't know if there are pre-made lines....making them yourself works the same.

Spark Plugs:
I think the 8 range will be fine. I can give personal insight in about a week or two once I tune my car with them (looking for 500 myself).

BOV:
The Tial 50mm is plenty for 500whp...good choice. People obviously have different opinions here too, but the average is that bov will perform well.

Ignition:
I have heard stories of people having troubles with their MSD systems. I am running the Digital 6 Plus, MSD cap, MSD 8.5mm wires and the Blaster coil. No problems at all with mine. Maybe I am lucky? Maybe I just made better connections (everything is soldered...I don't believe in using butt connectors). Whatever it is, its working and I have no complaints and love the system.

Catchcan:
It is truely your decision, Endyn catchcan would be fine....but like many H-T posts, thats my opinion. Just read that Offical thread and decide which one you want to do.

More:
When you get to the internals stage/etc. let us know and we'll try and provide some guidance.

 

you can get the braided line kit for the fpr from flamenco-t in the sponsor section.

and sc6152e will be good for over 500hp and spool the fastest of the 3


And you should get the new edelbrock fuel rail.it puts the fpr on the side so it doesnt hit the gbig *** edelbrock intake manifold and if you run the aeromotive it will work sweet also

pick up a hondata or an aem ems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">going fast and cheap don't belong together in the same sentence</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh i know that but by that i mean I dont need a full race manifold when I have a one fab, dont need a GT series when a SC is fine...

I had hondata in my car before and after reading all of the cars on neptune I am going with that as Jeff Evans is only a few hours away


I was planning on stock lines from fuel tank with 6an from filter to rail and 6an from rail to regulator. hmm but if the edelbrock rail will fit a FPR on it that might be a better choice

 

If you are doing custom lines like that from the filter to rail and rail to fpr, then I would suggest this:

-6 from filter to rail. The rail could either be AEM or Golden Eagle. Both will work fine, and then just take -6 line from the rail and run it to an Aeromotive FPR (these don't have to mount to the rail). Then from the FPR use -6 and clamp it to your stock return line.

 

What would you guys suggest for a turbo? I noticed the GT35r's comming down in price a little but from what i hear they spool up close to a SC61 and put out about the same power. After I do internals I would like to have 450hp range on pump.

 

The T3/T4 .57 has an efficiency rated at 450

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The T3/T4 .57 has an efficiency rated at 450</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah but that is not in my my goals, i would like to make 450 on pump and that turbo would be blowing alot of hot air to make that power - that would make me need c16

 

you definately need gages to monitor vitals

egt gage
boost gage

I reccomend stewart warner gages

Also get a afr gage, not a a/f gage but an afr, like a aem uego or a plx devices type or even the innovative type.

you might also want a rewire kit for that fuel pump since it is going to be sucking alot of juice, get a nice optima redtop battery as well, nothing wrong with 800cca starting up your car.

those 1000cc's might be overkill for 500whp.

get a new fuel filter as well. for a bov, get a hks ssq or tial bov, those are by far the 2 top bov's. although the tial cant be recirculated.

 

subscirbed

 

water temp and oil pressure gauge would be a good thing to have as well.

 

I have Boost guage and A/F guage already (yeah i know i bought it 2 years ago when i thought it was what I needed) I personally do not belive I should have to monitor AFR as if my tuner does the job I am paying him big money for I should not have to worry about it, It will be tuned by Jeff Evans with neptune. How are the Autometer Ultra-Lite EGT guages? (to match my boost guage)

good point on fuel filter, I do change mine every 15k but do oem honda ones flow enough to support big power?

I am going with Tial 50mm as I have heard nothing bad about it., Ill get some wire and relays for my fuel pump, Does anyone make a plug and play kit?

Has anyone used a mechanical oil pressure guage inside a car before?

 

Pretty sure of either SC61S or GT35R for a turbo, any other suggestions? t3/t67?