hey im stuck ... how can i get the caliper piston back into the caliper?? im tryin to put the caliper back on after changing my pads, but the piston is out too far :-\, i tried stepping on the brake with the reservoir cap off and the piston just comes out further, i don't have a c-clamp is there any other alternative? please help me thanx in advance

 

vice grips

 

you try turning it back in yet?

 

You can use big pliers or put the caliper back on and pry against the piston with a pry bar or large screw driver. If you stepped on the brakes with the caliper off you most likely popped the piston out. If this happened make sure to gently replace it not cutting the seal and bleeding the brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use big pliers or put the caliper back on and pry against the piston with a pry bar or large screw driver. If you stepped on the brakes with the caliper off you most likely popped the piston out. If this happened make sure to gently replace it not cutting the seal and bleeding the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

replace the piston?? the piston isn't out all the way ... hmm vice grips i have those ... do i need to open the bleeder as i push the piston back in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jameskersten1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you try turning it back in yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried pushing it in manually with my hands, didn't work ... sun's almost going down im gonna try the vice grips, ... hopefully i won't be back for a while cuz i got it on and started to bleed my brakes

 

Are you trying to do the front or rear ones?

The front ones require a c-clamp while the tear ones need to be turned.

 

i just use my hands...slow but surely it goes back

 

the front ones ... i've tried pushing it with my hands ... im not a weak guy and it won't bidge ... it's still attached to the brake line and the bleeder valve is closed ... the reservoir cap is off ... could it be pressre related why it's not going back in perhaps?

 

o crap!! my dad had c-clamps he just pulled them outta his @$$ lol ... brb gonna go try now!!

 

yes, c-clamp is what you need.
if you open the bleed nipple, you can press it in with your hands

 

what is wrong with the good ol chanelocks?

 

A c-clamp will push it in in about 5 seconds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A c-clamp will push it in in about 5 seconds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. This is the best way

 

C-Clamp for pistons.

 

C clamp.

Cheap and can be helpful on other stuff.

 

i think channel locks are way easier than c-clamps... with c-clamps you have to sit there and turn and turn and turn until it goes in... with channel locks you just give it one good squeeze and its over

 

its all about the c-clamps

 

I use a big *** pair of channel locks.

 

I baught one similar to this...


but use these...

channel locks are the easiest for the job.

 

ok im all done ... don't think i bled right i used a vacuum tool i got from autozone ... i was seeing bubble everywhere :-\ my pedal is defintely a little softer than it was before but i do have brakes :-\ i drove around got up to about 60 n slammed on brakes ... they work just a little more effort ... i feel like such a nub ... o also i hear a noise sounds like from the driver side front where i put in a new caliper ... a continuous metal noise sounds like grinding ... :-\ it's there when i'm not even braking ... any suggestions? :-\ feel like i wasted time and money ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ibe2fly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok im all done ... don't think i bled right i used a vacuum tool i got from autozone ... i was seeing bubble everywhere :-\ my pedal is defintely a little softer than it was before but i do have brakes :-\ i drove around got up to about 60 n slammed on brakes ... they work just a little more effort ... i feel like such a nub ... o also i hear a noise sounds like from the driver side front where i put in a new caliper ... a continuous metal noise sounds like grinding ... :-\ it's there when i'm not even braking ... any suggestions? :-\ feel like i wasted time and money ... </TD></TR></TABLE>

do a search for how to bleed brakes the old fashioned way. I don't feel like typing it all up. You have air in your lines.

Bedding the brakes won't happen correctly if you hit 60 and slam them, on Honda's moving forward a few feet and pressing the pedal and then reverse and brake, repeat will seat them fast. then go out and do a couple of 35-10 controlled stops, then 65-35 a couple of times. then once you are about home and you are doing about 10 just jam them to see that they are gripping well. As far as the scraping goes, I'd bet you just have a dust shield rubbing the rotor. if you didn't use OEM pads the shims may have slid into the rotor hat.

 

if i were you i'd take it to a shop and have them look at it. i really dont reccomend doing brake work on your car is you have not previous expercence. Lack of brakes is dangerous... for example today at the West Michigan Honda Meet a CRX lost his brakes (faulty bleeder screw) and ending up doing 85 off the track... up a berm.. catching air and laned upside down about 15ft from the berm. The guys was smart tho and was away with a cut hand. My point... if you **** up your brake you could die or kill someone. My .02

 

check and make sure you didnt bend the backing plate so its rubbing on the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you trying to do the front or rear ones?

The front ones require a c-clamp while the tear ones need to be turned. </TD></TR></TABLE>