Shift linkage pin??
I have a 88 dx hatch that I bought like 2 months ago and I noticed that the shifter was very sloppy and loose when I bought it, didnt pay much attention and kept on driving it like that. The other day I decided to fix the problem bought some bushings and a short shifter from ebay and installed them but the problem was still there. So this past weekend I got under the car again and found out what the problem was. Its my bitch pin the linkage is really loose, the pin is there but I can move it really easy. Also the boot was all torn up, I guess the previous owner tried to take out the pin as well and gave up and now is all smahed up so the only way I could think of is to take it out is from the top by the rear engine mount. Do you guys have any idea on what can I use to take it out this way, and should I get a new linkage as well while im at it. The hole where the pin goes in the linkage looks very big compared to that little pin, does that mean my linkage is worn out or that's how is supposed to be. Thanks in advance.
He might have just messed the pin up real bad...but on my EX the shitfer rod was loose right at the pin, it wobbled pretty good where the rivet is. If you remove the bitch pin (8mm punch, some PB blast, and a big hammer) wiggle the end of the shift rod. If theres excessive play it'll need to be replaced. Otherwise grab a new bitch pin and see if it helps.
the hole should be the same size as the opening on the linkage.i put a screw in there then hammered it out. when i did my swap i replaced it with a new one from honda. only costed $1.39.
Where can I get one of those punches?? Also went to honda to order the pin the guy told me he had to order it and it was going to take a week to get it. He was like you know you could find it at any hardware store is just an 8X20 sring pin, is this true. Well im going to try napa tomorrow to see if they have the pin the pin
Get a bolt that holds the AC compressor to the block of any honda engine you have laying aroud or you can find. Next jack the car up as high as you can without it being unsteady. After all that, soak that pin in PB blaster and let it marinate for and hour or so. Finaly grab the biggest hammer you have, get under the car take the bolt you recently liberated form the AC compressor and put it right on the bottom of the pin, take a few deep breaths and hammer away at the pin with one hand holding the bolt in place and the other hammering like never before. If that dont work dont frett, take a break have a smoke and try again. Good Luck.
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If you have the right sized pin it's cake. And replace the pin every other time or so, it'll be worth it the next time you have to work on it. And yes, you can find them at any normal hardware store or auto shop.
How much would cost me to get a new shift linkage from honda, forgot to ask the guy when I was there anybody knows? or can I get it somewhere else cheaper maybe ebay im going to see.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88EFhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much would cost me to get a new shift linkage from honda, forgot to ask the guy when I was there anybody knows? or can I get it somewhere else cheaper maybe ebay im going to see.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I saw it from majestic http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for like $52 I think for the shifter rod. You dont need to replace your stabilizer.
I saw it from majestic http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for like $52 I think for the shifter rod. You dont need to replace your stabilizer.
eBay or classifieds on the Honda boards is a good place to start looking for the linkage if it turns out you really need it.
For the punch, I use a Craftsman 1/4" roll-pin punch. It's worked like a charm for over 7 years.
Many will say it's not the right size, but I've never had a single problem with it. The only problem I have with the "bitch pin" any more is getting the car high enough off the ground to get a good swing with a 5-pound sledge, and with getting the pin to move that first little bit. Once it STARTS moving, it comes out with a few more taps.
The 1/4" roll-pin punch is perfect for the job. It fits fine in the hole through the shift linkage and the shaft on the tranny, and it doesn't slip inside the hole in the bitch pin and spread it out like a pin punch will (thus making it TIGHTER in the hole, and HARDER to get out!). Sears sells the punch for about $5.99. As a time and labor saver, it'd be cheap at twice the price!
Mike
For the punch, I use a Craftsman 1/4" roll-pin punch. It's worked like a charm for over 7 years.
Many will say it's not the right size, but I've never had a single problem with it. The only problem I have with the "bitch pin" any more is getting the car high enough off the ground to get a good swing with a 5-pound sledge, and with getting the pin to move that first little bit. Once it STARTS moving, it comes out with a few more taps.The 1/4" roll-pin punch is perfect for the job. It fits fine in the hole through the shift linkage and the shaft on the tranny, and it doesn't slip inside the hole in the bitch pin and spread it out like a pin punch will (thus making it TIGHTER in the hole, and HARDER to get out!). Sears sells the punch for about $5.99. As a time and labor saver, it'd be cheap at twice the price!
Mike
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