Burning Oil
O.k. my car is definatly burning oil. It smokes badly during acceleration, but only after it reaches op.temp. I have no performance loss and the compression is 180 in all four cylinders. I'm praying that it is not the rings so is there anything else to check. Thanks in advannce for any input.
ok i checked my pcv valve changed it and it didnt do anything. i'm wondering if its not my valve seals. it smokes all the time more at higher load but all the time. ive heard that valve seals only smoke on deccelaration (spelling?) so im not sure. Also all four spark plugs have the same amount of oil on the threads. the smoke is so bad i need to figure this out so i can fix it.
Im trust me im burning way more than normal. Infact a quart every 50 miles or so. You should see the cloud that trails me. Im not driving it for now though.
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No how difficult is it? Its going to be a pain taking the head off again. I just finish my auto to manual swap doing all my own work. Bam blown head gasket. fixed that now a week later this. I have a helms but I dont know how much help it is dont have it on hand. Also how much smoke would this produce and would it be all the time? Thanks for the help.
If I'm correct, you should be able to do without taking the head off.
1st you will need shop air or compress air
2nd you will need the spark plug air adapter which will go in place of the spark plug
3rd you will need take the valve cover off, take the lifter and cam of. you will need a valve spring compressor tool.
4th now you will to use air and maybe about 30psi all the time into your cyclinder head. leave you compressor on. "very important" you will have to turn the crank pulley with tool untill the valve are close. If you are changing the #1 now take the spring off and lock out. and replace the valve seal one at a time. dose not matter if you change exhaust or in 1st.
5th now move to the next one. do the same turn the crank some the valve a close and change them.
Just remember with air the crank will be tight to move and might move, so just make sure the valve is close
1st you will need shop air or compress air
2nd you will need the spark plug air adapter which will go in place of the spark plug
3rd you will need take the valve cover off, take the lifter and cam of. you will need a valve spring compressor tool.
4th now you will to use air and maybe about 30psi all the time into your cyclinder head. leave you compressor on. "very important" you will have to turn the crank pulley with tool untill the valve are close. If you are changing the #1 now take the spring off and lock out. and replace the valve seal one at a time. dose not matter if you change exhaust or in 1st.
5th now move to the next one. do the same turn the crank some the valve a close and change them.
Just remember with air the crank will be tight to move and might move, so just make sure the valve is close
well if you have go compression and 100% sure that your rings are good. I would change them. I don't see where esle can it be leaking. one more thing how hi miles of an egine we talking about?
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