Is there a wire to wire something in so that the ECU doesnt know that you took out the EGR? I know that with the Toyota MR2 you can wire a resister across the 2 terminals and then you wont get a CEL... is there something like this with the H22?

Thanks

 

bump

 

not that i know of. and from what my friend has researched, you cant chip out the egr from the ecu either, and he programs ecu's and chips them on the side. what i did when i pulled my egr was switch to a p72 from the p13. p72 doesnt have egr, so you dont have to worry about it. i dont throw any codes at all, and now wer are just workin on gettin my gas mileage as good as possible with a bunch of different programs and chisp for the ecu.

 

You could also look into using CROME, it has the ability to disable the EGR along with other things.

 

Or you could have voltage going to the wire for the egr and you'll be on your way.
It's probably somewhere in the .05 v range like other sensors.

 

why would you want to take out your EGR? Horsepower gains? you wont get any...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer9k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you want to take out your EGR? Horsepower gains? you wont get any...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you won't see horsepower gains. The EGR actually helps cool down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98HB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could also look into using CROME, it has the ability to disable the EGR along with other things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or get a chipped p28. it'll never look for egr.

 

In order to avoid a CEL you need to leave the EGR hooked up. Just make a block-plate and you wont get recirculation, but the EGR itself has to stay plugged in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer9k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you want to take out your EGR? Horsepower gains? you wont get any...</TD></TR></TABLE>

cause i dont like additional components and complications when its not needed. I would rather take it out and have a cleaner looking bay with more space to work and less clutter.

 

you can do it what you need is a relay and a 0-5k ohm rheostat from radio shack. Now on the drivers side tower where the egr solenoid is located, you will see the plug from the ECU that operates the EGR solenoid to allow vacuum to go to the EGR valve. On top of the egr valve is also a plug for the lift sensor.

Wire your relay so that instead of going to the solenoid, it goes to the coil of the relay. Cut the wire going to the ECU for the EGR lift sensor. Then wire the relay so that the wire on the pole goes to the EGR life sensor wire going to the ecu and the normally closed position is wired to the EGR lift sensor wire going to the sensor itself. Then the position that is actuated needs to be tied to the Rheostat set at about 2200 ohms and then after that needs to be spliced into the EGR lift sensor's 5v wire.

There and WALA, no more CEL for a non-working EGR. This is a lot easier to do right at the ECU. If you have a Pin readout of the ecu wires, then do this right there and you won't have to run any wires across the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Qveon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can do it what you need is a relay and a 0-5k ohm rheostat from radio shack. Now on the drivers side tower where the egr solenoid is located, you will see the plug from the ECU that operates the EGR solenoid to allow vacuum to go to the EGR valve. On top of the egr valve is also a plug for the lift sensor.

Wire your relay so that instead of going to the solenoid, it goes to the coil of the relay. Cut the wire going to the ECU for the EGR lift sensor. Then wire the relay so that the wire on the pole goes to the EGR life sensor wire going to the ecu and the normally closed position is wired to the EGR lift sensor wire going to the sensor itself. Then the position that is actuated needs to be tied to the Rheostat set at about 2200 ohms and then after that needs to be spliced into the EGR lift sensor's 5v wire.

There and WALA, no more CEL for a non-working EGR. This is a lot easier to do right at the ECU. If you have a Pin readout of the ecu wires, then do this right there and you won't have to run any wires across the engine bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if someone can confirm that this works, it should go in a FAQ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red92si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In order to avoid a CEL you need to leave the EGR hooked up. Just make a block-plate and you wont get recirculation, but the EGR itself has to stay plugged in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong....the inadequate lift code will pop up....you ought to get some ems capable of removing it....

 

Actually i am using this method right now cause my solenoid does not work and i didn't want to pay $100+ to get a new one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong....the inadequate lift code will pop up....you ought to get some ems capable of removing it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is only for obd2, for obd1 it will work fine as described above....

 

j/w .. are these emissions by-pass mods only good till your need emissions tesT?

 

there isn't any emmisions testing where i live

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if someone can confirm that this works, it should go in a FAQ. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can remember people saying that this would work probably almost a year ago...

 

It should work, all your computer needs is to see is that the voltage is being applied, then you can fool it making it think its working.

Good write up, Qveon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red92si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In order to avoid a CEL you need to leave the EGR hooked up. Just make a block-plate and you wont get recirculation, but the EGR itself has to stay plugged in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep mine has been done for a wile and no cel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECRaZeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually you won't see horsepower gains. The EGR actually helps cool down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, but i do not see any reason why to take out the EGR...it only opens at a cruise, and it wont open when the engine is cold, idle, or WOT....so i see no point in taking it off when it wont even open at WOT. and yes it uses exhaust gasses that cannot be re-burned to keep the combustion chamber temperatures down because NOx is fromed at 2500 degrees.

 

if you have egr stock, its no big deal, but when you swap the motor it usually gets left off. thats why people block it off or run diff ecu's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECRaZeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should work, all your computer needs is to see is that the voltage is being applied, then you can fool it making it think its working.

Good write up, Qveon </TD></TR></TABLE>
You guys are welcome.

UPDATED THREAD:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1565091


Modified by Qveon at 10:15 PM 4/30/2006