last week I had the chance to make a few runs on the dyno with my 11.7 compression lsvtec with skunk stage 2 cams. My best pull dynoed at 164.2 whp(untune) on a dynomax. I was running on a chipped skunk ecu with the vtec engagment set at 5200 rpm and stock injectors . The tunner told me that I could've gain an extra 10-12 hp just by setting my vtec higher. Can you guys tell me if this is a good starting point?

 

Well you could have tried. Why not have something to tune your af, at least a vafc.

After a while, I bet you'll tell us that you were able to reach 200whp like everyone here.

 

Go with a chipped p28 and uberdata, and wake up your engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 327da9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with a chipped p28 and uberdata, and wake up your engine

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would it change it so much tho? what do you think the increase would be?

 

I also am running a chipped P72 on my LsVtec and my vtec is set @ 4400 which is way too low, I can tell because when I get on the car @ 1/2 throttle as compared to wot, its much faster because @ 1/2 throttle vtec engages @ 51 instead of 4400 due to load difference.

So my question is should I get a vafc II so I can adjust it or will a piggy back not do me much of any good?

 

my vtec engagement is too low becuase whenever I get on it, it'll bog real hard until it reaches higher rpms(56-5800) then it'll start to pull.

I didn't have one or wanted to mess with vtec controllers. Also, I just got my hondata and injectors in. Hopefully It'll make some noticeable differences this time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaFly_Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't have one or wanted to mess with vtec controllers. Also, I just got my hondata and injectors in. Hopefully It'll make some noticeable differences this time </TD></TR></TABLE>


keep us...or at least me updated man. I'd like to see how much the hondata and injectors help out

 

What kind of header, TB and intake manifold do you have?

You can make around up to 190whp with an lsvtec with just stock OEM components.

Stock injectors are fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JerseySiPOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of header, TB and intake manifold do you have?

You can make around up to 190whp with an lsvtec with just stock OEM components.

Stock injectors are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm using a jdm dc header with a 64mm tb and aebs manifold.

 

The gain from tuning varies from engine to engine, but when you build an ls/vtec there is no real ideal fuel map for the engine that is built. So in order to maximize its effiency it needs to be tuned, i just went recommended uberdata because its free and pretty easy to use, although hondata works well too.

Every engine is different and to say how much gain you would pick up from tuning would be difficult to say. But there was a thread here about a month ago where this guy had an ls/vtec untuned that put down about 140 whp and after tuning he hit about 170whp. I dotn remember the exact numbers but it was somewhere along a 30whp increase with tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaFly_Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm using a jdm dc header with a 64mm tb and aebs manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, i think the JDM dc header is fine. I just think with your TB/mani combo, it might suffer from about 5000-6500 rpms. I like the aebs manifold though.

Hopefully everything is ok mechanically ok. With that combo, i would try to make the most average hp from 6000-9000 rpms. If you used ctr cams or BC3 cams, a B16 throttle body and p30 manifold would work well. You can see at least 140 tq with that setup.

 

Same with my LSVTEC, it bogs @ WOT but when I ease on it and vtec engages @ 51 its wayyyy faster, think im gonna get a vafc to tune it seeing that I already spent 200 on a chipped p72...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JerseySiPOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hopefully everything is ok mechanically ok..</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm glad you brought this up. I had been having a idle problem ever since I put this overbore TB on. Everything time I gently press on the gas pedal my Idle would drop.
It would drop so low that some times the engine would cut off. But if I put more force on the gas, it'll be fine. This is a problem I can't figure out. I used a multimeter gauge to check my TPS and it seems fine. Though I think I should just go ahead and replace the tps itself just to make sure.. I checked all my hose for leaks and found nothing. Also, I have replaced both the IACV and Fast Idle and still nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaFly_Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm glad you brought this up. I had been having a idle problem ever since I put this overbore TB on. Everything time I gently press on the gas pedal my Idle would drop.
It would drop so low that some times the engine would cut off. But if I put more force on the gas, it'll be fine. This is a problem I can't figure out. I used a multimeter gauge to check my TPS and it seems fine. Though I think I should just go ahead and replace the tps itself just to make sure.. I checked all my hose for leaks and found nothing. Also, I have replaced both the IACV and Fast Idle and still nothing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's just your map sensor going haywire.... because of the bigger TB and manifold. You just have to lean out the fuel mix at idle to 14.7 or leaner so it doesn't stall. Other than that, i just think you have to tune. With your combo, tune for the most average hp between 6000-9000 rpms. JMO