Cams for my b18a?, aftermarket or some type of other?.... :\
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Like it says, what kind should i get, or to say would Fit!?. Does anyone know if the ITR or CTR cams would fit and be a better idea to get installed, or should i just get some decent aftermarket cams?. Btw this is for b18 motors im askin about.
Put your flame suit on
dohc vtec cams will not fit in your engine, what you do want to do is search for crower cams, they seem to be amongst the most popular manufacturer for non-vtec cams.
dohc vtec cams will not fit in your engine, what you do want to do is search for crower cams, they seem to be amongst the most popular manufacturer for non-vtec cams.
crowers are probably the best/most aggressive that you'll find out there for LS motors. i have 403's... they're ok. you have to remember to choose the cam for your build. you can't just put 405a's in and think your motor will recognize the potential of the cam. you'll also have a ton of reversion and be idling all over the board, it'll sound so rough plus it'll be spitting raw fuel out at idle... not good. i suggest calling crower (or whatever cam company you choose) before you order the cam set and ask them what cam they think is correct for your setup. this way you will see the full potential of the cam on your setup and quite possibly get to a higher peak number and definitely a flatter curve.
remember when buying upgraded cams to follow the cam manufacturers instructions on extra parts you will have to buy to support the cams. its alot more money putting cams in a car than just the 600 dollars it costs to buy the cams. dont forget about such things as cam cap bolts and possibly some new head components (due to wear). you'll most likely need vavle springs and retainers. then after you get done you'll also want to get the car on a dyno.
people often confuse what dyno tuning does, not only does it flatten a curve and make more continuous power, it flat out makes the engine run better. this will give your engine a better life span.
make sure to research.
notes: crower cams = good
follow manufacturer's directions
get dyno tuned.
remember when buying upgraded cams to follow the cam manufacturers instructions on extra parts you will have to buy to support the cams. its alot more money putting cams in a car than just the 600 dollars it costs to buy the cams. dont forget about such things as cam cap bolts and possibly some new head components (due to wear). you'll most likely need vavle springs and retainers. then after you get done you'll also want to get the car on a dyno.
people often confuse what dyno tuning does, not only does it flatten a curve and make more continuous power, it flat out makes the engine run better. this will give your engine a better life span.
make sure to research.
notes: crower cams = good
follow manufacturer's directions
get dyno tuned.
Send me a PM. I have some Crower Stage 3 LS cams for sale. I can get you hooked up on them cheap 
But ya, you need aftermarket cams for non-Vtec engines. The only high-lift ones available are aftermarket.

But ya, you need aftermarket cams for non-Vtec engines. The only high-lift ones available are aftermarket.
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Eh....nobody likes to post in my threads, cause there so lame i guess...lol.
But anyways i can't buy stage 3 crower cams from you right now, but maybe some time down the road later on, that is if you still got em.
So basically everyones opinion here is to get a set of crowers?, ill prob just get stage 1, nothing too crazy...
But anyways i can't buy stage 3 crower cams from you right now, but maybe some time down the road later on, that is if you still got em.
So basically everyones opinion here is to get a set of crowers?, ill prob just get stage 1, nothing too crazy...
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I would first upgrade valvetrain to help that engine breath. One of my friends who is runing stage 2 cams had upgraded valvetrain and nitrous on his LS. He revs up to 8k easily no problems at all and it pulls like an mother. First valvetrain then cams the stock internals won't hold up on an aggressive cam.... I know this first hand.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidouninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would first upgrade valvetrain to help that engine breath. One of my friends who is runing stage 2 cams had upgraded valvetrain and nitrous on his LS. He revs up to 8k easily no problems at all and it pulls like an mother. First valvetrain then cams the stock internals won't hold up on an aggressive cam.... I know this first hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess you've never built an engine in your life.
8k rpm in an LS needs alot more work than just a valve train. the valve train will not help the engine breath (i know there are .5mm over valves from crower but on stock lift/duration with stock head cast ie. no port work, they wont do you very good). to get the engine breathing it takes very well designed and reasearched port work, compression, and the right cam selection. the cam also has to be degreed and timed in with the engine.
crower 401's are not a cam that i recommend. they are not worth the money in my opinion. 403's would honestly be your best bet even if you're on stock compression. 401's are close to a stock replacement cam, that doesn't get you anywhere hardly. i really advise you to save for 403's and the crower springs + retainers. 403's can give you the best of both worlds, they are aggressive enough to run some moderate compression but not too aggressive to where you couldn't turbocharge the motor later on. 403's idle stock, i know from personal experince, they are the cams i have. 404's idle pretty stock especially if they're degreed to a decent idle (take away lobe seperation). 404's are more of an all motor grind though and they do require a higher compression then stock but are still a great street cam. 405a's are the race cam, they require compressions that almost dont run on race gas and they will give a lumpy idle if you dont have the compression to compensate for the reversion.
like i said before... research and save for the right parts.
i guess you've never built an engine in your life.
8k rpm in an LS needs alot more work than just a valve train. the valve train will not help the engine breath (i know there are .5mm over valves from crower but on stock lift/duration with stock head cast ie. no port work, they wont do you very good). to get the engine breathing it takes very well designed and reasearched port work, compression, and the right cam selection. the cam also has to be degreed and timed in with the engine.
crower 401's are not a cam that i recommend. they are not worth the money in my opinion. 403's would honestly be your best bet even if you're on stock compression. 401's are close to a stock replacement cam, that doesn't get you anywhere hardly. i really advise you to save for 403's and the crower springs + retainers. 403's can give you the best of both worlds, they are aggressive enough to run some moderate compression but not too aggressive to where you couldn't turbocharge the motor later on. 403's idle stock, i know from personal experince, they are the cams i have. 404's idle pretty stock especially if they're degreed to a decent idle (take away lobe seperation). 404's are more of an all motor grind though and they do require a higher compression then stock but are still a great street cam. 405a's are the race cam, they require compressions that almost dont run on race gas and they will give a lumpy idle if you dont have the compression to compensate for the reversion.
like i said before... research and save for the right parts.
There are tons of options out there.
..sorry to hear about bad experience with crower, but i havent heard anything bad, i was recommended their turbo cams.
anyway- dont forget- Web Cams, JG, TODA (not sure if they make non vtec), JUN.
lots of people are bound to have these used, or get them new anyways.
..sorry to hear about bad experience with crower, but i havent heard anything bad, i was recommended their turbo cams.
anyway- dont forget- Web Cams, JG, TODA (not sure if they make non vtec), JUN.
lots of people are bound to have these used, or get them new anyways.
crower still has the best non-vtec cam (by best i mean has the most selection and the most aggerssive profiles). toda and jun dont even offer non-vtec stuff.
crane, web and crower will all make custom grinds if you like. as long as you know how you want the cam setup.
crane, web and crower will all make custom grinds if you like. as long as you know how you want the cam setup.
i would suggest crower 404s for any ls build. sure it idles sorta lumpy but invest in some adjustable cam gears and you can always tune that out(read about LSAs). personally i'm running 404s right now on my built 2.0LS and loving it! of course it's still untuned(dyno) since i'm still slowly breaking in the motor but i have taken her to redline (8200) once or twice and let me tell you, you can feel the difference when you compare these to other lower spec cams.
No dude I know how to build engines... at least I hope since I am building my LS/Vtec. and secondly learn to read I am telling you what my friend said. The whole point to my post was put in good valvetrain with cams or your valvetrain won't last. Jeez.... and yes my friends LS will rev up to 8k and he has dual valves, springs, retainers, and stage 2 crower cams. I have witnessed it first hand.
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