This is a 2000 ITR Block I bought yesterday. I talked to my friend who is a mechanic, and he told me it should be fine, but I thought I would get some opinions on here.

Here are 3 pics.

1st pic, in the center of that rectangle there is a crack that runs left to right. I believe it is from the block being flipped and rolled over. When it was rolled over that tab at the end bent and formed a small crack. My friend looked at it and told me that it is far away enough from the coolant passage that it should be fine.


2nd pic, whoever was removing it stripped all 3 bolt holes and left 1 in there. He told me he could take it out and fix it, but the machine shop or whoever I take the block to should be able to handle it. It looks pretty bad, but if they know what they are doing it should be alright. As long as you got a bolt extractor kit and a few other things.


3rd pic. Here is a closeup of the tab I am talkin about. I drew a line to illustrate where the crack is and what direction it goes.


Let me know what you think. Everything else is fine, such as the sleeves and etc. But I am going to get it resleeved anyways. I took it apart tonight and it looks like it spun a rod bearing #1. So I bought a Type-R crank to replace the screwed up one.

Thanks guys!


[Modified by BodyKits NW, 5:21 PM 2/10/2002]

 

should be able to get it welded up, ive seen complete engine mounts rewelded to the block and then re tapped. Anythings possible with $$$

 

If any of the marks on the crank from the spun rod bearing will catch your fingernail, then the crank is garbage. Anyone that tells you that it can be turned or welded is full of it. Once a Honda crank is damaged, nothing in the world will fix it good as new.

 

I'll have to check the crank in the morning, but I noticed one thing on both the cranks I have. There is a line that u can feel on both of them on the same spot where the flywheels side cover. There is a gasket there, I believe that is from normal wear, but I could be wrong. I believe on some cars thats what they call the rear main seal. I have seen something very similar on other cranks.


[Modified by BodyKits NW, 12:41 AM 2/10/2002]

 

TTT

 

You are correct about the rear main seal. Don;t worry about that groove. It is perfectly normal, and as long as it doesn't get so deep (probably take about 1/2 million miles before that happens) that the seal looses contact, you'll be fine.

 

so wasteful.... sleeving a perfectly good block....

 

Why? If you were going to resleeve it anyway, why not get a cheaper block like a b16, b18, b20 that has already cracked a piston and scarred up the cylinder walls?

 

Hmm, I always thought there was no difference between the B18C5 and B18C block?

 

I got the whole shortblock for under 300.00 Legit, had state patrol run the numbers. Enough said.

That should answer your question why I bought and chose the b18c1 and 5 block. And I am resleeving it because I am going to run boost, about 15-20psi. I also have a 2000 GSR block I am resleeving too which I got for 275.00, but it has a cracked sleeve.

As far as my 2000 Type-R motor if I made it all motor, I would have it resleeved anyways because I would go atleast 85mm.

If I got a b16 and resleeved it for a all motor application it would not even be a 1.8 liter with a 84-85mm bore. Why get a b16. As for the b20, I don't really care for that motor even for all motor applications. I rather get a b18c5 and bore it out and feel comfortable knowing it can handle it's revs. I got a few reasons why I went this route. But mostly because the price.


[Modified by BodyKits NW, 5:19 PM 2/10/2002]

 

Stupid Censor