fuel filter
They do need to be replaced, but not very often. I would change it every 50-60k miles. Hae your mechanic know that its necessary sometimes depending on the gas you use, there is always build up!
btw --- who is your mechanic? Stevie Wonder?
btw --- who is your mechanic? Stevie Wonder?
If it has never been changed, I would recommend changing it. I know it was a pain in the *** to change the filter in my '90 EX. I don't know how difficult it is in a '95 though. It is possible for a novice mechanic.
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he is been a tech for 17 years ??? man your mechanic is full of **** ,,, trust me on this replace the filter every 60k ,,try flipping one upside down and see the color of the fuel i gurantee you wont like what you see
ya, wife's got same car... i have to do this soon as well since i dunno about the maintenance record of this auction vehicle.
i looked @ the placement & looks like a pain for the back fitting near the firewall. other than using flare wrenches, any tricks you guys know before tackling this yourself? pull fuel pump fuse & crank engine to depressurize system, open gas cap, then remove filter & replace...can i use a bit of anti-seize on the threads/ or is this a bad idea?
i had a purolator brand fuel filter that clogged up prematurely ~42,ooo miles on a nissan 240sx (my car)...
i looked @ the placement & looks like a pain for the back fitting near the firewall. other than using flare wrenches, any tricks you guys know before tackling this yourself? pull fuel pump fuse & crank engine to depressurize system, open gas cap, then remove filter & replace...can i use a bit of anti-seize on the threads/ or is this a bad idea?
i had a purolator brand fuel filter that clogged up prematurely ~42,ooo miles on a nissan 240sx (my car)...
indead, the fuel filter can be a PITA. When my motor was out of the Accord I replaced the fuel filter and it was a pain even then. When I helped a friend do his fuel filter, when we did his timing belt, I bought a set a crow-feet. Put the correct size on a long extension and reached in from between the firewall and the rear beam of the front subframe. Came free quite easily that way. Found it much easier that time then when I did mine with the motor out, go figure
. I used regular crow-feet but you could use flare wrench style crow-feet as well.
. I used regular crow-feet but you could use flare wrench style crow-feet as well.
ahh, so i haveta be under the car to do it that way? i don't have a crowfoot set as well; thought i can get by w/ my metric flare wrenches... ho-hum...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricebike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thought i can get by w/ my metric flare wrenches..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't try. The space there is no limited that it'll be near impossible if not impossible. I would use the crow-feet. Just take a look from the top of you engine and you'll see how little space you have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord95Lxxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a big PITA, a local shop will do it for like 30$</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a good deal. But after using the crow-feet and finding it much easier that way, I would take that $30 and buy the crow-feet set and do it myself. Then you have that croow-feet set for anything else you need them for later on. But if you just don't feel like doing it or just don't have the time, the $30 will be well spent to have someone else do it and for you not to worry.
I wouldn't try. The space there is no limited that it'll be near impossible if not impossible. I would use the crow-feet. Just take a look from the top of you engine and you'll see how little space you have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord95Lxxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a big PITA, a local shop will do it for like 30$</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a good deal. But after using the crow-feet and finding it much easier that way, I would take that $30 and buy the crow-feet set and do it myself. Then you have that croow-feet set for anything else you need them for later on. But if you just don't feel like doing it or just don't have the time, the $30 will be well spent to have someone else do it and for you not to worry.
yo touring i dont know what kind of tools you use but $ 30 is not going to get you much in tools unless you by them at k-mart $ 30 for the crow foot set??? + you need a long extension, the wretchet, 17mm socket for upper bolt, 10mm socket for mounting bolt ,,,
,Accord95
my advice since you do those every 60k or so mmmm 3-5 years have a mechanic do it,, like someone said it might cost you 30-40 dollars
,Accord95
my advice since you do those every 60k or so mmmm 3-5 years have a mechanic do it,, like someone said it might cost you 30-40 dollars
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yo touring i dont know what kind of tools you use but $ 30 is not going to get you much in tools unless you by them at k-mart $ 30 for the crow foot set??? + you need a long extension, the wretchet, 17mm socket for upper bolt, 10mm socket for mounting bolt </TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, hold on there.
First of all, lets not challenge the tools I use. I only buy Craftsman. I like snap-on too but they are to hard replace if something breaks, so I stick with Craftsman since they have many stores in the area.
Second, if you look back at my post, I said "take that $30 and buy the crow-feet set". If you go look at the Craftsman website you'll see that a crowfoot set costs $38, I want to say I bought mine and a couple days later they went on sale for like $30 so I went back and got a refund to match the sale price. (Sears will refund you the difference as long as it's within 30 days of purchase for anyone that didn't know
) I didn't say anything about buying other tools.
Yes, I did assume he had atleast a basic tool set which should include a rachet and the needed sockets. I admit I shouldn't have assumed that but most people on this site do work on there cars and have some sort or tool set. So maybe add about another $10 for a long 3/8" drive extension if you don't already own one.
So if you don't find the tools on sale like I was able to, you're talking about $50 (for a set of crowfeet and a long extension) to do the job yourself. Thats assuming you already have a rachet, the needed sockets, jack and jack stands.
wow, hold on there.
First of all, lets not challenge the tools I use. I only buy Craftsman. I like snap-on too but they are to hard replace if something breaks, so I stick with Craftsman since they have many stores in the area.
Second, if you look back at my post, I said "take that $30 and buy the crow-feet set". If you go look at the Craftsman website you'll see that a crowfoot set costs $38, I want to say I bought mine and a couple days later they went on sale for like $30 so I went back and got a refund to match the sale price. (Sears will refund you the difference as long as it's within 30 days of purchase for anyone that didn't know
) I didn't say anything about buying other tools.Yes, I did assume he had atleast a basic tool set which should include a rachet and the needed sockets. I admit I shouldn't have assumed that but most people on this site do work on there cars and have some sort or tool set. So maybe add about another $10 for a long 3/8" drive extension if you don't already own one.
So if you don't find the tools on sale like I was able to, you're talking about $50 (for a set of crowfeet and a long extension) to do the job yourself. Thats assuming you already have a rachet, the needed sockets, jack and jack stands.
yo touring i was in no way trying to insult you or attack you personally on the tools you use i was merely tryin to say that 30 dollars nowdays does not buy you much at all . to me a set is from 10mm up to 22mm i still find it hard to believe that it only cost $ 30 i guess i did not realize that a set would go that cheap .i am sorry if you felt offended i guess i had poor choise of words ..
no offence was taken. I know tools can be expensive. But I look at it as an investment. I buy tools as I do a job and need them. Then if I ever need to do that job again I have the tools to do it and that makes the job cost less for me the next time. Even if a shop quotes me 800 to do a job, if I can buy the parts for 300-400 and then I need some special tools that will cost me say 200, I'm not only saving money but I now have the tools I need to it again or for use on something else. Plus the knowledge which is priceless
, sorry couldn't resist.
The set of crowfeet I bought went from 10mm to 19mm. I can't really think of anything I'm going to need bigger than a 19mm for. You can buy a a set of of standard and metric for $60 but you lose the 18mm and 1" crowfeet.
Also, I just went onto the Craftsman website and found this set of crowfeet for real cheap and it comes with a free 6" extension. Anyone thinking about buying a set of crowfeet should take this while it lasts.
, sorry couldn't resist.The set of crowfeet I bought went from 10mm to 19mm. I can't really think of anything I'm going to need bigger than a 19mm for. You can buy a a set of of standard and metric for $60 but you lose the 18mm and 1" crowfeet.
Also, I just went onto the Craftsman website and found this set of crowfeet for real cheap and it comes with a free 6" extension. Anyone thinking about buying a set of crowfeet should take this while it lasts.
man, i bought a 3/8th ten inch extender and the **** was 17 bucks! Craftsman is awesome though!
But back to the subject at hand, let me tell you, getting that damn fuel filter out was a pain in the *** and i couldnt get it out at the expense of stripping my knuckles <---- stupid, yes, i know...
regardless, ive heard that some people have relocated where the filter sits, how hard is that to do? Someone told me that if you relocate it, the ease of changing it out decreases exponentially?
But back to the subject at hand, let me tell you, getting that damn fuel filter out was a pain in the *** and i couldnt get it out at the expense of stripping my knuckles <---- stupid, yes, i know...
regardless, ive heard that some people have relocated where the filter sits, how hard is that to do? Someone told me that if you relocate it, the ease of changing it out decreases exponentially?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Confuc1ous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man, i bought a 3/8th ten inch extender and the **** was 17 bucks! Craftsman is awesome though!</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? I just saw a 3/8" drive 20" extension on their site for $13.99 (maybe it was on sale though) and I think I only paid like $20 for a 1/2" drive 20" extension.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Confuc1ous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless, ive heard that some people have relocated where the filter sits, how hard is that to do? Someone told me that if you relocate it, the ease of changing it out decreases exponentially?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I've seen some posts on here where people discussed relocating them. I stopped looking into it when I totalled my Accord so I'm not real sure what people used or where they put them. But basically you want to relocate you fuel filter so that it is located somewhere with easier access, where ever you feel that is. Like on my 92 hatch, the fuel filter is located high on the firewall between the intake manifold and the battery. Thats where it came from the factory, it's easy to replace it.
really? I just saw a 3/8" drive 20" extension on their site for $13.99 (maybe it was on sale though) and I think I only paid like $20 for a 1/2" drive 20" extension.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Confuc1ous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless, ive heard that some people have relocated where the filter sits, how hard is that to do? Someone told me that if you relocate it, the ease of changing it out decreases exponentially?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I've seen some posts on here where people discussed relocating them. I stopped looking into it when I totalled my Accord so I'm not real sure what people used or where they put them. But basically you want to relocate you fuel filter so that it is located somewhere with easier access, where ever you feel that is. Like on my 92 hatch, the fuel filter is located high on the firewall between the intake manifold and the battery. Thats where it came from the factory, it's easy to replace it.
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Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Nov 14, 2018 07:15 PM





