I deformed the screw post on the right lower front ball joint (the part that sticks throught he hole on the lower control arm) while using a 2-jaw puller to remove it for a clutch repair procedure I was doing last week. The end of the screw post, just past the holes for the cotter pin, is bulged from the incredible pressures I had to use, so now the castle nut won't thread back onto the post. I even think the cotter pin holes have been collapsed somewhat, so that the pins may not be able to pass through anymore.

Anyway, I think this means the lower ball joint should be replaced. The Haynes Manual is sketchy on this. It says I should take off the entire steering knuckle and bring it to a dealership where they have specialized tools to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. I think the ball is pressed into the knuckle. Is that right? Has anyone out there done a repair like this? What is needed in the way of tools? Can this be done with a C-clamp in my driveway, or does it take a hydraulic press in a machine shop? Please advise. -------Gary Kramer

 

well, if it were me, i'd see what shape the actual joint was in, because if it's like new, i'd fix the threads.

you take the circlip off the bottom of the balljoint, the dustshield off the axle surround (if you haven't yet, people do for b series swaps usually) and then you're supposed to use a hydraulic press to push it out. i don't know how easy it'd be with a clamp, especially if it's been in there for years.

maybe try a little heat around it to bring the hole it's in bigger? or would the heat mess with the tempering of the knuckle?

 

place new balljoints in frezer, remove steering knuckle from car, remove snap ring from bottom of balljoint, hit balljoint with a bfh, heat your balljoint housing with a propane torch, nothing crazy, just enough to expand thr housing, remove balljoints from freezer, spray with wd40, find a socket that will fit the lip on the balljoint, reinstall with a few hits from the bfh. I have done this plenty of times, takes me about 15 minutes per side. Give yourself 2 hours if this is your first time


Modified by PURPLETERROR at 6:55 PM 6/4/2005

 

holy crap you go thru a lot of trouble to press a balljoint in.

you bang the old one out, and you can use a c clamp (and some socket or whatever) to press the new one in. pretty much done.

also, you need to take the hub ring out. its also press fit in around the hub. it gets in the way of the balljoint. its kind of a pain to press fit it back in. you have to find sometihng big enough so that you can put an even pressure around the whole circumference of the ring, or it wont stay in well at all. if you hear high pitch, kinda tinny, rattling noises when youre done and driving around, it came out...

yeah, sounds like you realy need to replace that balljoint. you probably used the tool that pushes the screw up under the balljoint and latches on the sides. i dont use any special tools when taking out my balljoints. (after trying them ALL) i just use a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle, where theres meat and a little nub sticking out. a few whacks and the balljoint always separates cleanly.

 

Oh man, sorry to hear about your balljoint problem.
I went through EXACTLY the same thing as you 2-3 months ago.
In fact, Tyson gave me a few tips since he also had the same routine before.

I tried:
- BFHammer to LCA
- PB Blaster "swimming pool"
- Propane torch
- The "stick a socket wrench body into the gap and jack down the car so it pops" trick
- The "use hydraulic jack to push up against balljoint" trick"
- Pitman arm puller tool thing (the one you used)
- 3 friends who had done countless balljoint removals tried their hands to no luck either. All 3 were astounded and said "looks like you just happened to get a really really stuck balljoint dude"

None of these methods worked.
So, I removed the entire knuckle (upper part + balljoint + LCA) and took it to a local machine shop. They charged me around $40 (IIRC) to press it out and pop a new one in.

Don't forget to pick up new cotter pins

 

i replaced my lower ball joint last week on my dc2!,took me about 2 hours with 2 friends. i took off the steering knuckle(spindle) includes removing upper control arm,tie rod,brake line, axle,and lca.i flipped the whole spindle upside down,and start pounding the ball joint for about 20 times,then it popped right out.i then placed the new ball joint in the knuckle and popped it right in with a hammer(i used an axle size socket,so the hammer wont damage the new ball joint).once it was inside the knuckle,i used a nose tweezer to put on the clip or clamp right above the boot,and that was it. i got this tip from a tech at school,so i hope this helps.

p.s machine shop is not needed.

 

****, that still sounds like a lot of work. I need to replace mine too since I ruined the boots on both with a pickle fork years ago