TPS adjustment
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From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
TPS adjustment
so i've been having some light throttle "jerkyness" and decided to check my TPS adjustment.
Before adjusting it was at .52 so i set it a factory spec (.45) and now its worse than before??!!
WTF should i try a different setting or just get a new TPS? I've heard of some cars being factory set at .35 so i might try that and if not try like .60 or something...
Any help would be great, thanks!
Before adjusting it was at .52 so i set it a factory spec (.45) and now its worse than before??!!
WTF should i try a different setting or just get a new TPS? I've heard of some cars being factory set at .35 so i might try that and if not try like .60 or something...
Any help would be great, thanks!
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From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Re: (Sketch_hs)
more info:
IACV is disconnected cause it idle bounces at 1300 or so rpms i cleaned it like 23423 times... i can't stand the idle bounce so i leave it disconnected.
Doesn't seem to be any vacuum leak, pulling 21in/hg same as before the issue
If i give it a little gas a ANY TIME to bring it up to 1100-1500 rpms it bounces there and won't go past till i give it more gas to pass the rpm range that it bounces in.
it started after a block swap i had the IM off and put it on the new motor... i think i mighta bumped the tps when i took it off?
IACV is disconnected cause it idle bounces at 1300 or so rpms i cleaned it like 23423 times... i can't stand the idle bounce so i leave it disconnected.
Doesn't seem to be any vacuum leak, pulling 21in/hg same as before the issue
If i give it a little gas a ANY TIME to bring it up to 1100-1500 rpms it bounces there and won't go past till i give it more gas to pass the rpm range that it bounces in.
it started after a block swap i had the IM off and put it on the new motor... i think i mighta bumped the tps when i took it off?
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: TPS adjustment (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF..... just get a new TPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cover sheets? Didn't you get that memo?
Cover sheets? Didn't you get that memo?
Thread Starter
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From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Re: (SEFIxCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there tps enrichment modifier you can adjust?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but the problem wasn't there before with the same software
Yes, but the problem wasn't there before with the same software
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From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
UPDATE:
Set my tps back to where it was (.52) and was back to normal still slightly jerky.
Set it to .55 and it's MUCH better but still not perfect....
WTF.... why do i still have that ******* bounce 1100-1500 rpms range BS aargggg
Set my tps back to where it was (.52) and was back to normal still slightly jerky.
Set it to .55 and it's MUCH better but still not perfect....
WTF.... why do i still have that ******* bounce 1100-1500 rpms range BS aargggg
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Re: (monicle)
sounds like you still have a vacuum leak somewere cause of the surging idle.
I had this just till yesterday and finally figured out my problem (although yours could be different)
Vacuum was leaking under the map sensor itself. I made a little gasket for it and problem solved.
To find the leak, start spraying carb cleaner around all parts it could leak from, intake mani gasket area, map, tps, throttle body, etc...once it starts to stumble or the engine dies, there's your leak.
I had tried everything, adjusting the tps (.45 closed - 4.5 open) idle screw, cleand iacv. After I fixed vac leak at map, my idle was like 200rpms (very low) and the only way i could finally get it to go back up is adjust the screw that stops the throttle body closed. Now it idles 900rpms like a champ.
This is with Hondata on turbo GSR by the way. FITV REMVOED.
I had this just till yesterday and finally figured out my problem (although yours could be different)
Vacuum was leaking under the map sensor itself. I made a little gasket for it and problem solved.
To find the leak, start spraying carb cleaner around all parts it could leak from, intake mani gasket area, map, tps, throttle body, etc...once it starts to stumble or the engine dies, there's your leak.
I had tried everything, adjusting the tps (.45 closed - 4.5 open) idle screw, cleand iacv. After I fixed vac leak at map, my idle was like 200rpms (very low) and the only way i could finally get it to go back up is adjust the screw that stops the throttle body closed. Now it idles 900rpms like a champ.
This is with Hondata on turbo GSR by the way. FITV REMVOED.
B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: Greenville, South Carolina
Re: (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jerky when getting it on or mostly when slowly letting off the gas...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what exactly are we talking about here?
what exactly are we talking about here?
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From: deep in the heart of Texas
Re: (bense)
I must be one stupid ******. How the hell do you test the settings with the multi-meter? With everything in place I have no place to make the connections to test it.
Luckly I realized you can test it with the avcr!!! Actualy very easy and took about 15 seconds to do.
But where in the heck can I find a bare wire to test the thing with the meter?
Luckly I realized you can test it with the avcr!!! Actualy very easy and took about 15 seconds to do.
But where in the heck can I find a bare wire to test the thing with the meter?
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Re: (turboman)
slice some shielding off a little bit and then electrical tape when done, OR...
take the end of the probe from the multi meter and stab it into the wire, OR...
stabe the probe into the back side of the plug where the wire goes into it.
I prefer the first method.
take the end of the probe from the multi meter and stab it into the wire, OR...
stabe the probe into the back side of the plug where the wire goes into it.
I prefer the first method.
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Re: (mike1114)
Just a fyi....I found out on the dyno that my IACV is not working, thats why my car would not idle right and I had to ajdust the butterfly stop screw. Once I fix IACV all will be good.
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From: Where the Hell is 29 Palms
Re: (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW, update.
I replaced my engine wiring harness and now all of my idle / jerkyness problems are GONE!
cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Expensive route IMO.
I replaced my engine wiring harness and now all of my idle / jerkyness problems are GONE!
cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Expensive route IMO.
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From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
$100 wasn't that much to spend considering all the broken connections and **** wrong with my old one. Plus I went crazy and made the "new" harness super strong with this awesome ****:
"Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape
No need for adhesive, this tape fuses to itself in 24 hours for a permanent seal. Simply wrap or apply tape to object—it stretches to fit virtually any form. Ideal for high-temperature applications such as electrical coil insulation, splices, cable harnesses, powder-coating, masking applications, and bus bar insulation. Also useful as a substitute for heat shrink tube coverings and for sealing hot air ducts. Has a tensile strength of 700 psi and an elongation of 300%. Temperature range is -65° to +500° F (apply at temperatures from 70° to 100° F). Tape has a peel-off liner and is supplied on a cardboard spool with a 1" ID. To Order: Please specify color: black, clear, gray, or red.
Rectangular— Flat tape with uniform thickness. Commonly used as an electrical insulator. Meets MIL-A-A-59163 Type I standards.
Triangular— Thicker in the middle and tapering at each edge. Middle also has an extruded ridge that acts as a guide to ensure a smooth wrap. Meets MIL-A-A-59163 Type II standards."
Mcmaster part number : "7643A34"
http://www.mcmaster.com
"Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape
No need for adhesive, this tape fuses to itself in 24 hours for a permanent seal. Simply wrap or apply tape to object—it stretches to fit virtually any form. Ideal for high-temperature applications such as electrical coil insulation, splices, cable harnesses, powder-coating, masking applications, and bus bar insulation. Also useful as a substitute for heat shrink tube coverings and for sealing hot air ducts. Has a tensile strength of 700 psi and an elongation of 300%. Temperature range is -65° to +500° F (apply at temperatures from 70° to 100° F). Tape has a peel-off liner and is supplied on a cardboard spool with a 1" ID. To Order: Please specify color: black, clear, gray, or red.
Rectangular— Flat tape with uniform thickness. Commonly used as an electrical insulator. Meets MIL-A-A-59163 Type I standards.
Triangular— Thicker in the middle and tapering at each edge. Middle also has an extruded ridge that acts as a guide to ensure a smooth wrap. Meets MIL-A-A-59163 Type II standards."
Mcmaster part number : "7643A34"
http://www.mcmaster.com
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From: Palm beach, Fl
Re: (Sketch_hs)
hey i just did an intake manifold swap and im haveing some of the same problems not all of the sensors matched up but yet it is still working and i have a bouncy idle in the same rpm range but i think i know whats wrong with the bouncy idle but im not sure if i connected all the sensors right because there are two plugs left over? i think one is the iat bc there is no iat on the new manifold but the other wire i have no clue?
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Re: (northkai3)
one plug is most likely the EGR, mine is underneath the intake mani area. I just labeled it and taped it out of the way.
What colors are the wires on the two plugs. I or someone here will know what plugs they are that way.
What colors are the wires on the two plugs. I or someone here will know what plugs they are that way.
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