I'm running a B16A2 in my 2000 hatch right now. There's a bit of a problem though, the check engine light is on and it throws off a code 23. Which is the knock sensor right? Here's the wierdness. The check engine light only goes on when when the engine starts to warm up and I hit 25 mph. Then it'll stay on the whole time. For example, I let the car idle, if the engine warms up, fine, no check engine light until I drive and hit 25 mph. The funny thing, is that even though the check engine light is on, Vtec still engages. My car lags a bit though, but Vtec is still there. Could this be a defective sensor? Vtec works everytime, the check engine is just on though, and my car lags with the light on.

 

I would check to see if the connection on the knock sensor is good, if connection is good then more than likely the knock sensor is bad. Probably the reason you are not getting the code right away is because your at idle. When the motor is in a higher rpm is when the sensor is looking for knock, It should only look for knock till about 4,500 to 5,000 rpm. Having a bad knock sensor will also throw lots of timming and fuel in which it will make your car run like ***.

 

Yep, its putting your car in safe mode, retarding timing and all.

 

Yea, I'll check those things out. My check engine light goes on though even if my revs are low, as long as I hit 25 mph when the engine warms up. I shift at 3,000 rpm, and the light still goes on. Really weird stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swifty4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep, its putting your car in safe mode, retarding timing and all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The car doesnt' have a "safe mode" its called "Limp home" mode... and no, its NOT putting his car in this. If it was then he wouldn't be getting past say 4,000rpms.

Code 23 comes on when there is a problem in the knock sensor circuit.. which is pretty much the sensor, and the wiring itself. From what you have described, the sensor is not your problem. You need to check the wiring from the ECU all the way to the knock sensor.

 

I am having the EXACT same problem in my 94 del sol S with b16a3 swap. EXACT same. I tried running the wire myself and the CEL still comes on after the car gets up to operating temp. One of two things is wrong with mine: 1) the person that did the swap wired it to the wrong pin on my ECU (it should be pin D3, I think, but I don't know which one D3 is), or, 2) my wiring is fucked up. It's really difficult to access the knock sensor... maybe my hands are too big... I need help with this problem too though......

 

it's strange...a b16a2 don't has a knock sensor only the JDM engines have a knock sensor...

Are you driving with a JDM ecu?

 

double check the wiring. i broke the knock sensor off mine 16 by accident. it did the same thing yours is doing. could be that the pin for the knock wire in the ecu isnt in all the way or the knock sensor plug came loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's strange...a b16a2 don't has a knock sensor only the JDM engines have a knock sensor...

Are you driving with a JDM ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16a2 does have a knock sensor..D16y8 also has a knock sensor, both using usdm ecus.

 

does it have to be a shielded wire? or can i just use 18 ga.? i just have regular wire going from the knock sensor to the ecu, and it doesn't work.

 

just checked.... its throwing code 23.... KS.... does it need to be shielded wire??? anybody???

 

No. I ran some radio shack wire from the engine bay through the firewall and it works just fine.

 

thank god. Ok, then my problem has to be the pin going into the ecu. i have never pinned anything into an ecu. the person that did the swap has the wire on some kind of connector shoved into D3 on the ecu (D3 is for the KS, i looked it up). any tips/tricks/advice for "re-pinning" the wire into the ecu?

 

and try another KS maybe its broken.