1994
MY car sometime will not start.
This only happens about once or twice a month.
It either starts or it does not start. There is no turning it over untill it finally starts.
It either starts or it don't.

Fire = Good
Compression = Good
Fuel = I am unable to check the pressure with a gauge but it does have strong pressure at the check point. The fuel pump does come on when you turn the key.

What does the main relay control?? (firing,injectors etc.)

How can do you check the "fuel pressure regulator" and will that keep the engine from running?

Got anymore ideas or anything else to check??

 

when car does not start have a can of carb cleaner, pull tube off throttle body and spray carb cleaner in there if it starts it is a fuel issue most likely relayy , if no start chk to see if you get spark ...

 

Well,, I did get it started buy spraying a little starting fluid in the air intake..
IT does havegood spark and the fuel pump is working... There is fuel pressure at the fuel check point.

 

remove the main relay, take it apart and chk for cracked soderings you might need a magnified glass ,, resoder the cracked sodering and put together,,,, i bet that is the source of your problem

 

That sounds like a good idea!! I do electronics for a living so that is right up my alley.
I will check it out .
Thanks

 

anybody have the general location of the relay


Modified by 90accorddx at 9:38 PM 5/31/2005

 

Far left hand side,
under dash

 

someone posted a real good picture of it in here you might want to ask ...but ronqq is correct

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronqqq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does the main relay control?? (firing,injectors etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 'main relay' is basically 2 relays together in one case. One of them switches power on/off for the ECU, injectors, & most relays in the engine control systems. The other one switches power to the fuel pump.

 

Hey thanks for the great information!!

So would you think that It might be possable that even though the fuel pump turns on when the key is turned on, the Injectors and ecu might not be getting a good contact??

I guess I will have to pull it out and take a good look at it and see if it might be failty..
Thanks for your info!!
Ron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronqqq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So would you think that It might be possable that even though the fuel pump turns on when the key is turned on, the Injectors and ecu might not be getting a good contact??</TD></TR></TABLE>No, that part doesn't make sense.

The 1st relay (within the main relay) switches power to the ECU, injectors & other stuff. Then the ECU tells the 2nd relay to close, which switches on the fuel pump.

So if the 1st relay was bad the ECU wouldn't power up, so it won't trigger the 2nd relay. If the 2nd relay is bad the fuel pump still won't get power.

More likely with cold-solder problems, it's intermittent. More often when the interior is hot from being parked in the sun.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronqqq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do electronics for a living so that is right up my alley.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Intermittent problems are fun, aren't they? But still, it should be easy for you to open the main relay, inspect the soldering, & rule it out as the cause.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronqqq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It either starts or it does not start. There is no turning it over untill it finally starts.</TD></TR></TABLE>Back to basics... Does this mean that the starter doesn't work? Then finally something kicks in & the starter begins working?

 

OK So I can just about rule out the MAIN RELAY.(I will still check it though).
The fuel pump DOES cut on when the key is turned on....
It has good Fire at the plugs ;;;;;

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
More often when the interior is hot from being parked in the sun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most of the time the problem occurs in the morning when the engine is cold. Well really that is the only time it happens, is in the morning. Once it does deside to start it is good to go a another few weeks..
That is what gets me is that it only does happen in the morning NEVER A PROBLEM AFTER THE CAR HAS BEEN RUNNING...


Starter working fine..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back to basics... Does this mean that the starter doesn't work? Then finally something kicks in & the starter begins working?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ronqqq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most of the time the problem occurs in the morning when the engine is cold. Well really that is the only time it happens, is in the morning...</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK that's interesting... Check your coolant temperature sensor, #19. That tells the ECU when the engine's cold so it can add more fuel. Loose, dirty, or corroded electrical connection? Maybe the sensor is failed in a way that makes the ECU think the engine's already hot? You have the wrong year for me, but maybe someone with a 1994 Helm repair book can look up what resistance that sensor is supposed to have a different temperatures.

 

Makes good sence to me ..
I will check that out also!!
Thanks
Ron

 

just wanted to see if anyone had luck with the diy repair on the main relay im about to go to the honda dealer and see if i cant take a look at one then try soldering it myself
i took electronics in highschool so i know how to solder just wanted to see if this is actually gonna be worth my time or if i should bite the bullet and buy the part

 

well i pulled the main relay out couldnt find any cracked solder joints but some parts of the board looked burnt so i bought the part $61.09
If anyone else does this i was looking at the parts you could probably buy a new one and then switch the cases and take the old one back to get your money back
but the plastic underneath was slightly a different color
by the way where it is located it is a bitch to get out



Modified by 90accorddx at 2:25 AM 6/3/2005