Ok, I'm pretty sure my fuel pump has gone bad. I checked the main relay (clicking), fuses, connections with DMM and all is well. I'm getting 12V to the yel/black and black wires at the rear connector with the pump switched on so I'm thinking it is the pump itself. I see that I have to drop the gas tank and disconnect all the hoses, straps, etc which sounds intimidating but I'm wondering if it's easier than it sounds. Is this a job that can be done on the street?

 

i have an ek and i didn't drop the tank. all ya have to do is take out the back seats(mine were out already), open the fuel pump cover and replace it from there, what i did and works like a charm Maybe takes an hour without seats, maybe 90 mins or 2 hours with. good luck

 

dunno, he's right though, i know you can do it from the top, but i've never done it, so good luck, hey i need that climate control. borderlinenow@aol.com

 

"i know you can do it from the top" - don't see how unless you cut out the floor in the rear of the car - the pump is located behind the 3 hard lines on the d. side in the passenger compartment. The fuel level sending unit can definately (and I'd advise) from w/in the car but not the pump (unless your CRX's are distinctly different from those I am familiar).

If you temporarily ground the fuel pump to the chassis (or the black next to the yellow black on the rear harness connector) and run a wire from the yellow/black to the battery, do you see any kind of spark (or hear anything from the pump)? If you have 12v there, I'd be worried this test will show you its gone (spark would tell you its seized). To replace, its not as bad as I was warned. I just did it Saturday morning and soup to nuts, it was about 2.5 hours (and I did some things that were not necessary). What I did was the following:

Separate the black/yellow-black wires from the fuel level sending unit (yellow-white/black) where they enter the passenger compartment.

I put the car on three 2x10s, one for each front wheel, one under the right rear.

Drain the fuel tank (the lean will help it come out a little less sloppily and not run back up the tank bottom toward the front of the car). Once you have it drained, safely jack the rear of the car up onto jack stands (leave the front on the ground).

You will need to remove the 10mm bolts on the two cover plates (d. side) - don't worry about the plastic screws, leave them in there.

Place your jack (I have a lightweight big paddle type - harbor freight Al. jack) under the rearmost part of the tank and remove the two strap hangar nuts. Once off, lower the tank, slip out the jack, and you should have been able to crack the banjo bolt loose, disconnect the soft line running into the mounted tab on the d. side of the tank, remove the 6 10mm nuts and pull it up and out (you will need to turn the assembly forward into the highest point of the cavity.

Replace the fuel pump (again, you'll have to drop in the pre-filter and turn it back towards you w/ some patience to get it in), make sure you re-run the wiring through the plastic guides around the tank and back up and into the opening (its a bit awkward but you'll want to as I have been warned that not doing so can pinch them when you replace the tank).

Slip the jack back under it and lift (gently) into place - it will have shifted so be weary of the rear lip where the hangar bolts go in.

Best of luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have an ek and i didn't drop the tank. all ya have to do is take out the back seats(mine were out already), open the fuel pump cover and replace it from there, what i did and works like a charm Maybe takes an hour without seats, maybe 90 mins or 2 hours with. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

on ef's you have to drop the tank...

 

well...as i said i havent done it yet. that sucks *** though. I have only done one on a 95 dx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"i know you can do it from the top" - don't see how unless you cut out the floor in the rear of the car - the pump is located behind the 3 hard lines on the d. side in the passenger compartment. The fuel level sending unit can definately (and I'd advise) from w/in the car but not the pump (unless your CRX's are distinctly different from those I am familiar).

If you temporarily ground the fuel pump to the chassis (or the black next to the yellow black on the rear harness connector) and run a wire from the yellow/black to the battery, do you see any kind of spark (or hear anything from the pump)? If you have 12v there, I'd be worried this test will show you its gone (spark would tell you its seized). To replace, its not as bad as I was warned. I just did it Saturday morning and soup to nuts, it was about 2.5 hours (and I did some things that were not necessary). What I did was the following:

Separate the black/yellow-black wires from the fuel level sending unit (yellow-white/black) where they enter the passenger compartment.

I put the car on three 2x10s, one for each front wheel, one under the right rear.

Drain the fuel tank (the lean will help it come out a little less sloppily and not run back up the tank bottom toward the front of the car). Once you have it drained, safely jack the rear of the car up onto jack stands (leave the front on the ground).

You will need to remove the 10mm bolts on the two cover plates (d. side) - don't worry about the plastic screws, leave them in there.

Place your jack (I have a lightweight big paddle type - harbor freight Al. jack) under the rearmost part of the tank and remove the two strap hangar nuts. Once off, lower the tank, slip out the jack, and you should have been able to crack the banjo bolt loose, disconnect the soft line running into the mounted tab on the d. side of the tank, remove the 6 10mm nuts and pull it up and out (you will need to turn the assembly forward into the highest point of the cavity.

Replace the fuel pump (again, you'll have to drop in the pre-filter and turn it back towards you w/ some patience to get it in), make sure you re-run the wiring through the plastic guides around the tank and back up and into the opening (its a bit awkward but you'll want to as I have been warned that not doing so can pinch them when you replace the tank).

Slip the jack back under it and lift (gently) into place - it will have shifted so be weary of the rear lip where the hangar bolts go in.

Best of luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice dude!!! more people need to make good posts like this, only problem I see is if your going to drain it, you do not need to jack it back into place. It is very light. If I have 1/2 tank or less I never drain them, more than that you better or you will make a mess...1/2 tank is a bit messy too. ALso alot of people don't know were the drain is.

 

You are right, at that point, its extremely light. I was concerned that putting even a big paddle jack under it w/ the weight of fuel would dent the tank up (probably a small piece of wood would alleviate my concern for that). And again, you are absolutely right that you don't need a jack to push it back up into place w/out fuel. For me, I felt like I needed a third hand to get it back up there in its proper place easily so the jack worked for me in that regard. I'd probably do it the same way if I were to again (by myself) but certainly very good call that its not a necessity.

and thanks btw, I try to be helpful

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sirq2u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

on ef's you have to drop the tank... </TD></TR></TABLE>

bummmer...

 

i did it 3 times already its a bitch

 

Very helpful post! thanks guys. I'm having the car towed to my garage so I can take my time on it. Now the only question is...stock fuel pump or Walbro 190? It seems the OEM pump is rather expensive while the walbro is about $80. I have a B16A with CTR cams and bolt ons.