Tranny Swap Gone BAD?? Release Bearing?
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wow, so me and my buddy stayed up 12 hours doing a tranny swap on a d series for the first time, swaping some suspension stuff etc. anyway, we get it ALL done, to find out that the release bearing in the tranny is pretty much jammed, won't move anywhere except a little ways from PP. Trying put a bit of pressure on it and still wno't me. whenever i press int eh cltuch it just drops to the floor because the line doesn't push that little plate in. any ideas? after staying up we realized we have to drop the tranny again, but what could go wrong? super frustrating i guess, but we have to learn somehow huh? again any ideas?
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oh **** really? i thought we were gonna have to drop the tranny. How do u bllede the clutch, total noob here
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BUTTTTTTTT how much pressure does it take to push that presure plate in? my buddy took his foot to it while sitting ont he ground and couldn't gett hat thign to move....
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find the slave cylinder. have your friend pump the clutch like 10 times and hold it in on the 10th. take an 8mm wrench and let the clutch fluid out the slave cyliner. make sure you have the clutch resevoir open and keep adding brake/clutch fluid in make sure it never goes empty. keep pumping the clutch and letting the air out until you dont see any more bubbles and the pedal feels firm again.
Modified by thrty8street at 4:21 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by thrty8street at 4:21 PM 5/28/2005
I would put a piece of tubing over the bleader into a can of fluid to be sure you dont suck air back into the slave as well.
Also before you get started take the bleader screw out completly and put some white grease on the threads. This will make an air tight seal to help make sure you dont suck air back in. Thats the proplem I ran into while bleeding mine.
And the tranny swap gone bad is mine, When I got done I had a woodpecker noise because I forgot to tighten a bolt all the way and it was rubbing on my pressure plate and I pulled it out and reinstalled 3-4 times before figuring it out.
Also before you get started take the bleader screw out completly and put some white grease on the threads. This will make an air tight seal to help make sure you dont suck air back in. Thats the proplem I ran into while bleeding mine.
And the tranny swap gone bad is mine, When I got done I had a woodpecker noise because I forgot to tighten a bolt all the way and it was rubbing on my pressure plate and I pulled it out and reinstalled 3-4 times before figuring it out.
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WOW thats a bummer man
SO, literally u u can't push the pressure plate it? it requires that much force?
SO, literally u u can't push the pressure plate it? it requires that much force?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW thats a bummer man
SO, literally u u can't push the pressure plate it? it requires that much force?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Think about how hard you push on the pedal. I have a ACT xtreme pressure plate so it's prolly more then your's. I have to push fairly hard on mine. So take the force you put down on the pedal and times it by 10 or so and there you go. It's hyrdolic so pushing the pedal down is going to be easy, but there is alot more pressure then that pushing on the press. plate.
To me it sounds like you have a lot of air in your lines and need to bleed it.
SO, literally u u can't push the pressure plate it? it requires that much force?</TD></TR></TABLE>Think about how hard you push on the pedal. I have a ACT xtreme pressure plate so it's prolly more then your's. I have to push fairly hard on mine. So take the force you put down on the pedal and times it by 10 or so and there you go. It's hyrdolic so pushing the pedal down is going to be easy, but there is alot more pressure then that pushing on the press. plate.
To me it sounds like you have a lot of air in your lines and need to bleed it.
Doesn't sound like air but rather you guys put the release bearing/shift fork wrong.
If you remove the slave cylinder, does the clutch fork go back and forth smoothly? If not, then there is your problem.
When you swap trannies, no need to bleed the clutch as the system is never opened.
If you remove the slave cylinder, does the clutch fork go back and forth smoothly? If not, then there is your problem.
When you swap trannies, no need to bleed the clutch as the system is never opened.
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yea i never opened the line, so im figuring that we put the release bearing in wong. but we put it exactly how the other tranny had it so idk... im hoping it's the line, but idk, how can u put the beaing in wrong. we had he spring in right, and the bearing just goes on the end and it should be sort of lose with those two little clips pieces around the pedal?
The shift fork might not be clipped over the ball. Then the bearing slides over the 2 hands of the fork.
Try messing with it with the clutch slave from touching the shift fork and trying moving the fork back and forth.
Try messing with it with the clutch slave from touching the shift fork and trying moving the fork back and forth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> When you swap trannies, no need to bleed the clutch as the system is never opened. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless the fluid is so old that it is black, thick and looks like ****
.
Unless the fluid is so old that it is black, thick and looks like ****
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Unless the fluid is so old that it is black, thick and looks like ****
. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you should do that regardless.
What I am trying to get at is if there wasn't a problem with it before, there shouldn't be one with it now UNLESS you damaged it.
Unless the fluid is so old that it is black, thick and looks like ****
. </TD></TR></TABLE>Then you should do that regardless.
What I am trying to get at is if there wasn't a problem with it before, there shouldn't be one with it now UNLESS you damaged it.
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so what should i do with the clutch fork? is there anyway to nudge it? were damn sure the fork was on the ball, tle clip was around the ball and the clip was in the fork for sure, so idk how we messed up. this is cazy frustrating if we have to pull the tranny again
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you should really think about investing in a helms manual if you dont already have one. best $70 ive spent
i think you can get them at helmsinc.com
good luck
i think you can get them at helmsinc.com
good luck
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we have a helms manual, me and my buddy, and it doesn't say much btu what it does say is what we did, so idk. My buddy is gonna come over and take a look but im damn sure we got it on the ball and had the spring right and everything. Taking this off again is going to be a bitch, but at least i now know where all the bolts are
ALSO, what joints would i grease up?
ALSO, what joints would i grease up?
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oh well the ebaring was greased up plenty, but i didn't do the fork, idk, i'm figuring either way the thing has to come out now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh well the ebaring was greased up plenty, but i didn't do the fork, idk, i'm figuring either way the thing has to come out now
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah the fork need to be greased on the contact points. It still has to be something else that is stopping the throw-out bearing to not move.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah the fork need to be greased on the contact points. It still has to be something else that is stopping the throw-out bearing to not move.
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i think that the bearnig is like slightly moved to the left or right, and it's hitting in a wrong spot not in the center, thats the only thing i could imagine. good thing is though i guess, we don't have to drop the tranny, just inscrew it pull it out a little and check it out. hoping it's that easy
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