Oka i have off the shelf gcs and the mailman just dropped off my brand new kyb agxs five minutes ago.Im wondering where i should go from here?

 

Probably either to your own garage to put them in or a shop that can.

 

ughhhh i mean as far as suspension goes? im installing them right now

 

The trick is to identify any issues/problems BEFORE you start fixing them. Don't just buy parts because people say it's does this or that for their car. If you want it lower, you buy lowering springs. Now you need an alignment. You also need to reset/zero out your bushings. If the car is too bouncy now, you buy performance shocks. If your car is too low & there isn't enough shock travel, you get extended upper shock mounts. If your chassis still rolls too much in hard turns you get some swaybars. If you're racing, and your getting too much understeer, you get a bigger rear swaybar or stiffer rear springs.

Nobody can really answer your question. Let us know what issues/problems your having & we can help you solve/fix them...

 

LoL i messed up this thread anyways i off the shelf gcs and i got my kyb agxs installed.What do you guys think about a gsr sway? the car is a 92 cx with a jdm d15b.Im also riding on falken ziex 512s

 

drive the car, see how you like it, then decide to go from there. sways are usually used to fine tune a car's balance, and also remember alignment can make a big difference... also, i've owned the 512s, they're ok, not the best grip, when it comes down to it, tires are what's most important.
and you'd be amazed on how fast some people are with their stock cars... its all about learning how to drive.

 

Yeah, you are probably going to want a rear swaybar. That's the only thing "missing" i'd say. Run a good alignment and wheel/tire package and your all set. Not much more to do. Oh, maybe bushings like the energy suspension master kit, but that's not really that important yet.
Chris

 

Before i put on the shocks on i didnt lower my car again(kept the same setting) do you think i should get another alignment even tho it doesnt pull to the left or right

 

If your sure it's the same hieght, then don't worry about it (as long it's not drifting to one side)...

 

now that i look at it the rear(ive been wanting to lower it more but wanted to wait for shocks)looks lower.Maybe the shocks did something but ehh iono is that possible? other than that it doesnt do anything out of the ordinary.Should i shellout for st sway bar kit or will a gsr sway make a big difference?

 

put the shocks on and get an alignment - just do it, for less than $65 it makes a huge difference, try searching for some popular alignment settings - as for sways, I don't have the same set up as you so I do not know.

 

Anytime you take the wheels off, you should get an alignment. That's the safest way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyWash1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anytime you take the wheels off, you should get an alignment. That's the safest way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I take my wheels off so i thoroughly clean my rims. Now I have to get an alignment?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyWash1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anytime you take the wheels off, you should get an alignment. That's the safest way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? lol like i said before the car doesnt pull to the right or left so i dont think i need an alignment.All i want to do is upgrade onto what i have now

 

hahahah! actually the rear doesn't bump steer much so it should be ok. The front bumpsteers alot; so if it's height is changed, then you definitely need an alignment. But if it's the same as before or very very close (meaning within a 1/16 inch), then you are ok and probably don't need an alignment. If you are concerned about tire life and you aren't sure you are within 1/16 inch, then get an alignment just to be sure.

Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WTF? lol like i said before the car doesnt pull to the right or left so i dont think i need an alignment.All i want to do is upgrade onto what i have now</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is straight from a tech at my garage. It makes sense--it just isn't cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyWash1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anytime you take the wheels off, you should get an alignment. That's the safest way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong. alignments need to be done when you change the overall height of the vehicle or change the overall size of your rims & tires from the stock size. care to explain your reason?

 

why do you need to change alignment when you change your rim/tire combo?
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedShiftChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you need to change alignment when you change your rim/tire combo?
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it may depends on whether toe was set in degrees or x/xx's of an inch.

with a different diameter wheel/tire, the x/xx's of an inch will no longer be the same value. with the degree setting it'll stay the same.

so the statement is partially misleading...

------

every time i take off a wheel? no way. i have a lifetime alignment and that's still excessive. unless that tech was taking off wheels using jaws of life and 40 kip shop press i don't see the point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gutted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wrong. alignments need to be done when you change the overall height of the vehicle or change the overall size of your rims & tires from the stock size. care to explain your reason?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My quote was straight from a tech at my garage. He is going through his ASE cert right now, and I didn't get the reason. In my head I reasoned it to error involved in bolting down the rim to the hub.

 

if theres error with bolting on the wheel to the hub, alignments not the only problem youll have

 

Actually, the inches of toe measurement is at a theoritcal diameter and not you actual diameter (unless you are doing a string alignment in your garage....but that's an exception and not the rule). The alignment doesn't really have anything to do with the wheel and tire. Scrub radius changes and roll center may go up or down, but toe and camber don't change.

And it's true that anytime you raise or lower the car, you will get a little toe change... it's called bump steer. But if you only change the height by 1/16 inch, then the toe is going to change so little that it will not matter much. Then again, if you are racing or totally **** about tire wear, maybe you do want to make it perfect. We all how our vises, and perfect toe setting isn't such a bad one.

Chris

 

oka what would you recommend? my car is a 1992 cx hb and it didnt come with any sway bars in stock form.Would a rear bar be fine or do i need both

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oka what would you recommend? my car is a 1992 cx hb and it didnt come with any sway bars in stock form.Would a rear bar be fine or do i need both</TD></TR></TABLE>

Clearly you missed all the advice about "drive your car and see what you think it needs before you add anything else"

 

I have a 94cx with GCs (400f/250r lowered 3"), Koni yellows and 205/40/16. I recently installed a GSR 14mm rear sway, and noticed a slight difference in handling, and an increase in snap over-steer (slight, but easily controlled at low speeds). After that I installed a 24mm GSR front sway, and noticed a huge difference. The car seemed to just follow the road more (like it was less susceptible to Newton's 1st law). It didn't feel like it was floating over crests when turning any more. I also installed Korbach frame locks, and that made the front end feel about 10x stiffer, and actually helped the ride quality quite a bit...