I can't believe I have to ask this but anyway, I recently installed the Omni-power front camber kit. I basically replaced the stock control arm w/ the Omni one. Not it's all put back together I just realized adjusting the camber is going to be a pain in the ***. What do most of you guys do? Set it when you're installing the control arms? I'm confused....was I supposed to get a different shock hat to be able to adjust it from inside the engine bay? Anyone have pics? Thanks for any help in advance.

 

instead of wasting your time, tyring to eye ball it, and it will NEVER be right.

take it to a decent alignment shop.. they'll get in dialed in, within tenths of an inch!

camber is half of alingnment, the 2nd half is toe.. thats what tears up our tires more than camber. i dont' think your going to be able to do **** for your toe adjustment.

please get your car aligned.

 

i dont even bother trying to adjust them... i just put them on and immediately take it to get an alignment... let them deal with it

 

I guess my main question is how are they going to gain access to the allen head screws on the top of the control arm?

 

an alignment shop usually does more than just alignments, most places do brakes, and minor engine work. allen wrenches are VERY common mild mechanic tools.

 

I think he wants to know how they get access to the allen heads when the car is on the ground. Well that's simple, they don't. They have to raise the front of the car to make adjustments, and put it back down and recheck... and each time they have to remeasure the runout. It may take some time depending on how picky you are about the +/- 1 degree thing.

 

^Thank You, that's what I was wondering.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> They have to raise the front of the car to make adjustments, and put it back down and recheck... and each time they have to remeasure the runout. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not exactly true. most shops that have up to date equipment have a "jack and hold" feature. by clicking this, that allows them to jack the nose of the car up letting suspension droop and have the same readings as when the car was on the ground. the tech can then adjust camber as needed, then reclick jack and hold, and put the car on the ground, then adjust toe. oh, just to clarify, runout is measured on the wheels, to measure a bent wheel. you check runout when first putting the alignment heads on the wheels so you can align a car with a bent wheel.

 

Jack and hold would have been nice!!! Our alignment machine at my old shop is old and ghetto... that's what I learned on. To measure the runout, you had to attach the heads to the wheels and turn them 2 full rotations in measurement mode to allow the machine to make sure the wheels were straight. When you jacked the car up and put it back down... it lost those measurements and made you re-measure. I figured newer machines would have overcome that problem, but alot of shops still have those older machines, that's why I said it... And if they don't have a newer machine with the jack and hold feature, you'll get bagged for the labor charges for all this too.