strange problem, car died while driving then refused to start.
I'm encountering a very strange problem. I was drivingmy turbo b18 crx on an Interstate last night, doing 75 on 5th gear. All the suddenly the engine just shut down. I pulled over onto the shoulder and attempted to find my problem.
-Main relay did make two clicks, pump does prime but the CEL doesn't go off after second click.
-Battery is relocated to the rear, ground on thermostat is good, there is a ground on tranmission, two more ground on the motor. All connection are retightened.
-Battery has good power, even tried jump start.
-There is spark, rotor and cap have been checked. New set of plugs have also been installed.
YET the car will crank but refused to start. There is no prior symptoms, the car was runnning great, it also ran really great during my autocross in the morning. Please help me out.
-Main relay did make two clicks, pump does prime but the CEL doesn't go off after second click.
-Battery is relocated to the rear, ground on thermostat is good, there is a ground on tranmission, two more ground on the motor. All connection are retightened.
-Battery has good power, even tried jump start.
-There is spark, rotor and cap have been checked. New set of plugs have also been installed.
YET the car will crank but refused to start. There is no prior symptoms, the car was runnning great, it also ran really great during my autocross in the morning. Please help me out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the CEL doesn't go off after second click.
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Does it have a code stored? Have you checked your fuses?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does it have a code stored? Have you checked your fuses?
check compression, check fuel injectors are firing, check fuel pressure.
Kind of happenned to me..
Did you by chance make sure that the rotor screw was tight and in place.
It took me till 1:00 am one night before i finally gave up and called the auto club to tow me home.
The next morning, after carefully inspecting my car, my mechanic told me my rotor screw came loose.
Did you by chance make sure that the rotor screw was tight and in place.
It took me till 1:00 am one night before i finally gave up and called the auto club to tow me home.
The next morning, after carefully inspecting my car, my mechanic told me my rotor screw came loose.
problem solved.
It was my distributor locking up. It locked up so bad that we couldn't even turn it using channel locks, there was also metal shaving inside the distributor. That explains why the car won't turn over.
thanks everybody for the help.
It was my distributor locking up. It locked up so bad that we couldn't even turn it using channel locks, there was also metal shaving inside the distributor. That explains why the car won't turn over.
thanks everybody for the help.
Update: This suck!
I bit the bullet and bought a new distributor, yet the car will crank but will not start.
Fuel was check by taking out a line at the filter while cracking, fuel come spewing out.
Every spark was checked, there was good spark and these plugs are brand new.
Compression was checked, not perfect but sitll has decent compression.
The car does crank, fuel pump does prime and i got fuel, but it still won't help. Any other idea guys?
I bit the bullet and bought a new distributor, yet the car will crank but will not start.
Fuel was check by taking out a line at the filter while cracking, fuel come spewing out.
Every spark was checked, there was good spark and these plugs are brand new.
Compression was checked, not perfect but sitll has decent compression.
The car does crank, fuel pump does prime and i got fuel, but it still won't help. Any other idea guys?
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I'd check the timing and the timing belt. If the distributor locked up that hard, it's possible that the cam gear may have sheared some teeth off the t-belt. Happened on my '91 Accord.
Try having someone turn it over while you look in the oil filler on the valve cover to see if the cams are turning - that's if you still have the upper timing belt cover on, and can't readily see if the belt is turning or not.
Mike
Try having someone turn it over while you look in the oil filler on the valve cover to see if the cams are turning - that's if you still have the upper timing belt cover on, and can't readily see if the belt is turning or not.
Mike
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwicko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd check the timing and the timing belt. If the distributor locked up that hard, it's possible that the cam gear may have sheared some teeth off the t-belt. Happened on my '91 Accord.
Try having someone turn it over while you look in the oil filler on the valve cover to see if the cams are turning - that's if you still have the upper timing belt cover on, and can't readily see if the belt is turning or not.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are right. The dist locked up so hard that the belt jumped several teeth. Luckily i was only cruising aroung 3-4k rpm. I got every lined up right, crank at 0btc, arrows on cams are both up, the mark on the cams line up with each other, but it still idle really bad and backfire like **** if i try to give a little gas. Any other ideas?
Try having someone turn it over while you look in the oil filler on the valve cover to see if the cams are turning - that's if you still have the upper timing belt cover on, and can't readily see if the belt is turning or not.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are right. The dist locked up so hard that the belt jumped several teeth. Luckily i was only cruising aroung 3-4k rpm. I got every lined up right, crank at 0btc, arrows on cams are both up, the mark on the cams line up with each other, but it still idle really bad and backfire like **** if i try to give a little gas. Any other ideas?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are right. The dist locked up so hard that the belt jumped several teeth. Luckily i was only cruising aroung 3-4k rpm. I got every lined up right, crank at 0btc, arrows on cams are both up, the mark on the cams line up with each other, but it still idle really bad and backfire like **** if i try to give a little gas. Any other ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Compresion and leakdown tests? Could have bent a valve or more.
Compresion and leakdown tests? Could have bent a valve or more.
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Feb 5, 2011 01:42 PM





