Need Some Major Help!!! HELP ON OBD2 SOHC SWAP
I RECENTLY DID A '98 DX SWAP INTO A '88 CRX DX AND NOW I'M HAVING PROBLEM STARTING IT. THE ENGINE WILL ONLY STAY ON IF YOU LEAVE YOU FINGER ON THE KEY. ( WHICH IT START MODE, CRANK MODE, ECT. ) WITH THE STARTER RUNNING
. BASICLY ITS A '98 DX ENGINE, BOTTOME BLOCK, HEAD, & DISTRIBUTOR ONTO A '91 CRX Si INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH ZC HEADERS. CRANK SENSOR HAS BEEN REMOVED AND TERMO SENSOR HAS BEEN ADDED IN THE BACK NEAR THE OIL FILTER. RUNNING A PM6 ECU. SO BASICLY ANY SUGGESTION WOULD BE GREATFUL. THANKS PEEPS!!!
" YES, I'M USING THE '98 DX DISTRIBUTOR TOO!!! "
( SORRY GUYS, I FORGOT TO NOTE THAT IT ONLY STAY ON FOR A SECOND OR TWO WHEN YOU LEAVE IT ON START, THEN YOU'LL HAVE TO SHUT IT OFF COMPLETELY TO ENGAGE ANOTHER START. )
Modified by kwik`Rev at 1:47 PM 5/23/2005
Modified by kwik`Rev at 1:56 PM 5/23/2005
. BASICLY ITS A '98 DX ENGINE, BOTTOME BLOCK, HEAD, & DISTRIBUTOR ONTO A '91 CRX Si INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH ZC HEADERS. CRANK SENSOR HAS BEEN REMOVED AND TERMO SENSOR HAS BEEN ADDED IN THE BACK NEAR THE OIL FILTER. RUNNING A PM6 ECU. SO BASICLY ANY SUGGESTION WOULD BE GREATFUL. THANKS PEEPS!!!" YES, I'M USING THE '98 DX DISTRIBUTOR TOO!!! "
( SORRY GUYS, I FORGOT TO NOTE THAT IT ONLY STAY ON FOR A SECOND OR TWO WHEN YOU LEAVE IT ON START, THEN YOU'LL HAVE TO SHUT IT OFF COMPLETELY TO ENGAGE ANOTHER START. )
Modified by kwik`Rev at 1:47 PM 5/23/2005
Modified by kwik`Rev at 1:56 PM 5/23/2005
I would check the actual ignition switch itself. It's common on the EF chassis for the plastic housing behind the actual igntion itself to short and/or burn out. This causes the cars electrical system to see the main power source in the start position, but not the run position. You can generally see if this is the case by putting the key in the start position, then when the motor as you can tell is running, just back the key slowly toward the run position. Sometimes it's possible to get the starter to disengage and get a normal run position.
Take the unit off the back of the ignition. It's fairly simple and simply smelling the unit will tell you it's bad. If it isn't actually burned it may just be corroded or shorted. Either way that's mostlikely your problem.
Take the unit off the back of the ignition. It's fairly simple and simply smelling the unit will tell you it's bad. If it isn't actually burned it may just be corroded or shorted. Either way that's mostlikely your problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would check the actual ignition switch itself. It's common on the EF chassis for the plastic housing behind the actual igntion itself to short and/or burn out. This causes the cars electrical system to see the main power source in the start position, but not the run position. You can generally see if this is the case by putting the key in the start position, then when the motor as you can tell is running, just back the key slowly toward the run position. Sometimes it's possible to get the starter to disengage and get a normal run position.
Take the unit off the back of the ignition. It's fairly simple and simply smelling the unit will tell you it's bad. If it isn't actually burned it may just be corroded or shorted. Either way that's mostlikely your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good call dude
Take the unit off the back of the ignition. It's fairly simple and simply smelling the unit will tell you it's bad. If it isn't actually burned it may just be corroded or shorted. Either way that's mostlikely your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good call dude
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