Well, I am prepping my car for the itr expo. Basically doing every fluid change and some other stuff. yes i will post pics later. just too tired.

when i pulled out my plugs, there was some oil on the bottom of each. not like soaked but a lil bit. i know this could mean bad seals or something. maybe this is why i burn about half a quart between oil changes (yeah i know its not much) but i usually go through about 1 quart per track day.

 

Good thing you caught it early - is your compression a-okay?

 

i don't know how to check compression. my car runs fine and is quite strong. i will be tracking her next weekend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe this is why i burn about half a quart between oil changes (yeah i know its not much) but i usually go through about 1 quart per track day</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, it might not be major now but, IMO, it's not something to happy about.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know how to check compression. my car runs fine and is quite strong. i will be tracking her next weekend. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just for your info if anything, you should do a compression check ASAP! Most good mechanics will have a compression tester.

Looking forward to meeting you at Expo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRbroham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, it might not be major now but, IMO, it's not something to happy about.

Just for your info if anything, you should do a compression check ASAP! Most good mechanics will have a compression tester.

Looking forward to meeting you at Expo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think the compression test will have to wait until expo. i won't have time between now and then

 

i had this problem with my eclipse...

their are o rings in between the valve cover and head above the spark plug cylinders...in my eclipse one moved and oil was getting into my sparkplug...all i did was pop the valve cover and installed a new valve cover gasket and new spark plug o rings...

im not sure if this is the same for the S, but it could be...

 

i check'd mine a bit to late. my spark plug wires were wet with oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ap-Jeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i check'd mine a bit to late. my spark plug wires were wet with oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if ur spark plugs are wet, that means the o rings between ur head and valve cover are broken and un eed new ones. there are a couple bolts to talk off. just go to autozone or get oem ones from a dealership. take off the nuts to ur valve cover and u will see them. they are obviously an "O". put new ones in and u should torque it to 7 or 8 pounds. get a difinitive ansewr. i dont know the exact # for s2k's

 

well, i changed plugs. no oil on new plugs so whatever that was got fixed. now i have another problem.

cylinder 1,2,3 misfire. from looking in the service manual, looks to be my coils or injectors.

 

Does the s2000 have use the internal resistor type sparkplugs that the K20 uses? This could be why you would have misfire....

 

internal resistor type? if i only knew what you were talking about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if ur spark plugs are wet, that means the o rings between ur head and valve cover are broken and un eed new ones. there are a couple bolts to talk off. just go to autozone or get oem ones from a dealership. take off the nuts to ur valve cover and u will see them. they are obviously an "O". put new ones in and u should torque it to 7 or 8 pounds. get a difinitive ansewr. i dont know the exact # for s2k's</TD></TR></TABLE>

its at honda right now geting the head replaced. They said my spark plug #2 seized.

 

how does a spark plug seizE?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">internal resistor type? if i only knew what you were talking about</TD></TR></TABLE>


Two of my buddies down here just got K-series swaps and in the RSX manual it says to only use a special type of spark plug, its some platinum plug that has an internal resistor (I guess its like a coil built into the plug itself). Anyway they said it won't run right, or at all, if these special plugs aren't used.

 

i really have no idea.

but here is a little bit of research i found. i made this just in case if honda was going to give me problems with no replacing anyhting.


Spark plug
http://www.nightrider.com/bike...k.htm

-Cylinder #4
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...37&hl=
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...84&hl=
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...88&hl=

-Cylinder #2 misfires,
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...37&hl=

-Misfiring 300-304
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...68347

Richard Piedra replied “I was surpised to read this. I JUST got my s2000 back from the Honda dealer in Woodland Hills with the EXACT same scenario. Just driving along, no problems when all of the sudden the motor began knocking and pinging. I made my move into the nearest gas station at which point the motor completely died.

After towing it to the dealer, I was told that the #1 spark plug had come loose and was responsible for the damage. Pieces had fallen inside the cylinder and destroyed the cylinder wall, piston, etc.

To make matters worse, the dealer told me they didn't think that they would cover the repair. They accused me of having someone unqualified replace the spark plug who "stripped" the threads therefore voiding the warranty. I angrily produced the receipt from the 15,000 mile service that had JUST been comleted by the dealership! If anyone stripped the threads, it was these guys.

After much argument, and a threatened lawsuit, they finally agreed to repair the car. The entire block, and cylinder head were replaced, along with the valvetrain. They had it for 21 days.

I now have the car back, and I was happy. Now that I've read that other people have had the SAME exact problem, it leads me to question the reliability of this car. Needless to say, I'm seriously considedring getting rid of the car. This is a difficult decision mind you, as this is probably the funnest car I've ever driven. “
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...t=100


-Barry in Wyoming mentioned that about 41 owners have experienced the "tap tap tap" or other short block catastrophic failure”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...=8051

-Matrix explains “Spark plug TSB 02-042. Get this done before you pick up the car as there COULD be serious consequences. It's quick and quite simple. Just involves changing out the plugs and torquing them down to new specs.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...2-042

-DoGMaN explains Update:

Called Honda Canada Customer service, spoke to a nice guy named Simon.

He took my VIN, did a check on it and came back with a YES, you are indeed eligable, this is not a recall, its and update. So you don't have to wait for the symptons to occur before you get this update.

Call your dealer and say you want this done, they will not know anything about it. Have them call the techline and ask them to reference Campaign #J87. This is the unlisted bulletin and will give them all the info they need to do the work. And as Marco said, kits are available...gettem while they're hot.
Quote linked from http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...71979

S2Kman mentioned “My dealer had done so at 15K and the plug came loose at 26K. When I asked them why it came loose after they supposedly tightened it they said it was common for spark plugs to come loose.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...st=50

bobby wrote “One day I was bored and thought that I would check my plugs just for the hell of it. The plugs (all of them) were so loose that I did not even need the ratchet to loosen them, just the socket and the extension. I could not belive it!”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...st=50


-xviper mentioned “it would seem that Honda is putting in the original plugs but only with higher torque. As I and others have commented before, this would appear to be Honda trying to get everyone into the dealers to have the new torque spec done and NOT necessarily to put new plugs in. New plugs may only be a way of compensating the customer for their time and to "overshadow" the fact that Honda made a big booboo in the original torque spec that has caused several engines to have already blown up.”
Quoted from link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...76205


-Red_s2k wrote “I would suggest being very careful! there is no rubber wire... these cars have a coil on plug design(as others have mentioned) and apparently the coil is fragile. My dealer had to replace one of mine when it developed a misfire(#2 cyl) due to a loose plug. At the time I also commented on this board that there seems to be alot of loose spark plugs...”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...29418

-krazik wrote “Turns out my number 2 spark plug was loose. It took almost no torque to get it out.
After that, the problem went away.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...29418

-CoralDoc wrote There have been several threads in the Under the Hood forum regarding loose spark plugs. I saw one of the threads started by Big Al and checked the plugs in my car. The #2 plug was finger tight! I advise EVERYONE to go out RIGHT NOW and check their plug tightness and report back here.

It sounds like the car runs just fine with very loose spark plugs, so there is no warning before a serious problem could occur. I bet that a lot of us have already caught the problem, but I wonder how many "smoking guns" are running around out there right now.
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...st=25

-Tugz_S2K mentioned “The spark plugs in the kit are basically the same plugs with exception to the material of the crush washers. The new plugs in the kit will use stainless steel washers.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...71979

-jschmidt wrote that “The TSB is to replace sparkplugs that may come loose and ruin your engine. Over 100 of us reported loose plugs when we checked. 3 or 4 lost an engine because of it.
Should you get it done. Yes.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...93&hl=

-Barry in Wyoming If the plugs become loose enough, they can fracture, spew porcelain inside the cylinder and eat the short block. Has it happened often? No, but it has happened here. Search on "spark plugs" to get a feel for the problem.
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...86&hl=


-Barry in Wyoming mentioned “The highest mileage at cylinder/piston failure was 76,000 miles (JoeS2K in Houston) and the lowest is mine at 650 miles.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...=8051

-Prolene mentioned “Your description sounds similar to AutoEX's. Either you have a major engine problem or you don't, obviously. I'd check the oil level and start it up again. If no problem sound, drive it but still have Honda check it out. If it still has that tapping sound, have it trailered to the Honda.”
Quoted from this link http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...57&hl=

-Rick Hesel mentioned “Since I started getting the 300-304 misfire CEL’s, I've discovered that quite a few other owners have this problem, and virtually all have found that Honda dealers are either incapable of or too lazy to identify the source of the problem and fix it.”
Quoted from this link: http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...68347


- Destiny2002
My S2000 warranty book says the Federal emissions warranty goes to 8 years / 80,000 miles.

It also says under Federal Emissions Warranty, "If an authorized Honda automobile dealer cannot repair your vehicle or honor your claim within a reasonable amount of time, contact Honda Assistance Customer Service for assistance, or you may write to: Manager, Vehicle Program and Compliance Division (6405J)... [Address given]"

I've had fuel injectors replaced at no charge beyond the 3/36 warranty on one of my Hondas years ago, because they qualify as an emissions component.

Now looking into the “Federal emissions warranty” leads to the “Lemon Law” (http://www.consumeraffairs.com/lemon...arranties.html)

-----------------------------------

-djcaseanova mentions
11-28-2004, 12:37 PM
No mods will void warranty’s except illegal catalytic converters/pipes and SOME chips.

Federal law prohibits a dealer from voiding your warranty just because you are using aftermarket speed equipment, with only two exceptions: the warranty can be voided if the aftermarket part causes damage, or adversely affects the emissions or the emissions system. In recent documents produced by the SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association ), a trade association representing specialty automotive parts manufacturers, the following quotes have been extracted:

"The vehicle manufacturer is not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket equipment is installed on the vehicle. This protection for consumers is the result of a parts self certification program developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA).

"Under the program, if a parts maker completes the EPA process of self-certifying its parts, the vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty even if the certified part has failed and is directly responsible for the warranty claim. In cases where such a failed aftermarket part is responsible for a warranty claim, the manufacturer must arrange a settlement with the part manufacturer, but the new vehicle warrant is not void under the law. "If the failure to honor a claim involves the new-vehicle warranty, and it appears that the manufacturer is improperly denying a claim, the incident should be reported to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). The FTC is responsible for monitoring compliance with the warranty law; the agency's telephone number is 202.326.3128.

Quote cited from http://www.superhonda.com/foru....html

--------------------------------------------------------------------


If the aftermarket parts causes damage then how about these people installing aftermarket intakes? Should they be experiencing the same type of problem I am experiencing?


For intake

Karim Nice explains, "The gas pedal in your car is connected to the throttle valve -- this is the valve that regulates how much air enters the engine. So the gas pedal is really the air pedal. When you step on the gas pedal, the throttle valve opens up more, letting in more air. The engine control unit (ECU, the computer that controls all of the electronic components on your engine) "sees" the throttle valve open and increases the fuel rate in anticipation of more air entering the engine. Sensors monitor the mass of air entering the engine. The ECU uses this information to fine-tune.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection.htm

----------------------------------------------


spark plugs ( Possible info )

Hank LaViers brings up a couple questions regarding the spark plug

Q: What is misfire?
A misfire occurs when the spark is not strong enough to ignite the cylinder charge at the proper moment of the power stroke. A weak spark can be due to a fouled plug, defective coil, to much gap for the compression ratio, incorrect timing, leaking plug wires, crossfiring plug wires, weak ignition module, etc.

Q: How important is proper spark plug installation torque?
Torque is the most critical part of installation. A spark plug can only transfer heat effectively when it is fully seated on the cylinder head. Under-torqued spark plugs will not seal and transfer heat effectively. Over-torquing can distort a spark plugs internal seals and cause poor heat transfer. A plug with poor heat transfer will allow cylinder temperatures to rise dramatically - eventually leading to detonation and plug or engine damage.
To ensure proper torque when installing spark plugs, clean the threads in the head and on the plug, use anti-seize sparingly, and don't guess - use a torque wrench.
Quoted from this link http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Ga...q.htm

IGNITION WIRES NOT PROPERLY FITTED:
No proper engagement of the spark plug, distributor, and coil terminals — the most common installation problem. This problem is not always immediately noticeable when using Magnecor Race Wires, because the high capacity conductors do not reduce spark energy like carbon conductors. In most cases, if an engine miss does become noticeable, and the ignition wires are determined to be the cause, the problem can be simply solved by ensuring connectors are properly engaged. Often, by looking into the spark plug end, a black substance will appear on a normally shiny terminal if it has not been engaging the spark plug top properly for some time, and a white substance (from arcing) will appear on the inside of the boot/connector if the boot/connector is about to fall off the spark plug. Fitting instructions are always included in Magnecor ignition wire set packages, together with additional instructions for engines with a history of ignition wire failures due to the difficulty of installation, other causes including moisture accumulating in deep spark plug holes and spark plug problems.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...t.htm


Howstuffworks explains, “hot spark plug tops will expand and lock into the terminals inside the wires' spark plug connectors.”
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...t.htm

SPARK PLUG CAUSED PROBLEMS:
Combustion gases leaking past spark plug gaskets and spark plug porcelain seals (and cracks) can cause wire boots and connectors to pop of spark plugs. Also, the opposite can occur if, over time, a small amount of corrosive combustion gas continues to leak from around the very top of a spark plug porcelain to cause a galvanic action, which binds the spark plug wire's metal terminal to the spark plug top, and if enough force is used, the cable can be wrenched out of the terminal in an attempt to remove the spark plug boot/connector.

Voltage at the spark plug can be anywhere from 40,000 to 100,000 volts.
Engine sensors?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection4.htm

Windscreen explains A loose spark plug can cause major damage in short order. This is because the spark plug acts a heat sink for the combustion chamber. Heat travels up the ceramic insulator, and then is conducted into the metal shell. The vast majority of this heat is then conducted through the spark plug base gasket, into the cylinder head metal on its way to the coolant. A bit of it goes through the threads.

What happens when the spark plug is loose? You don't have strong contact, or any contact in that critical shell/gasket/cylinder head interface. The spark plug cannot dissipate its heat load, and the ceramic insulator heats up to extreme temperatures. These temps promote detonation, or even pre-ignition if the insulator gets hot enough. Eventually, the ceramic will fail from the extreme heat.

My guess as to what happened on Greg's engine: The loose plugs caused the insulator to overheat and break (helped by lots of throttle/power/heat getting on the highway ). The ceramic bounced around in the engine a bit, scoring up the cylinder walls, with some small bits being trapped between the top ring land and cylinder wall. Eventually, a small piece probably found its way to the exaust valve, and got trapped between the valve and seat. It only takes a couple cycles to severly burn or melt a valve.

If the dealer pulls the head off, have them check for any burnt or melted exhaust valve faces. It would be interesting to try to understand what failed first in this engine.
Quoted from this site http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...st=25

Denotation = A condition in which, after the spark plug fires, some of the unburned air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber explodes spontaneously, set off only by the heat and pressure of air-fuel mixture that has already been ignited. Detonation, or "knock", greately increases the mechanical and thermal stresses on the engine.
Quoted from this site http://www.google.com/search?h...ation

 

i think i have fixed my problem. been driving for 60+ miles and no CEL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i have fixed my problem. been driving for 60+ miles and no CEL</TD></TR></TABLE>

coo

 

keep those coils and injectors for me. you never know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i have fixed my problem. been driving for 60+ miles and no CEL</TD></TR></TABLE>