Hey guys, I need some help with my new setup...As of right now I have a 94 usdm gsr swapped hatch with ITR cams, skunk2 cam gears, intake, stock header, and thermal catback 2 1/4" exhaust. I put a small crack where the drivers side motor mount connects to the block (crack is on the block) and I'm going to get it welded. I have to pull the motor out of the car to get it welded. Since money is tight, I'm thinking of doing the bottem end first, then save up another grand and do the head (Skunk2 stage II's and valvtrain) which will be in about 6 months. While I have the motor out, I'd like to rebuild the bottem end cuz the miles are getting kinda high (about 80k) and it's starting to burn oil. SO, for the bottem end I'm thinking of new bearings/seals/gaskets, shot-peen my current rods and get new pistons. I'm looking for 11.5-12:1 CR and I'm looking to spend around $300-400ish on pistons so I'm looking at Weisco (spelling?) or something OEM like PR3, etc. I need help in that area. Also, I was thinking of upgrading the chip or go with a vafc. I will be getting a good header (Hytech/SMSP/etc.) and then skunk2 IM. Also, for my exhaust I was thinking of going with a 2.5" collector, elliminating the cat and get a test pipe that cones down to 2 1/4". Will this be good for flow, or should i just get a header with 2 1/4 collector and 21/4 test pipe? I'm looking to spend about $1000 on the head and the least amount on the bottem end while making good power. Looking to break 12's.
So, Question 1:
Does the rod/piston/CR sound good to make good power while being reliable enough for a DD?
Question 2:
Should I go with a chip like Skunk2/Jun/etc. or go with a VAFC?
Question 3:
Will I need to upgrade anything else for my setup to work well? ex. injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, fuel regulator, rod bolts, head bolts, etc. anything like that?
<U>Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it! </U>


Modified by Bull_head360 at 1:22 PM 5/20/2005

 

Replace your bottom end with a b18b bottom, throw some ctr's in it, go with some good rods, get your bottom end blueprinted and blanced, replace studs bolts etc, keep your water pump, all the stuff you prolly know, then get hondata s200, **** chips. I have a b18b bottom end running .25 over civic type-r pistons, type-r rods, polished and balanced crank, built bottom end.. b17 head, 5 angle valve job, type-r valve springs, retainers, ctr cams. 98 type-r header, tanabe super medallion exhaust, cold air intake, itr im, aem fuel pressure regulator, tuned with hondata s200... itr s80 trans.... making 206 whp, 181 trq. havent ran at the track yet, replacing stock clutch and flywheel before i do.. i want a good run.. I beat a type-r hatch making a 13.17 pass so i'm hittin 12's..

ALL MOTOR HIGH COMPRESSION KICKIN ***

 

nice setup and numbers, but what is different from a VAFC and hondata? I'm not looking for a $1000 fuel managment system, just something that will be better than my stock ecu. how much did your hondata cost you? like $250?

 

no suggestions from the peanut gallery?? any input is appreciated guys

 

i would get some itr or jdm itr or even pr3 pistons for your setup when you do the rebuild OEM. I dont really care much for ctr pistons for daily driving. and i would go neither chip or vafc i would go with something like crome or neptune and get it tuned so you can get the most out of your motor

 

hmm...well if i went with hondata/crome/neptune so i would "get the most out of my motor," why wouldn't i get after market pistons like wesico or CP? are itr/pr3 pistons that worthy of a setup like mine? keep in mind that i'll be visiting redline about every other day and want this setup to last at least 50k miles+... And I found a great deal on some skunk2 stage II's...I know they recommend to upgrade your valvtrain and everything, and I do plan on doing that, but could I get away with running those cams on stock valvetrain now if I dont go past my stock redline? Thanks again for your guys' input


Modified by Bull_head360 at 11:20 PM 5/21/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88b16a2hf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace your bottom end with a b18b bottom, throw some ctr's in it, go with some good rods, get your bottom end blueprinted and blanced, replace studs bolts etc, keep your water pump, all the stuff you prolly know, then get hondata s200, **** chips. I have a b18b bottom end running .25 over civic type-r pistons, type-r rods, polished and balanced crank, built bottom end.. b17 head, 5 angle valve job, type-r valve springs, retainers, ctr cams. 98 type-r header, tanabe super medallion exhaust, cold air intake, itr im, aem fuel pressure regulator, tuned with hondata s200... itr s80 trans.... making 206 whp, 181 trq. havent ran at the track yet, replacing stock clutch and flywheel before i do.. i want a good run.. I beat a type-r hatch making a 13.17 pass so i'm hittin 12's..

ALL MOTOR HIGH COMPRESSION KICKIN ***</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf 181 tq?

anyways if money is tight, try out crome or uberdata.... also the crack, it it the mount area or is it from the cylinder?

 

If you went with neptune or crome your car can be tuned specificly for the mods that you have and it is also very cheap. oem pistons are worthy and good for daily driving im sure there is notinhg wrong with aftermarket pistons but i perfer oem. You can put the cams in with stock valvetrain but i would not reccomend it, if your gonna pull the motor apart why not spend a couple more bux and do it right. Its not worth it valve float is a bitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaIntegraR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wtf 181 tq?

anyways if money is tight, try out crome or uberdata.... also the crack, it it the mount area or is it from the cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i think he meant 141tq, plus after i re-read his statement, i think he's saying to go ls/vtec...no thanks and the crack is in the mount area...I'm gonna have the hole (where the mount bolt goes) welded up/filled and redrilled, then have the outside surface welded and shaved to look decent, using the same aluminum that the block is made of...
and i see your point vinasity, maybe i'll just buy them now and hold onto them once i can finish the head entirely