im looking to raise my compression soo i can run some Crower cams on my LS motor. anyways, my friends have been telling me to get my head milled. soo, i was told i could safely get .030 milled off and run a 1 or 2 layer HG and get at least 10:1 compression. anyone tell me how much i can safely take off and if i should clay the motor anyways to look at my clearances. thanks

Art

 

dont go past the factory wear marks. they are there to tell the mechanic how much you can safely remove from the stock head if milling is required.

 

where are the marks on the head????

 

Well, firstly measure the thickness of a HG. Put for example chewing-gum on the piston's valve relief, put back head on, with or without a HG (old one), tighten it (not too much), install your camshafts and timing belt, rotate the crankshaft, pull everthing apart and measure how thick is the chewing gum. This way you will see valve to piston clearance. Well, for intake valves clearance must be at least 0.045" and for exhaust valves 0.060". Second thing is piston to cylinder head clearance which has to be 0.045".
Anyway, you can have your piston's valve reliefs deepen!

 

You can safely mill .030" on a n LS head, however you will need adjustable cam gears to dial your cams back into 0,0. I believe you retard the cams back .5 degrees for every .010" milled.


As far as valve to piston clearance, I would not worry on stock milled head with stock Pistons on an LS. LS's have a lot of clearance in there, but I do suggest if you ever go with High Compression Pistons and large cams, you better clay.

milling your head .030" is only going to put you at 9.8:1 static compression. Do you plan on going with cams?

 

yea, im goin with some Crower Stg 1's because my car is a daily driver............also, will i be able to use a 1 layer HG with that headwork?? or would it be wise to just got with a OEM 3 layer???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superdragr45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, im goin with some Crower Stg 1's because my car is a daily driver............also, will i be able to use a 1 layer HG with that headwork?? or would it be wise to just got with a OEM 3 layer???</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO, you will notice no difference with those cams! I suggest 403's. They are a good cam and good for daily commuting too!

 

should i do springs and retainers with the 403's?? also, will i have enough compression with those cams to make decent power??

 

Yes you need Valvesprings, retainers, not really!

10:1 CP will be fine with 403's!

 

My LS head has been milled .090" and it is fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My LS head has been milled .090" and it is fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn what kinda cams are you running with your setup?

.090 is pretty extreme.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can safely mill .030" on a n LS head, however you will need adjustable cam gears to dial your cams back into 0,0. I believe you retard the cams back .5 degrees for every .010" milled.


As far as valve to piston clearance, I would not worry on stock milled head with stock Pistons on an LS. LS's have a lot of clearance in there, but I do suggest if you ever go with High Compression Pistons and large cams, you better clay.

milling your head .030" is only going to put you at 9.8:1 static compression. Do you plan on going with cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought milling your head will retard the cams...meaning you have to advance the cams...correct me if i'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My LS head has been milled .090" and it is fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn man, thats a lot. by u telling me that, i wanna say i could go up to almost .040 off and get close to 10:1 with a 3 layer...............anyone support this claim of mine??

 

also, can someone explain to me why i would have to retard my cams a .5 degree for every .010 milled off?? i havent heard that one................enlighten me.

 

milling your head wil bring your cam pulley closer to your crankpulley, that means that if you tighten your timing belt your timing would be off (for example half a tooth, so you'll need aftermarket pulley to set it correct).

if i'm totally talkin outta my *** tell me . i just tought of this with some old school logic thinkin

 

I am dialing in 62405A-2's. My car is not making the power it should though, so I am still working on it. Read this!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1254336

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superdragr45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, can someone explain to me why i would have to retard my cams a .5 degree for every .010 milled off?? i havent heard that one................enlighten me.</TD></TR></TABLE>


B/c when you mill you bring the head closer to the crank and the cams will actually be turning the cams sooner than they would have on an unmilled head; therefore meaning the cams are now advanced and need to be retarded back. The 1/2 (.5) degree retard per .010" of material removed is just a rule of thumb kind of thing that I have read and been told myself. So I may not be 100% accurate, however I should be close.

 

Rick, it's "retarded" not "advanced". Milling heads on B-series and H-series Hondas retards the timing.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rick, it's "retarded" not "advanced". Milling heads on B-series and H-series Hondas retards the timing.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>


Whoops, my bad!

I guess I am retarded

 

How much of a milling job would I need to get a 10.1:1 CR on a stock-layered head gasket?

 

what block, head and internals? Its kind of important to know.

 

i think you will be fine.On my old teg i had CP 9.8:1 comp pistons and had my head milled 0.055 with a 2 layer HG. had stock cams & cam gears. the only problem i had was with my timing belt. tensioner as tite as it would go, the belt was still just a little loose and made noise. besides that it ran grate. would recomend cam gears, because if i gave it to much timing, when i would hit the throutle it would be slow and brake up. so there is my 2cents

 

I would definitely get the crower 403's instead of the stage 1's. I have them on my jdm b18b(9.4-1 comp ratio) and they are great. There is a big debate on whether or not you need springs and retainers with these cams and imo its up to you. I have run them on stock valvetrain for almost 5 months now and have had no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoeB18-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what block, head and internals? Its kind of important to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>Stock block, LS head.