Welp, finally after 53K miles (~40K boosted) my right stock axle let go..kind of seized up is more like it. Luckily it still let me drive it home...
It was a weird feeling, I got on the eway, hit about 80mph, then everything started feeling kind of "loose" and weird, so I pulled over twice to inspect, and found nothing awry.

Took it home, inspected thoroughly again, everything seemed intact. So I pulled the wheels off, and started the car, put it in 1st gear, then observed. The left side was fine, but the right axle was wobbling slightly. I removed the right axle to find that the outer CV joint was seized..sucky poo!

Anyways, I guess I'm glad they lasted this long. I wish I could afford some nice replacements, but I'll have to put cheapo rebuilts on there for now..

 

When you say it felt loose and weird, what exactly do you mean?

I'm going to need an axle replacement soon, also. Autozone sells new ones for $100 (lifetime warranty).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say it felt loose and weird, what exactly do you mean?

I'm going to need an axle replacement soon, also. Autozone sells new ones for $100 (lifetime warranty).</TD></TR></TABLE>

by "loose and weird" I mean that my steering felt odd, the whole car felt just "loose", as opposed to tight and responsive. I thought at first that something in the suspension, or steering broke, or maybe a sway bar link, but it was just the axle...

In the past, when I've broken axles (on my DSMs), they just snap and the car doesn't move...so I guess I got lucky..

 

What are you going to replace it with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you going to replace it with? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will be using rebuilt units from a local parts store. The ITR units are $400 each at the dealer, the GSR units that will work in an ITR are $180 rebuilt at the dealer. No one has rebuilt ITR units locally, so I'll be using rebuilt GSR units.

My drag racing days with this car are over, so these should be fine for my daily driving requirements.

 

I recently had my tires changed out at Discount Tires, and afterwards, I noticed that "loose" feeling that you are talking about. I thought it was the tires at first, but it would feel like the car was almost weaving when accelerating(going straight). Then a couple of days ago, I noticed that my CV boot was torn. So maybe I've got the same problem as you do? I'll have to check it out...

Also, rather than getting rebuilt OEM ones, I'd check into NAPA or Autozone axles. They've got lifetime warranty, so if it breaks/seizes again, you've got a free replacement. That's the route I'm going, anyway...

 

That's interesting, I also just had new tires put on at Discount Tire...I know it's not directly related to anything. Indirectly it's probably the cause..I've been taking corners pretty aggressively since the new tires were installed, so I probably accelerated the eminent failure of the cv joint...

 

Often - not always, but often - a front axle failure is preceded by the axle nut loosening. You can do a visual inspection of the staking of the axle nut to see when it is starting to loosen. You can see it by removing the front wheels; if you can get the center caps off, or you don't have the center caps, then you can even see it without removing the wheels. This is EASY, even if you are not all that experienced mechanically. If you notice that the axle nut is loosening, you can tighten it up to help prevent the axle from breaking. (You will need a torque wrench that allows very high torque readings, e.g. 200+ ft-lbs.)

For complete instructions and photos, read this topic on NSXprime. The photos are about two thirds of the way down on page 1. Yes, it shows rear axle nuts for an NSX, and I'm talking about front axle nuts for an ITR, but they look exactly the same, including the staking.

 

Nope, my axle nuts are torqued, staked and paintmarked, I always paint mark all my fasteners so I can do a quick visual inspection.

 

Update, the "new" GSR axles are in, I measured the axle thickness to be ~.5mm thicker on the passenger side and a full 1mm thicker on the driver's side (for the R units), other than that, they are exactly the same.

 

are you running stock suspension? is your car lowered, if so, then thats the reason why.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you running stock suspension? is your car lowered, if so, then thats the reason why.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The suspension is not lowered.

 

link in your sig says z10 radius bars.. i wonder if that has anything to do with it..

&lt;-- 90k here.. they had their share of wheelhopping before/after boost, but overall i try to be easy on clutch during launch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">link in your sig says z10 radius bars.. i wonder if that has anything to do with it..

&lt;-- 90k here.. they had their share of wheelhopping before/after boost, but overall i try to be easy on clutch during launch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the Z10 bars help maintain proper driveline geometry, so if anything that should have helped.

I'm not surprised the axle failed, it's a wear item. 100+ drag launches probably didn't help either..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually the Z10 bars help maintain proper driveline geometry, so if anything that should have helped.

I'm not surprised the axle failed, it's a wear item. 100+ drag launches probably didn't help either.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i can't say 40-50k is unreasonable.. compared to how many manage to break them every few thousand. but i'm also suprised how mine managed to last this long, i've had tons of wheelhop..

 

Well, the replacements lasted 3 weeks. I broke the driver's side at the inner joint this morning. I didn't even beat on the car, and no launches at all. Must have been a defective joint.

 

wow~! that bloWs

 

Remanned axles suck. Pay the few extra bucks at Advance Auto (or autozone) and buy the brand new ones (ask them--they can get several brands). Same lifetime warranty but a much better axle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remanned axles suck. Pay the few extra bucks at Advance Auto (or autozone) and buy the brand new ones (ask them--they can get several brands). Same lifetime warranty but a much better axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Napa can get them too About $100/axle - new CV's, no core.

 

Werd.

I'll see if the parts store I'm dealing with can get new ones and I'll just pay the difference in price. Luckily my insurance company is paying the tow bill.

The moron tow truck driver dented the bottom of my intercooler with the chain when he unloaded the car off the flatbed...

 

Interesting you both had problems immediately after new tires. Did you check the mileage to be sure they did not take it for a joyride (if you let it out of your sight)?

 

I stood there and watched my car like a hawk, it never left my sight when the tires were put on. The tech even used a torque wrench on the lugs. They did a real nice job with the tire install.

I attribute my problem to crappy, cheap rebuilt axles. I ordered two new brand name axles today. I'll update this thread in a few weeks...