Should I worry about clipping
With the sub in my truck I'm running 30 more watts rms than it is rated for and it seems to do fine. Well I'm planning on running 2 Infinity 1230W subs which say 50-300 watts rms on Crutchfield.com well the amp I will be using puts out 500watts rms at 2 ohms and I would wire the subs for 2 ohms so it should be getting 250 watts to each sub will that be enough or will I run into problems with the amp clipping? Will this setup hit pretty hard? I have never used these subs just wondering how hard they hit and how they sound I'm more concerned with SQ which I have heard they are very good with but just wondering if they will be loud also as once in a while I do turn my music up.
There's really no way to tell untill you actually wire it up and listen to it... but moving from 1 sub to 2 subs you will definately hear a difference. I used to have a 2-sub setup with JL-W3's. I gave them to my friend to use and i bought a JBL 1500 12" sub. It still hits hard... but i miss the air that the dual set up was moving. I think this summer i'm going to move back to a dual sub set up probably with JL-W0's just to save on weight.
Since Infinity's site says 300watts rms for the sub not the 50-300 like Crutchfield it worries me the amp will clip but hopefully I will be ok with it.
It sounds to me like your concern wouldn't be the amp clipping, but the subs distorting or bottoming out due to lack of power to keep them under control. An amp clips when it is drawing more current than you cars 12V system can supply. During loud/long listening sessions your charging system can't keep up with the demands your amp places on it, it will clip. The problem with under powering a speaker is that your amp will have less control over your speaker during it's full range of motion. This causes the speaker to distort & bottom out (pop) @ high volumes. This isn't going to hurt your amps as much as your speakers.
Now as far as your specific issue. I don't see a problem there. You have to remember that in the car audio world most people (consumers) think higher power ratings mean better/louder speakers. This is not necessarily true. But Infinity is going to list the highest RMS power handling to entice those buyers. Now I've never used an infinity sub, but I think a reputable company like crutchfield has installed these subs enough times to know what will work. I have run subs rated for 300 watts max RMS with an amp rated @ 50 watts rms without any problems with the amps or the subs. The only question I have about your plan is are you going to be running your amp mono @ 2ohms? If so is it a class d amp? Remember when running an amp mono @ a 2ohm load, the amp is actually seeing a 1ohm load. This of course causes your amp to draw more current than your charging system can supply. Which of course could cause your amp to clip, even though the amp is stable for that load.
Now as far as your specific issue. I don't see a problem there. You have to remember that in the car audio world most people (consumers) think higher power ratings mean better/louder speakers. This is not necessarily true. But Infinity is going to list the highest RMS power handling to entice those buyers. Now I've never used an infinity sub, but I think a reputable company like crutchfield has installed these subs enough times to know what will work. I have run subs rated for 300 watts max RMS with an amp rated @ 50 watts rms without any problems with the amps or the subs. The only question I have about your plan is are you going to be running your amp mono @ 2ohms? If so is it a class d amp? Remember when running an amp mono @ a 2ohm load, the amp is actually seeing a 1ohm load. This of course causes your amp to draw more current than your charging system can supply. Which of course could cause your amp to clip, even though the amp is stable for that load.
Wait ok so if I run it at 2 ohms why will it see a 1 ohm load? I was planning to run it at 2 ohms yes. I have a smaller version of the amp in my truck a 330 watt rms one and it seems to run fine at 2 ohms I have been running it several months.
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It's a mono amp and is stable down to 2 ohms. I figure I will wire the 2 4 ohm subs so that it is at 2 ohms. In my truck I have a single sub but its a 4 ohm dual voice coil and I have it wired so it runs at 2 ohms and it works fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a mono amp and is stable down to 2 ohms. I figure I will wire the 2 4 ohm subs so that it is at 2 ohms. In my truck I have a single sub but its a 4 ohm dual voice coil and I have it wired so it runs at 2 ohms and it works fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>You should be fine, although I think you are under powered, and I belive it is better to be over powered, it will depend on how loud you play the sub bass, but as long as the amp is wired properly and you aren't entering any SPL contests, I don't see a problem, and as with any sub amp, a cap can't hurt.
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Ok thanks for the help. On my sub in my truck I am overpowering it and it works great but on here I didn't really want to buy a bigger amp at this time so am going to just underpower it. I wont enter compitions but I do sometimes turn my music up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait ok so if I run it at 2 ohms why will it see a 1 ohm load? I was planning to run it at 2 ohms yes. I have a smaller version of the amp in my truck a 330 watt rms one and it seems to run fine at 2 ohms I have been running it several months. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loccusst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you figure it will see a 1ohm load.... If the subs ar 4ohm and you wire them to the amp so that it sees a 2ohm load you are fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bridging a 2 chanel amp creates the same reduction in impedance (4ohm to 2ohm) as wiring 2 subs in parallel does. This is why when you read the specs on any given amp (for the most part) it wil say that it's rated for something like: 50 watts X 2 @ 4ohms ...100 watts X 2 @ 2ohms...200 watts X 1 @ 4ohms. I'm not saying that all 2 channel amps cant handle a mono 2ohm load. I'm just saying that when bridging a 2 channel amp to run a 2ohm load, the amp is actually being presented with a 1ohm load.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Loccusst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you figure it will see a 1ohm load.... If the subs ar 4ohm and you wire them to the amp so that it sees a 2ohm load you are fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bridging a 2 chanel amp creates the same reduction in impedance (4ohm to 2ohm) as wiring 2 subs in parallel does. This is why when you read the specs on any given amp (for the most part) it wil say that it's rated for something like: 50 watts X 2 @ 4ohms ...100 watts X 2 @ 2ohms...200 watts X 1 @ 4ohms. I'm not saying that all 2 channel amps cant handle a mono 2ohm load. I'm just saying that when bridging a 2 channel amp to run a 2ohm load, the amp is actually being presented with a 1ohm load.
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